What kind of oil is everyone running?
 

After the first 3,000 miles for break in, what kind of oil is everyone running? Please state motor/HP of motor if known, what type of oil:

1) Full Synthetic

2) Half synthetic

3) Premium Castrol multi vis/etc...

4) Premium 30 wt

5) Whatever is cheapest :D

ALSO:

What kind of oil filter, and why?

Kendall GT 40 W Dino Oil
 

427 center oiler, 450 hp

Canton Meca cartridge oil filter (cool billet enclosure)

One bottle Prolong additive

TT

351W stroked to 408ci, 450+ flywheel bhp.

I found I had a lot of problems using "regular" Castrol etc, all cured when I moved to Valvoline 20 50 racing oil, non synthetic. Still have a moderate oil temp problem at trackdays, larger cooler on it's way for this year. Pressure OK at all times.

oil filter - Coopers Z1 or Motorcraft FL1A.

Wilf

Oil being used
 

I use redline 30 weight. My buddies turned me on to it and seems to be working fine. Engine temps and pressure are lower than when i was using regular castro.

N2Venom: Is that for your break in period?
 

Are you planning on a different oil after break in?
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And to the Castrol multi vis standard oil issue: I have used it with great success in regular autos, non hi performance, and a 460 motor in my work truck...which is getting a bit tired, finally. Also in motorcycles for many years... my personal plan (unless someone here gives me a better idea) is to run some excellent 30 wt oil until the 3,000 miles break in is over, (From what I hear, synthetic is a big no no for the break in period) and then switch to 50/50 standard multi vis/synthetic. I hear it dramatically cuts down on friction and wear (synthetic) and when I added 50% synthetic to my old truck 460 it seemed to perk up just a bit. Maybe it's just wishful thinking :p

Any good reasons NOT to go this way for my new Ford crate motor?

From the studies I have seen, my plan has been to go with a premium Mobil 1 filter...several other good ones too I hear.

Anyone tried K & N oil filters? Good? Bad? %/

Amsoil full sythetic 10w 30
Twin Moroso Racing Filters

351W, +.40, AFR heads, Speed Demon 650
Dyno'd around 370hp

Roscoe

Oil---What Oil?
 

Nothing quite as exotic as you guys but here is my input:


428 CJ bored .030 W/ Single Holley 750 4V
Toploader Big in Big Out 4 speed (Redline 90W)
373:1 in a 8.8 rearend live axel

Quaker State 10W40 Reason: The oil just works for me in all my Ford vehicles.

Ford Motorcraft 300 short filter: Reason: I believe the Motorcraft filter is a good product & I never had a problem at the street or track and they are available even at Wal-Mart.

Temp and oil pressure: Has been good and predictable.

However, I am open to better ideas or suggestions. And keep in mind this is my first FE engine since I had a 69 Cobra Jet Mustang back in the 70's. But I have had lots of Muscle Cars since then with good results.

Castrol Syntec 10W30, Fram XG43 filter.

351W, hydraulic roller cam, TFS heads. HP? I don't know.

Been using Castrol synthetic for several years in all newer engines including this one. Engines run cooler, cleaner, and little wear. Oil pressure stays planted at 50 lb. 25 lb hot and idling. Nonsense about synthetic being more leak prone. Target and Wall Mart sell it in gallon containers for a little over $13, as opposed to $5/ quart. Got a 9 quart pan to feed at change time.

Filter is an extended life Fram. The #43 I found in a cross reference. W motor in CR won't take a full length filter. The #16 is used in 302 powered MII's. The #43 is in between full length and shortie 16.

Same as Jack21. It was in the car when we got it and we only have about 300mi on it now. Yeh, it hasn't been driven much, But will be when the the weather turns a bit nicer--Driving in rain and drizzle is not our idea of a fun drive, especially in the replica(pc:D )
Too many yahoos out there with suv's and no clue.
So what is the best oil filter combo? for a sb, mild, 351 aprox 400 hp(never dynoed).?

oil
 

66 427 Med riser side oiler - Valvoline 40 wt Racing oil for 30 years.
64 289 HiPo 343 HP - Valvoline 40 wt Racing oil.
87 Dodge Ram 360-4V - Valvoline 40 wt Racing oil 383,000 miles
94 Thunderbird 4.6 - Valvoline 20W50 Dynaguard - 140,000 miles
94 Mercedes C280 - Valvoline 20W50 Dynaguard- 58.000 miles

Fram oil filters
 

I don't want to scare anyone, but I have been told by engine rebuilders that Fram oil filters are WAY too restrictive, and starve your motor of oil on startup. I have been warned not to use them by some knowledgeable persons, who claim to have done their own tests.

Man, that price ( $13..!! ) sounds awesome on a gallon of Castrol syntec! Are you sure it's not dish detergent ,.....mislabeled!!?? :LOL: :JEKYLHYDE

If it's the real thing, I am headed over to target tommorrow!!!

Engine Oil
 

On my 427 Top Oiler, I use Kendall 20-50 non-synthetic. I use a Fram HP1 high performance filter. Never had a problem.

289 HiPo

Still breaking the engine in at 104.4 miles.

