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Original Style Frame Tube ?
Hey all
Thought you scratch builders may know the answer to this. What size or sizes of steel tube are used to make an original style 427 chassis? Is there or has there been a list compilied? I know there would be 4" round tube of course for the main frame rails but what about the rest. Larry |
I'm sure you'll get some quick answers but I think Cobra Restorers sells a blueprint of the original frame....
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That print leaves a lot of numbers out. You can't build an accurate car from the information there. I've been lucky enough that I have verified alot of information and measurements off real ones. Main frame tubes were 4" dia 0.095" wall originally, the new version use .120" wall for a lot less frame flex. The 3/4" square and round tubes that make up the birdcage etc are mostly around .055 to .062 wall.
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Nick is "the man" so listen to him...he knows the deal and can help you out.
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Larry knows me, I've been teasing him with some of my stuff ;-)
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He's got to buy then Nick!!!
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Yeah, he teases me a lot too!
I had read of some problems with the CR plans. A guy at work was asking me today about what sizes of tube were used in a 427 frame. I figured you guys would know. Larry |
Nick,
One of these days you need to get around to compiling a "correct" set of plans and offering them for sale. I know I struggled with the "cut down" version I have and without your and other's help, I would have never gotten where I am now. I'll trade you for some drawings of the suspension pieces.... which aren't on the Cobra Restorer's drawings, for anyone who doesn't know. Putting the aluminum and other pieces on the car now, punch the dash and mount the guages, and I'll be able to build and install the motor. Go ahead and pull the trigger Larry, you know you want to.....;) Bob |
I'm just excited to see a little activity on the Scratch Builders Forum.
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Quote:
The subject of what steel to use in a frame came up today at work when I was asked what the frame was made of. Thanks Nick for the answer. Larry |
Just joined a little while ago and will probably be doing most of my posting here... getting ready to start a build and will need alot of pointing in the right direction. Oh and I should also say that the build I'm doing is a slightly smaller version, but will be almost as real as the 1:1... a 1/8th scale, fully scratchbuilt, multi-media Cobra.It won't run, but it will have functional suspension and steering, full wiring and plumbing and a ton of detail, as well. I put a post with a link in the introductions forum to a Ferrari I started back in December of 08, to give an idea of the level the Cobra will be built at. I have not worked on the Ferrari since springtime and decided to shelve it while I pursue this Cobra build. I will need specs and such and from what I've read so far, it's available, but not easy to come by, so I hope I can get a little help without making anybody mad. Some of your build pictures will help me too, so that may be my best source for now... I'll keep everybody posted, I'm still collecting materials and reference...
Garey |
Hey Nick!
Let's compile a set of new plans on a CD and sell them to the highest bidder ;-) Dom |
You mean a complete correct set you can actually build a car from with vendors for the parts you can't make?
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You know the "old" saying- "If you build it, they will come" Where do I place my order? ;) Bob |
I just saw a photo of the original 289 car frame in the new Shelby cars book... and shuddered. My stars, I've built kites with a more substantial frame!
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With the benefit of hindsight which we are all blessed with but seldom use, applying the extra framework & tubing that the Daytona & or Flip Top had in their respective chassis makes the original two 3.00" dia tube setup into a much stiffer platform on which to build the car. Knowing this now, I often wonder if the change to larger dia tube used in the later 427 chassis was really necessary, or just the easy way out at the time..yep, I know the coil spring/w/bone helped to, but being a bit of a Daytona Coupe fan, these cars made a huge leap over the roadster which is often credited to the body shape, but the extra chassis stiffness also played a large part in this. Race track speed comes from the whole package, not just from one area.
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The thicker walled tubing used to make the chassis now would make it somewhat stronger although a little heavier. I would like to know more about what those changes were for the Daytona though.
Larry |
The frame was effectively backboned to stiffen it up, made a world of difference
http://home.comcast.net/~chuckcobra/...ex_daytona.htm That is a scarey lookin pic of the 289 chassis in the new book isn't it! |
Yeah, I see those. I probably wouldn't want to do any changes that would change the appearence of the cockpit though. I'm too into originality.
Larry |
build!
3 Peaks had the better "business plan", more sustainability:
Build frames and they will come! How much does casting the rear upright cost in the US? This could be one part I make here in South-Africa. Dom |
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