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Anybody ever build without doors?
Has anyone ever built one without functioning doors? The frame would be super strong like a big old box then instead of two subframes with the main frame rails having to do most of the work to tie the front and rear together.
It seems that you could make a steering wheel that disconnected so you could squeeze in without needing doors? Thank you in advance. |
Hey Boyles.
Spec racers are built that way. I wouldn't recomend building a roadcar that you 'care' about like that, because you'll tear it up getting in and out Duke-style!! These things are tough enough to get in with the standard door as is. Mike. |
Why not do it?
I can assure you that you save a lot of time designing the door hinges and mounts (unless you build an existing kit). |
i don't think the fiberglass body is going to add much to rigidity. getting in and out of mine without using the doors entails stepping on the seat, easy to do since the jbl cockpit is roomy but your feet better be clean or dry.
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Z-Link Cobra is building an EM without functioning doors. He will have to step on the seat, but it looks good.
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This may sound Dumb but if you want to run this on the street Do you need to have Door's that function to get an inspecation sticker or can you get around that
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"Do you need to have Door's that function"
The Super 7 doesn't have doors, does it? Nor does a KTM X-Bow and other motorbike/car hybrids. So I guess yo can get away with it (legally). The doors won't add much strength as such, but you can place side impact framework behind them which will add to chassis stiffness. |
Yes Z-linkCobra on the Everett Morrison group has pics. However, he is building a drag car.
Ralphy |
The more I've thought about it, maybe you keep the doors operational, so you don't scratch things up getting in & out, but put the steel going across the door opening about half way up, so you can climb over it, but high enough to gain the strength advantage. Seems like it would really add some strength?
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Just try to work under the dash or on the brake pedal....:rolleyes:
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Or try to get in with the top on :-)
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Built 2 that way 3M clear gard the top of the door is the tickit. Huge difference in chassis rigidity It will allow you to lighten the frame on the end that needs it
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I have side bars welded across my door openings - tied into the roll bar. No problem when I don't use the top, but takes some contortionist moves to get in with the top up.
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...756_Small_.JPG http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ium/Cage22.JPG I can climb in here with the top up - don't use the top much, so it has not been a big issue. Had a friend ride with me in the rain at a SAAC Convention - he was a bit huskier than I am - had to unlatch the top and fold it back to get him in, then re-latch it once he was seated. I think having the side bars in my car has helped to avoid any side pipe burns - in fifteen years and countless rides, no one has ever burnt a calf on my pipes. The bars make getting out such a process that you have to extend your leg out quite a bit to exit the car. I think the welded cage provides much more strength than glassed-in doors would ever do. Jeff |
3 Attachment(s)
Thought you'd like to see some photo's of KMP259 doors.....
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Nice pictures both of you. The more the better. I am new at this, Bill E - you said that tying the front and rear together @ the doors would allow you to take weight out of the end that needs it. I am assuming you are talking about the front? How and where can you lighten things up front by putting framing at the doors? Thank you in advance.
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