I understand that you should never use a synthetic oil for breakin.

Using Twin Motorcraft FL1A's and currently Pennzoil 10W40. Going to switch at next change to Valvoline. My Stepfater who is a chemical engineer stated that it used to be (not sure if it's still true) that Pennzoil is "Parrafin" based and could cause the engine to gum over a period of years. Valvoline is (in his opinion) the purest production "standard" motor oil.

I've had great luck in the past with Mobil 1 20W50 in my SHO.:D

Either Mobil 1 or Royal Purple full synthetic in all cars, lawn mower, go kart, snow blower, . . Everything! I use 10-40 in all the generic cars, and 20-50 in the Cobra, and my sons 390 AMX.

Ed

Reoil used
 

I have a stroked 351 putting out over 500 horsepower and Canton Mavhine works who built the motor used Valvoline 20-50 racing oil in it fo the dyno runs and also recommended that for me. I have used it for over 5 years now and have never had a problem. I also have used it in my big block Torino Cobra since 1969 and it has worked great.

Ron61

Re-run...
 

This was posted earlier here in CC, and I found it quite interesting. Thought it would be appreciated in this thread. It's an oil filter study. Check it out.

http://www.scuderiaciriani.com/rx7/oil_filter_study/

Dave

Castrol 10-50, the only oil

358ci , 660hp, valvoline synthetic 5-30wt. I was told by the builder that the most damage occurs on start up with a cold motor. Thats why the 5wt cold start multi grade oil. My oil temp never gets over 210 so I don't need 50wt. scott

What kind of oil.
 

In my opinion - Quaker State 10W40 or 10W30.
I know it's not the popular choice but I'm getting exteme life on my engines with Quaker State. My Triumph GT6 for example was purchased new in 1972. After 29 years of ownership including 5 years of autocrossing and over 210,000 total miles the engine still runs like a champ and has never been opened for internal service. When I adjust the valves the valve train is clean with nominal wear for the age of the vehicle. Another example is my 1986 TransAm. Purchased new 15 Years Ago - 165,000 miles on the ticker and just starting to do the classic Chevy cold startup - small puff of blue smoke routine. I'm getting ready to fireup a freshly built 403 Ford FE in my 427SC. It's carrying 9 qurts of 10W40. For me it's 3000 mile filter/oil changes with Quaker State and no problems expected.

I knew it would be all over the ballpark
 

At least it's not as volatile an issue as small block vs big block, or (dare I even mention it!?) shelby and Kirkham cars vs the "fake" cobras (like mine) :JEKYLHYDE
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Ron61:

I have always thought that 30 wt was the standard oil used for engine break in...surprised that a builder would use 20-50 for break in, but it's interesting...personally I love multi-vis oils like Castrol/Quaker state, etc... OR the synthetic multi vis..


renaissance man said:
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currently Pennzoil 10W40. Going to switch at next change to Valvoline. My Stepfater who is a chemical engineer stated that it used to be (not sure if it's still true) that Pennzoil is "Parrafin" based and could cause the engine to gum over a period of years. Valvoline is (in his opinion) the purest production "standard" motor oil.
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........My dad used to tell me the same thing, back in the 1970s...suspect he was right, about the Pennzoil. I have seen some really gummy motors, covered in thick crusty varnish, and I always wondered. He also used Quaker state in all his (many) "collectors" cars (My mom did not appreciate his hobby, and preferred to call them "junk", although they included corvettes, corvairs, and just about any other type of car or truck or heavy equipment) Thing is, as to oils, I hear synthetics are a whole new ballgame...my decision on my regular "after break in" oil, at this point, is between a 50/50 mix of standard multi vis/synthetic, OR full 100% multi vis synthetic....synthetic is said to be the stuff, what the guys in the "know" are using..... I figure I will blend the synthetic, mabe use two quarts of 5-50, and then top off with 5-30 wt synthetic.
One other supposed advantage to the synthetics: Amsoil president just gave an interview, I think in Kit Car mag, where he claims synthetic oil does not need to be changed but every 10 to 15 thousand miles. He says even the 3,000 mile thing for standard oils, is a plan by US dealers to get you in for more service work = $
If I remember correctly, the filter should be changed on the regular schedule, according to him. Maybe less often for the full synthetic oils, as there is less wear = less wear particles to trap

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coyled said:
358ci , 660hp, valvoline synthetic 5-30wt. I was told by the builder that the most damage occurs on start up with a cold motor. Thats why the 5wt cold start multi grade oil. My oil temp never gets over 210 so I don't need 50wt. scott
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Makes sense, and I have always used a 10-40 oil, in recent years, when it was for hard work, or a hot (temp) motor, I always started the oil change with a few quarts of 20-50, for the hotter temps, then topped off with 10-40....but my experience with my tired 460 truck motor (Used 50% 5-50 synthetic Castrol) is causing me to strongly consider synthetic now, with a 5 wt as part of the mix
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dalola:

Thanks for finding that post /thread...I read it, but somehow I never bookmarked it. Great analysis of filters, backs up what my engine rebuilder told me (He rebuilt the 258 jeep six for my 1974 Scout 2, which is currently getting some beautification and mods in my garage)