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Quote:
Stainless 2"x2"x11ga - 8ft length = $147.20 Mild steel 2"x2"x11ga - 8ft length = $40.48 So, I feel it would be safe to assume about 3 - 4 times the cost to build in stainless just in materials. If anyone has some better numbers, let us know. --Mark |
I wonder where Kirkham is getting their DOM stainless pipe? Sure prefer the look and authenticity of a round tube frame!
Thanks for the comparison. That pretty much answers my question. Overall, it would probably add a couple hundred dollars to the frame price. Not a bad deal at all for the look you'd get. The only problem would be getting the proper grade for this type of construction. BTW, what IS the proper grade for this project? 316? Also, if using stainless for a frame, would you use standard stainless rod or is there a specialty stainless wire with more tensile strength. A very long time ago somebody told me the stainless rod I was using for a project was real soft and wouldn't hold up to stress well. Any input? Thanks, Bob |
Thanks for the info. If I learn how to add pics I will...HELP! Also any A-Arm prints would be helpful. I will upload as soon as I figure it out. I also think we need a spot for guys who like to weld and get dirty. It feels awesome at the end of the day to see what you have created.
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Re: Who is CRUZER5531
[quote]Originally posted by Alex Evonosky
[b]I did receive a private message from Vic Cruzer5531 requesting information on frame deninsions. I tried to reply but he is not set up to receive replies? Alex ..sent a couple PM regards to frame dimension.Did you receive? Thanks, Al |
Hey Bob, 304 will be fine for strength and is good for availability. If you are welding stainless, weld with the same alloy or one higher, 308 on 304, 316 on 308 etc. Stainless and its welds are plenty strong enough. It is tough on cutting tools but welds like a dream. I was thinking of the next one in stainless then I could drive it in the salt...........with a good heater and studded snows!
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Thanks for the input. Now if I can just find a source for the steel. I've searched the internet and having a hard time finding anyone, especially local to me.
If and when I get serious about this, I will probably find plenty of stuff out there. Just need to start somewhere- a good set of plans would probably help! :)- Thanks again, Bob |
Stainless Steel (Why)
To me, I see no practical reason to use SS for the frame. I feel the .120 tubing with the cross members places correctly is plenty strong.
What am I missing? Alex |
Re: Stainless Steel (Why)
Quote:
--Mark |
I guess I thought I was the only one who just plain likes the look and unique detail that a stainless frame would give me. However, since Kirkham offers a stainless frame and I found out the CER is also building/has built stainless frames for their cars, I guess I'm not as unique after all.
I still think it is a very cool look, though. And if I can do it for a reasonable cost, why not? Imagine a polished, unpainted, corrosion proof frame. Heck, you could even wax it for car shows and cruise ins! :) Now to find some plans, and a steel supplier!- Bob |
Hi Bob- yarde for the stainless, I'm guessing you want the 4"x1/8" seamless for a 427 chassis. Blueprints are readily available for $200 from Cobra Restorers but that's just a piece of the puzzle on numbers. Go for it!
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I'm not sure but I think that is the wrong grade of stainless. From what I'm gleaning, 304L is the grade I need. The yarde site only shows 304S as far as I can tell. Surprisingly, they don't even show 1020 DOM on their site?
Looks like mostly structural steel, which may not be the same grades as need for chassis construction? |
The higher the number generally speaking the higher the temperature and corrosion resistance due to a higher nickel content. These properties come at a price, reduced tensile strength! The 304 has good tensile and other mechanical properties, if I was making a SS chassis that would be my choice. Yarde deals in alloys, if you are looking for 1020 DOM (which is what my frame is) you are talking mechanical tubing. Good place for price and availability on that is marmon
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more steel sites
Bob
Here are a couple of sites that have a selection and some prices with shipping. Structural is usually erw welded and dom is drawn over a mandrel and no seam.The dom tube carbon steel is usually the choice over structural.Tigdepot has a selection of tig rod with explanation of application,very helpfull. Al http://www.tigdepot.com/ WWW.twmetals.com http://www.metalsdepot.com/index.phtml |
Changing the subject here a little, does anyone know the diameter of the shaft that attaches the rear upright to the rear a-arm on the 289?
Also, anyone know the outside diameter of the bushing that is installed at the end of the leaf spring? Thanks, |
DOM Tubing Supplier
Dillsburg Aero.
Dillsburg, PA 17019 (717) 432-4589 I purchased 1 1/8" DOM, .120 wall for $3.60/ft. which I thought was pretty good. They have tons of tubing, both DOM and Chrome Moly. Just an FYI. --Mark |
Well, looks like the Stainless frame idea will have to wait until my next Cobra. I found a partially completed 427SC frame that I'm buying along with a Carbon fiber body that looks great. Thanks, Mickmate for the contact!
Now, I need the drawings for the A-arms in the front and the suspension pieces in the rear for an IRS. I'm planning on using a T-bird IRS and modifying the pieces as I need to make it work, but I need a starting point. Anyone have any suspension drawings a guy could use to get started? Also, what are you guys using for coil-over shocks and other pieces? If we could share what we learn along the way, it might save time and money for all of us. A list of drawings/dimensions, part numbers and manufacturers, and suppliers would really be helpful. In fact, I need some dimensioned drawings for the motor mounts my frame is missing. I have a pretty good drawing of the birdcage I need to complete and the body to match it to so hopefully, that part won't be too challenging. Thanks for any help guys- I hope I can return the favor soon. - Bob |
Hey Bob, the post is alive and well and so is your project. That's great, congrats and welcome to the masochistic side. I think your chassis is original specs. If you want to use T bird IRS are you going to use that geometry or are you planning on stealing parts from it and working them into the original geometry?
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Bob Some Info.
Bob,
First thing, drawings are from: Cobra Restorers 3099 Carter Dr. Kennesaw Ga. 30144 Try www.cobrarestorers.com or google. I can't find the information at the moment. Ph. 770-427-0020 (I believe his name is Chuck) I believe he has drawings or CD. Then check out Pole Position for suspension parts such as upper and lower control arms. I used the modified MII adjustable uppers and MII lowers. The lowers come with the cross shaft but I took it appart and machined steel bushings so I could have independent pick up points. Web page www.polepositionrp.com Phone # toll free 888-303-8555 Ask for Ted. Tell him Alex said that he would help in answering your questions. Then the rack and pinion is from Flaming River in Ohio www.flamingriver.com All my frame and brackets are home made. Also, If you are planning on building and using the original parts, Cobra Restorers can help you with that also. Don't get confused, as I am building a cobra to race and go not shine and show. I will be posting some pictures probably next week. I have been pretty busy and going to Bristol this weekend. Cobracer |
Micmate,
Hope your project is progressing well.
I thought this thread was dead! I know I told you that I had made some changes and would post some pics but just run out of time. Things are progressing well and probably should try posting some pictures around of next week. This is Bristol weekend. cobracer |
Hi Alex
You jumped on that one, good stuff! Keep the post and our projects alive.
Cheers Nick |
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