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Old 03-25-2006, 01:01 PM
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Default Shell Valley door hinges

I had some time to work on my door hinges today while waiting on my trailing links to arrive. I welded studs into a plate to bond to the door later and bolted it to the hinge plates then tacked that to my door hoop. With the door hoop formed to fit closely, the hoop runs into the door surround and the door won't even come close to clearing the body lip.

I shortened the hoop about a 1/2" and tacked it all back together. Now the hoop clears, but the door isn't clearing any better.




Have any of you guys resolved this problem and how did you do it? Or, does anyone have a template for a different door hinge that I could use to make this work? Needlesss to say, I'm not real happy with these Shell Valley door hinges, though I realize it is probably user incompetence and/or ignorance at this point.

Thanks in advance,
Bob
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Old 03-25-2006, 01:04 PM
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Okay, how do I enlarge the photo's? Man, am I helpless or what?
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Old 03-25-2006, 04:49 PM
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On the Shell Valley cars, the hinge part is mounted further toward the front of the car which makes them mount on the doors a lot closer to the foward edge than what you have there.

Sydney
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:22 PM
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Hi Bob, I have a template of the hinge pieces I can send you, I'll scan it in Tuesday if you remind me (planning on a sickie Monday ). There was an envelope in the mail Friday BTW.
Cheers Nick
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Old 03-25-2006, 06:46 PM
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Thanks Nick, I'll be watching for it.
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Old 03-25-2006, 08:56 PM
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Hinges are ALLWAYS a pain, but I have to agree with Sydney most all of them I have seen just barely clear the jamb when set up correctly.

I will try to post some photos of the SV Coupe for you, they are entirely different and kind of clever.

Or just stop by sometime...

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Old 03-25-2006, 09:25 PM
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Hey, I don't mean to rob this post, but has anyone figured out how to modify the "hoop door hinges" so they're not pinning your left leg against the steering wheel
I can barely engage the clutch and brake when neccesary because of the tight fit between the hinge and wheel.
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Old 03-26-2006, 05:13 AM
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The most efficient hinge pivot point (space-wise) is as close to the outer body surface as possible and only forward of the front door edge enough to allow enough clearance to safely open the door.
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Old 03-26-2006, 08:24 AM
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SP, yeah I cut out some cardboard pieces and did a mock up on paper and figured that out, but with the dash hoop in the way and the existing hinge mount there just isn't a lot of room or options to make this happen. I'm hoping somebody else has figured out this problem and has a design I can steal so I don't have to reinvent the wheel.
Thanks, Bob
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Old 03-26-2006, 10:16 AM
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Default door hinges

Bob,
I have worked alot on my SV door hinges and built a few new ones, none to my complete satisfaction. The biggest advice I can give is to move the pivot point as far against the body as you can without it hitting the lip on the door openining to quickly. After pushing the hinge toward the body side then tack weld your hinge to the plate on the door. Pushing the hinge toward the body wall makes the door push away from the body as the door opens thus making the door not hit. If you get the hinge to far against the body wall the tube on the hinge hits the lip around the door opening before the door can open far enough to get in the car. This design still sucks but it is workable.
Good Luck,
Doc
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