Replacing the rear main seal on side oiler

steve meltzer · #1 (**permalink**) 06-05-2018, 04:53 PM

WOW! that's nearly as difficult as pulling the motor! I too, wonder if it's possible to get it perfectly dry. thanx again for your help. steve

patrickt · #2 (**permalink**) 06-05-2018, 05:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

I too, wonder if it's possible to get it perfectly dry....

Another option: Engine Diapers; Keep Accidents in the Diaper, not on the Track!

steve meltzer · #3 (**permalink**) 06-05-2018, 07:10 PM

Patrick, i knew i could count on you for an "outside the box", innovative thought on the matter! s

jkg2101 · #4 (**permalink**) 06-05-2018, 08:09 PM

It's a lot easier than pulling the motor! I have found this car fairly easy to work on because there's not a lot to them and because there is plenty of room around the engine. Much easier to pull the cobra trans than a mid year corvette trans. Much easier to work on the engine than a big block mustang with those darn shock towers.

The FE engines are a nice design in so many ways. Shaft rockers. Skirted block. I don't like the pushrods that go through the intake. And I don't like how the rear seal leaks. But I think the seal problem is more related to imperfect aftermarket parts.

steve meltzer · #5 (**permalink**) 06-05-2018, 10:24 PM

yes, most things on the car are easy, but I can't see how you can remove an Aviad pan without moving the motor, as the Kirkham X-piece appears to preclude the pan removal.
do you have an Aviad pan, and somewhere in your description you say "when the engine is out of the car....", but, it never comes out. can you clarify that (about 1/3 way through your excellent description). thanx again. s