Thanks, Arno, yes both are beautiful!

I returned Bill's leveller (good luck with that radiator support!) and did a little work on the engine bay. It's starting to look like a real car!



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I also installed the Kirkham shifter:



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Don't forget oil. And check the rocker to vc clearance.

Looks fantabulous! Cant wait to hear the small block stroker! That is going to be a really fun engine.

Finished the plumbing and most of the engine wiring today. Still need a couple of fittings for the oil temp sensor as the pan 1/2 npt bung is right next to the frame. I have to extend the coil connections as my coil is on the driver's side of the engine. I also installed the drive shaft today. I wish I would have realized earlier that the tranny tunnel is held in place with 10 screws. I had to remove it to get the drive shaft through the hoop and past the differential flange in order to insert the yoke in the tranny. Slid right into place, but installing the fours bolts and locknuts was a royal pain. All done now so I can put fluid in the tranny and rear end. Next comes sorting out the exhaust. With my dropped driver side footbox, an undercar exhaust is almost impossible. However, I'm determined and Dr. Gas is on my side! Here's a couple of pics:

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Then I put the hood back on. It attaches with two allen head 5/16 bolts and there is no adjustment. Apparently, they shim it in the proper location and then weld on the brackets and hinges.

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Niiiiice Mark!

Dang that looks sweet!

So, I got the lower hose in, found that a 1/8 inch npt extension is too small for the oil temp gauge and now have to go find a 1/4 inch npt (the only thing keeping me from adding oil). Clearanced the Quicktime engine plate for the starter and got it installed and wired. I think I have figured out how to install the undercar exhaust using Dr. Gas oval 3" tubes and mufflers and I'm psyched! This is the 21st car I've built and a real keeper. If you are on the fence about a Kirkham, jump over and go for it!!!! First start in two weeks!

I got the oil temp sensor installed and was changing the valve cover gasket to an extra thick 1/4" gasket. When I had the valve cover off, I noticed that the exhaust rockers on 2, 4, 5, and 7 are clearanced. This may help explain why there didn't seem to be any interference issues with the new valve covers. I guess the thick gasket will be extra security. I added engine oil and will try to get the tranny filled today before I wrap it up:

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Okay, all fluids topped up, except brake/clutch. Fabbed up the fuel line from a piece of 3/8" brake line I bought from Pep Boys and a 5/8-18 flair (existing on the brake line) to -6AN adapter on one end and 3/8 hard line to -6AN on the other from Summit:

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So, tomorrow while Irene is blowing, I'll be in the garage blowing hydraulic fluid through my brake and clutch lines!

Fantastic Mark! I really enjoy following your progress, just like Chris's car (restocreatin).

Are you going to drive it/get it tittled and everything before paint or is this going to the body shop when it is running?

Thanks, Arno! First start should be in the first two weeks of September, then to titling. I'll do the body prep and paint in the spring. How's your engine coming along?

Really nice work...you're almost there. ;)

Looks great

Bernie

Lookin' good!

We demand updates Mark! Pictures, and videos will suffice :)

Well, I'm at a standstil. Waiting on Dr. Gas to get me some oval exhaust pipes. I think I've figured out how to get an undercar exhaust. I've installed the headerrs and procured the mufflers, just waiting for a couple of transitions and bends and a good days work will have me ready for first start.

In the mean time, I went to the Simeone museum yesterday for the Shelby day. It was great! Chuck Cantwell spoke about his days at Shelby and some of the other characters that he worked with (never knew they called Ken Miles "Sidebite" because he was English and spoke out the side of his mouth!). They also started the Daytona Coupe and GT40 Mk4. Great day! Here are some pics of the Cobras. I love this blue on the 427 street car:

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New pics of mine coming up next!

DR. Gas and my undercar exhaust

I finally received my oval exhaust pipes from Dr. Gas. Originally quoted a week, it took almost five, however, they didn't charge my card until they shipped and they are high quality and worth the wait. 16 ga, mandral bent, and aluminumized. They really produce a great product and I now know why they are so backed up!

Anyway, this is the last step before first start and I might even get some driving in before the cold weather. Here are the pieces along with the Flowmaster mufflers:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...d/c553c5c4.jpg

These are 2 1/2" pipes pressed to 1 3/4" in order to clear my dropped footbox. If I was racing this car, 3" would have been better, but I don't have the room. The extra piece of 3' oval pipe is to cut up and use to fit the exhaust. Here is where the mufflers will fit (I will need to slightly clearance the brace the originally intended sidepipes hang from on the sides):

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...d/0e7654ec.jpg

Turns out the 4" frame on my car is actually 3.6" which I guess is the equivalent when ordered in stainless. The oval pipes and 3" deep Flowmaster will allow me to keep everything above or even with the bottom of the frame tubes for the best ground clearance possible. Here are some side views of the oval pipe:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...d/36bcf979.jpg

This one will come out just in front of the rear tires:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...d/6d2ec11c.jpg

Undercar exhaust on a Kirkham with a dropped footbox is almost impossible, but I love a challenge. Hopefully, this wil give you some ideas if you want an undercar exhaust, but fear ground clearance issues.

Oh rats, the wife just came home and caught me with exhaust pipes in the kitchen!

looking good Mark!

These are some neat pipes Mark! Lookong good. Are you going to weld these up? How does the headers connect to these pipes?

Arnaud, I got a new blade for the chop saw and several bends. I'll fit it up, cut pieces as required, tack, test, and then butt weld the pipes together, then cut the tail pipe to fit and weld it to muffler outlets. It connects to the headers with a three bolt ball flange. This is important as the connecting flange is separate from the exhaust pipe allowing me to rotate the collector as required to clear the main tubes. I'll post pictures as I go.