Correct tonneau stud pattern for 427 cobra

[computerworks]

Originally Posted by Jim Maxwell

Stuart, I will work on it this weekend. Jim

Thanks, Jim...maybe we could get a mutual buddy to do a CAD drawing of the finished product.

I have done several "take-off" templates from orig cars, and the two biggest problems with paper templates are:

• a reliable datum point that can be used as a reference when trying to transfer the template to another car.
  
• dealing with the complex curves of the rear deck when trying to apply data points from a 2-D source.

[Dan Case]

Laying a 45ish year old cover out to make a pattern won't work either. I have no idea how a cover fit in 1963-4 but a 1963-4 made cover takes some stretching (in nice warm bright sunlight helps) to install now.

Circa 1986 I bought a replacement Robins brand cover kit for CSX2310. The cover kit included all the snap hardware loose. I had to take the car and kit to an automotive upholstery shop to have the snaps installed to match the car. When new that cover was real easy to install. Last spring on the Battleground Tour it was very difficult during cool rainy weather to stretch it enough to get all the snaps over studs. The 1986 replacement cover is now just as hard to install as a cover supplied by AC Cars in 1963-64.


I think Jim has CSX2401 in a restoration process right now. If the studs are out of the skin maybe the best approach would be to start at the rear middle and measure the center to center spacing of each stud hole, angle off center line, and distance from the rear view mirror stem?????

[A-Snake]

With the rear view mirror having different mounting locations on cars perhaps the snap that is location in the front cowl in the horizonal position would be a better reference point. It should be the midpoint of the top of the dash area.

There are a total of 16 lift-a-dot studs used for the softtop. An addtional four are needed in the front cowl for a tonneau plus the one snap I mentioned above.

Four of the lift-a-dot studs on the rear cowl are in a straight line. The rear edge of the cockpit opening at that point is also straight so these should be easy to locate. The centers of these four studs are 13 3/8" from the cockpit edge. The center to center of these same 4 studs are 8" apart. (Total span 24") To check there location, measure from the horizonal snap on the front cowl to the most outboard of the four studs mentioned and it should be 49 1/4". If the two outboard measurements are the same, you can then use the 8" spacing between them.

Have to run right now but I will post later on locating the remaining studs and some pictures for reference.

More later

[A-Snake]

I'm not an artist so I hope this makes sense.

The reference point along the line at the bottom is the horizontal snap that screws into the front edge of cowl over the dash. (Just below mirror)

The horizontal line above that is the edge of the rear cowl. (Back of cockpit)

There is a straight line of four lift-a-dots located 13 7/8" behind the edge of the rear cowl as mention in my last post. The back of the cowl at this point is a straight edge. Again the two outboard studs of these four are 49 1/4" from the front snap.

Now we will reference the next two Lift-a-dot studs. One on either side of the four in line studs. These next studs are 6 9/16” away (center to center) from the stud next to it. These studs are 50 3/8" from the front snap. We can't give a reference for these two studs from the back of the cockpit as that line now starts to curve.

Belore we go on to the "next row" of studs, are there questions? There should be as this is getting confusing to me

[ERA Chas]

It strains credibility that the cars had precisely and consistently installed studs, one to the other.

We know all the stories, left side of nose different than right, five or more different flair designs, paint colors according to what was on the shelf that day, stripes by eyeball, hood rivets the same way...on and on. These are wonderful handmade creations with everything that implies.

I'd just do an installation that was reasonably close to the configuration and make sure the top/cover was nicely taut with a minimum of wrinkles. That's what I did on my fakey car.

[A-Snake]

Fair enough ERA Chas, I'll end the attempt to describe the stud layout.

[FatBoy]

Originally Posted by A-Snake

Fair enough ERA Chas, I'll end the attempt to describe the stud layout.

A-Snake,
Please don't stop just because of one person.There are others, including me, who want the full set of "original" measurements.
I for one appreciate the time and effort you are giving.
Regards,
Paul