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Mick,I'll check them out, thanks
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Droop
Joey, I used 1' od x .188 wall dom and threaded 3/4 16 left or right as needed.What I meant about the supension points is where the lower arms attach.My photos show pretty close to original mounted high on frame rails.Mickmate has a very good method in lieu of full threads.
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I used the 1" DOM by .156 wall for my 3/4" threaded rods and it worked perfectly. I was wondering the same thing about your suspension mounting points also, I can see you have modified the lower A-arms but is the geometry being set up properly with your set up? Will the rack line up properly?
BTW, did you get the rear overhang pieces and are you going original style in the rear or creating your own design for the rear? Are you going Jag rear or Ford 8.8 IRS? Bob |
Mick, what length are your arms? i see how your lower mounting point is higher than mine by a couple inches.
Bob, the rack seems like it is going to line up ok. still trying to get the length of my arms right. I was going with 9.5" for the upper and 13" for the lower, I read that this was the original length somewhere around here, but that doesn't seem like it is going to work. haven't put too much thought into the rear but I will probably go with something like alfy built: http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...d_in_right.jpg I wanted to use the Ford IRS but it seems like I can't get rid of this Jag IRS so I might end up using it afterall. |
Joey,
The spindles you use will determine to a large degree what your suspension piece lengths will be. A while back, Alex Evanosky gave me some dimensions. They are in a thread from way back in the "Scratch Building" forum, I believe. Anyway, I am using Mustang II spindles for my build and I'm sure my pieces would be different from yours by a bit. The original spindles were even quite a bit different yet. You will need to determine your hub to hub distance and geometry to determine your suspension pieces' length. Mick had a good way to do it. He laid out his wheels/tires where they had to be to clear his fenders and measured inside of wheel to inside of wheel and used that as his hub to hub distance. I did the same thing but in a slightly different way. Bob |
Actually Bob the fender clearance was just a double check of the flange to flange plus widths, offsets etc. I drew up my suspension in CAD with all the pivot points calculated to align, upper, lower and steering. This is all based on ball joint locations. I wouldn't try and invent your own geometry, it gets deep with anti dive, scrub steer etc. I'd use something already figured out for the track wheel width etc. Remember the first one was built by propping 4 wheels against barrels and building their way inwards per typical hot rod build methods.
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Nick,
Guess I was sleeping during that part of the class. ;) Bob |
No you weren't, you were working on your car making progress while I was cipherin!
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Joey what are you up to with that rear end? It looks like you have upper and lower arms and Jag axles as well. Which arms did you need a length on?
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back to basics... **)
Ok, ok I know "you told me so..."
I scratched my first aattempt at geometry and started over. I propped up the body on the frame or what I have so far and it lines up pretty good. I also bought a set of wheels from a fellow cobra guy and will mock them up under the wheel wells when they arrive. I will then begin to measure and work my way inwards. (why didn't anybody mention this before??geez!) :p In the mean time I can start to measure/bend/cut and tack on the "birdcage" items for the rear and sides. my "new to me" wheels! http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x..._hv/wheels.jpg http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/102_3164.jpg http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/102_3166.jpg http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/102_3163.jpg |
Broken welding machine...
Well I was able to make some headway on the rear of the frame. That is until my welder quit feeding wire. Does anyone have any knowledge on these type of machines? it is a Hobart 120 Handler. I can hear the relay clicking but the motor will not turn. I can turn the wheel by hand and the wire will feed through the gun so it is not bound up. So freaking frustrating.
Guess I gotta break out the trusty buzz box.http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...ey_hv/weld.gif http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/100_3518.jpg http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/100_3519.jpg http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/100_3520.jpg At least it gave me some time to do a little work on my new diving helmet mold. http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/100_3521.jpg |
Well got my wire welder back, $96 dollars later. made a little headway.
http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/102_3323.jpg http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...v/102_3324.jpg http://i182.photobucket.com/albums/x...ey_hv/weld.gif |
Hello Joey
No more pics? |
I am starting to work on it again in January 09, I should have my son's Cougar finished and out of the way by then....
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What ever happened to this project?
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