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Old 03-01-2015, 03:51 PM
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Default Oil Cooler thermostat, oil injection sump, etc.

OK, so I have a friend that used to have a 427 Cobra that is telling me I need to install an oil cooler thermostat, and some other times on my newly built CSX 7972, which has the Shelby Engines 331 with Webers. He claims the oil cooler is too efficient and the oil will never get hot enough, so a thermostat (180 degree) is needed in the line. He also says a pre-oiler sump pump injector should be used to get the engine oiled up before starting, and that I need a return line from the back end of the fuel rail to the gas tank to keep it from vapor locking. None of these things were talked about when the car was built, so is any of this really necessary on a 289 street car that will never be raced or tracked? Thanks for any opinions.
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:09 PM
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I agree on the oil cooler thermostat, at least on my FE. Oil cannot get hot enough. Actually just taking the oil cooler out of the loop is better for a street machine. You will never need it.
No experience with the other items.
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Old 03-01-2015, 05:38 PM
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Before you go nuts making changes, why not drive the car, watch the oil temp and as long as it gets up to about 90 degrees centigrade, you're ok. An oil cooler thermostat is one option if it doesn't. Disconnecting the oil cooler is another option. As for the vapor lock, once again, drive it and get it up to operating temps then shut it down and see if it restarts after about 15 minutes of heat soaking. If it starts, you're fine.

Now go drive it. There will be plenty of other bugs that will need your attention.
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:05 AM
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OK, I will look out for these things, thanks. And if I ever get the car titled and registered, I can drive it legally for a longer period…….
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:36 AM
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Originally Posted by mikyFIA View Post
OK, I will look out for these things, thanks. And if I ever get the car titled and registered, I can drive it legally for a longer period…….
What state are you attempting to title and register the car in?

What seems to be the issues you are experiencing in doing so?



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Old 03-02-2015, 08:27 AM
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I agree you should think about disconnecting the oil cooler. I just installed mine and ran braided lines into the engine bay and capped them for future use so it's just there for looks. My oil has difficulty reaching a high temp as it is, so I'll never need the cooler. The thermostat is just added complexity and potential for leaks.

On the preoiler, it's not a bad idea but I don't think you need it.

On the return line, do you have a mechanical or an electric pump? If electric, you should have a return anyway. If mechanical, I wouldn't add a return. If you have vapor lock issues (esp with winter gas), insulate your fuel lines and add a phenolic spacer. That will likely solve your problem.
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Old 03-02-2015, 01:02 PM
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Before you disconnect the oil cooler, I would tape it to stop airflow.
And I agree, you probably won't need it in the US of A at 65 mph.
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Old 03-02-2015, 02:27 PM
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Return line is entirely dependent on the fuel system components. What do you have?
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:54 PM
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What state are you attempting to title and register the car in?

What seems to be the issues you are experiencing in doing so?



Bill S.
Bill, I am in New Mexico, and the MVD told me earlier, before I picked up the car, when I told them that it was sold on an MSO from Shelby American, that I would not need anything but the MSO, Bill of Sale, and proof of insurance to title and register the car. I went down with all that, and then the Gestapo lady told me this must be a "special construction" car (she could not find any other box to check in the computer), or a kit car, and so needed a "level 3" VIN inspection that can only be done by the State Police or FBI. The State Police only does those inspections one day a month, so I am on the list for Friday this week, hope it goes well. She said she had never done one like this, and didn't know they existed, hope the State Police know better……what a mess this state is sometimes for titling and registering anything except new cars from major manufacturers.
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:57 PM
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Return line is entirely dependent on the fuel system components. What do you have?
I have what Jim Inglese called a standard Weber induction system for a 289 Ford setup, looks like this:

Mechanical fuel pump and inlet line side pressure regulator at 3 psi, I think.
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Old 03-02-2015, 03:59 PM
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What's the rest of the fuel system?
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Old 03-02-2015, 06:18 PM
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I am just completing my FIA car (CSX7996) also. My engine builder didn't want the oil running cool and had me install a high temperature Mocal oil thermostat. Will probably only pass oil thru cooler during very hot days or open track events. I just titled and registered my car and I have another easy option for you that you might explore. PM me and I will go into detail. I have the FIA Jim Inglese Weber setup and have no return line and I'm sure I won't. Call Jim Inglese and discuss if you want the expert answer. Jim Leader
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:59 AM
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What's the rest of the fuel system?
A gas tank in the back and a metal line from that (sending unit) to the mechanical fuel pump on the block.
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Old 03-03-2015, 04:59 PM
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Originally Posted by mikyFIA View Post
A gas tank in the back and a metal line from that (sending unit) to the mechanical fuel pump on the block.
Depending on the proximity of your fuel line to the exhaust the vapor lock is possible, but unlikely. Unless you have a fuel pump that pumps sufficient volume, a return line may not really help. It looks like you have a fuel regulator in the pic with the carbs. If that is the case, does it have provision for a return? If so, the increased fuel flow from a return will all but eliminate the potential for vapor lock.

If my fuel line were close to the exhaust, I'd throw on an insulating sleeve before I ran a return. Exception would be a high volume mechanical designed to use a return.
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Old 03-03-2015, 05:14 PM
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Default Help 427

Hey guys can someone help me ,im on holiday in the Philippines and i have found a 427 red cobra that looks like it hasnt moved for about 30 or more years,how can i tell if its genuine,i am from australia and no my aussie ford stuff but this is out of my league ? is the chassis number csx or maybe something else for a imported car ? I am only here for a day on this island so im trying to get a quick reply,I am going soon to look at the car in question,it has the 427 badge on the guard and is not in the best of condition but ?
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Old 03-03-2015, 06:01 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikeinatlanta View Post
Depending on the proximity of your fuel line to the exhaust the vapor lock is possible, but unlikely. Unless you have a fuel pump that pumps sufficient volume, a return line may not really help. It looks like you have a fuel regulator in the pic with the carbs. If that is the case, does it have provision for a return? If so, the increased fuel flow from a return will all but eliminate the potential for vapor lock.

If my fuel line were close to the exhaust, I'd throw on an insulating sleeve before I ran a return. Exception would be a high volume mechanical designed to use a return.
Thanks I will check out the fuel line path. I have a pressure regulator on the inlet end of the fuel rail, the other end is just a plug, so return could be added, as the pressure meter is on the dashboard. I think I will drive it around for a while and see if there is an issue with vapor lock, in all the cars I have ever had (well except my brother's 1951 Ford flathead) I have never had a vapor lock issue.
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