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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d..._Pro_Power.jpg |
Thanks guys, I'm 99.99% certain that I don't have a crank trigger, and the wires coming from that "black spirally thingee" go somewhere. I'll be in the garage on the weekend to confirm. I was "getting on it' fairly hard, so I may have hit the rev limiter, but I plan to check it out in more detail this weekend.
The photos really help. Gracias. |
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The problem here is that MSD is supposed to deliver the distributors with the mag pickup properly aligned so as to produce a spark when the rotor point is perfectly aligned with the corresponding post in the distributor cap. In my case and probably in some others the rotor point and the post in the cap do not align when the spark jumps and that created some disturbing hesitation at full advance, because as I have seen while checking the problem and the spark, the spark jumps at the leading edge of the rotor point at idle but changes to the trailing edge when rpm rises. Anyway, the only thing you can do without having to purchase the MSD rotor phasing kit (they make it because some problems with rotor phasing DO ocurr) is to move the magnetic pickup in the opposite direction of the position of the rotor towards the cap post. You have to remove the glue MSD puts between the mag pickup and the distributor housing and you can move the pickup slightly back and forth, which is what I did and solved the problem. Now the point and post aligh perfectly and the hesitation is gone. You can check that also with the timing light, as the timing will get erratic at full advance. If you have crank trigger the problem is solved just by moving the trigger in relation to the magnet and /or rotating the distributor. So checking the distributor phasing with a cut up cap is not to be excluded if you have some hesitation problems, which also show up if under your timing light the mark on the crank pulley is not absolute steady at full advance. |
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http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...g6revlimit.jpg |
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Assuming I get the time, I'm going to check the rotor phasing and the rev limiter. BTW, Patrick thanks for photo. I do remember the back side of the Digital 6, but your pic makes it crystal clear. Now, I just need to contort myself under the dash to see what it's set at. There can be a dozen reasons why it did what it did and one of them could the fact that I ran out of gas two weekends ago and the fuel pump may have sucked up something, but that's hard to believe with a relatively new tank and car. |
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"Yes, crystal clear." So you're telling me I have a crank trigger system right? :LOL: |
Your crank triger is right next to your Nitrous Oxide bottle (which is probably behind the chair in your office).
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Who's on first?
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Why does a high performance car owner want a "crank trigger" system? What are the benefits and tradeoffs?
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Timing is rock steady and very accurate with a crank trigger since it eliminates the timing chain, camshaft, and distributor. I can also run 2 ignitions and switch between them, one off the crank and 1 off the distributor. The one off the crank is for max power and the 1 off the distributor has the timing retarded to take out a bunch of power (not really applicable for the street). Trade off is the expense. |
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Partick, you sound like one my buddies who works on everything cars. You only need to add the part about "Don't believe everything you read and stop reading." Edit: I left out the swear words. |
This is a Crank Trigger, absolutely dead nuts accurate. It does not provide for any advancing of the ignition timing based upon RPM. It fires at the same instant each time. To change when it fires with relation to crank rotation the "Pickup" is moved in a slot on its mount to a slightly different location around the perimeter of the Trigger Wheel (just a few degrees).
http://www.msdignition.com/info.aspx...=32&taxid2=447 |
I've been plagued with a misfire since first getting the car on the road nearly two years ago and I've just got round to checking the phasing. I was putting it off because it meant butchering a distributor cap. But now, having checked it, I can see that the spark is firing way past the terminal post.
I'm irritated that MSD have apparently assembled the distributor wrongly, but I'm also pleased that I have found the cause of the misfire at long last. I suppose I now need to order one of their adjustable rotors. They should really supply these free of charge given that it is needed to rectify their error. :mad: I marked the position of the distributor before pulling it out, but forgot to note the position of the rotor. :o |
You can not imagine how many times I removed the Webers and the jets and the MSD box and the cables and the alternator and I do not want to go on.
In the end it was that damn rotor in the MSD distributor not being aligned correctly. Misses at max advance and at cruising speed for several months until I did the cut-up-the-cap thing and found that the phasing was wrong. The problem is that when they fit the gear at the factory it can be just a matter of a few degrees wrongly pinned to the shaft and the phasing is off. So they should just supply an adjustable rotor if they can't do it precisely. The same thing applies when you change the gear. Depending the location you are disturbing the phasing in relation to the reluctor. I had to replace the iron gear for a steel gear because I have a hyd roller cam and that also has made the phasing to be off. So if you start playing with those things an adjustable rotor is probably a must. |
I can't see the gear relationship being a problem, it's the relationship between the reluctor wheel (at the trigger point) and the rotor.
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