Dropped footboxes and other adjustments?

[Three Peaks]

I know most of the scratch builders are building to roughly original specs so I know this question is probably sacrilegous to some of you. Try to hold your nose for a bit if necessary.

I've never liked the feel of sitting with my legs straight out for long driving periods. I know that with the right seats you can adjust quite a bit of your position to make up for this which is why I'm going with the Sube Cobra SS seats in the end.
However, I've ridden in several Factory five cars with the dropped footboxes and found them very comfortable to ride in compared to the flat bottomed original style footboxes.
I've been trying to figure out how to accomplish this with an original style build and wanted to run an idea past the experts here.

Since I'm using the Wilwood hanging pedal set up and original style footboxes from Tim Gunning, my driver's footbox floor is available for "modification". I was thinking of making up an aluminum pan and cutting it into the floor of the footbox for about a 2-3" dropped box and more foot room in both footboxes. I would then just rivet it in place to stiffen the footbox where material will be removed.

Also, I'm trying to finalize my idea for mounting the Wilwood hanging pedal set up. My plan at this point is to wrap the front/upper 1/2 or more of the footbox with 10-12 guage metal to include the front of the footbox. This should stiffen the footbox enough to give me mounting points for my clutch/brake set up and handle the stresses of hard braking on a road course. If necessary, I will tie it into the 3/4" square tube above the footbox and the chassis somehow to add some additional structure for heavy use.

What do you guys think of this idea? Do you think I'll need to glass over the dropped box to add additional structure to the dropped footboxes? Do you think the metal footbox wrap will be stiff enough to handle heavy braking loads with my size 10 feet? Any other ideas, criticisms, good jokes welcome.....

Bob