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Brake problem with 99 Honda Accord
Having a problem with the rear disc brakes either not coming on fully or freezing up. Both rear rotors have a lot of ridges with rust, inside side seems to be worse (haven't taken it fully apart yet) Plenty of pad left, its not like metal to metal with gooves, just the opposite with ridges. Car has 90K miles on it. Never heard of having to adjust front to rear pressure, if its even possible. Would seem odd that both calipers have frozen up. How can you tell if a caliper has frozen up?
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There is not supposed to be ridges in the rotors.
May I suggest you disassemble the rear brakes and see if the pistons can be moved. Typically, there is around .002 to .004 inches of space between the pad and the surface as long as the square cut seal is working properly. When rust/corrosion prevents the piston to return, the pad rides on the surface until it wears down. Just a suggestion. :D |
OK if I disassemble the brakes (remove the pads) and step on the brake is there a possibility of pushing the piston right out of the caliper? Don't know, never tried it before, I know you can do it with a hydraulic slave cylinder though.
I found out the hard way that the pistons on Hondas won't push back in with a C-clamp. There is a slot in the piston and you have to screw it back in, which baffles me. I can't figure out how that works and still operate under hydraulic pressure.... |
Sounds like the pads were changed after the damage was done to the rotors, usually when a rotor is sticking the pad on the inside will show more ware. Fortunately the rotors for a Honda are really cheap, they really are not meant to be turned, it's cheaper to buy new ones. its best to just buy loaded calipers and new rotors.
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True007,
The pistons are pushed back in with a Brake Caliper tool. Autozone loans them for a $35 deposit. You get it back when you return the tool undamaged. My Mustang uses the same tool on the rears. When they press out, they rotate/unthread. This tool works like a reverse wheel puller. You tighten it down, then turn the bolt to screw it in. Then retighten screw in some more, repeat until done. You have to remember that just a couple of pumps on the pedal will not set the rear brakes. The fronts will set well before the rears. I agree with the thought of the pads being changed after the damage was done to the rotors. As far as the calipers freezing, if they are frozen (being the threaded kind, you can work them free, but I would not want to trust it. I would change them. I am changing pads and rotors this weekend on the Mustang. Edit: Did not mean to hit submit yet. Added more. |
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