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Within the normal range of alternators (50-100 amps or so) there should be no problem as long as the wiring matches up. All the VR does is cut the alternator in and out of the circuit as needed to maintain the voltage and the battery charging. The rating of the alternator only means that it can pump out more amps to feed stuff without having the voltage pulled down.
When you're powering a flashlight, it doesn't matter whether you do it from two D cells or a whole bank of Optimas. When you start to get into truck systems and the overpowered stuff in boom cars, it's different. But the stock stuff all works pretty much the same way and to the same limits. |
One Other Point...
Your C3SZ-10316-A was spec'd by Ford at 55 amps and footnoted that it was not to be used in solid state ignitions. I have read posts in other forums that voltage regulators not designed for SS ignitions, like an MSD unit for example, can cause problems with them. Personally, I wouldn't use theC3SZ-10316-A on a car with an MSD box (or similar CD system).:cool:
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We like the MOTORCRAFT Part # GR540B -FOAZ10316A, FOPZ10316A.
If the situation calls for it we will put on a vintage top , but this is a rock solid unit - should be about $29 |
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I have used the 65 Autolite regulator, a 42 amp early 64 (1st series) OEM Niece alternator from a 63 or 64 Mercury Montclair and MSD 6T and they have worked flawlessly for 20 years.
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Maybe the Anilog Boxes aren't affected but my guess is the opening an closing of the relays within the Voltage Regulator could become pitted (which they do) and then create elecrical Noise which might cause issues for the MSD box in some situations
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http://www.msdignition.com/uploadedI.../trouble-s.gif |
I had that happen on a 1964 Mini Cooper S (fun car) that I had a long time ago. It had a generator, maybe THAT was of some concern (?)
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Voltage regulator connection question
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from the ERA website the diagram show the "I" terminal going to the ignition light. Is this a positive or a negative feed? I tried to wire it directly to he light and I can't get the light to come on. I had the light running to the IGN key switch and it worked but now I can't get it to light up. I looks like it should be the ground feed to the light, right? Is the 15ohm shunt needed? |
The I terminal is powered through the light whenever the ignition switch is on. In the original Ford circuit, there was also a shunt around the bulb to allow a bit more current, but we've found that the shunt is not necessary if you rev the engine over 1000 rpm at startup.
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dlotz -- I know there's a thread on the ERA forum here discussing the circuit, how the small charge through the filament excites the VR, etc. as I specifically remember photocopying the diagrams from my automotive textbooks that were used in the classes I took on the stuff way back in the 1970's and quipped that I must have been asleep when we went over it.:rolleyes: I'm sure I posted them here along with the explanatory text from the manuals. It's really a very simple, basic circuit but if the dang filament in the bulb is broken, and you don't have a shunt, you'll never get your charging system up and running.
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http://www.radioshack.com/product/in...ductId=2062310 |
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