Steel Buildings

[BLACKJACK]

HEY, GUYS,

I'LL BE DIGGING THE HOLE FOR THE NEW HOUSE SOON. IT WILL HAVE A 3 1/2 CAR GARAGE. NOT ENOUGH ROOM. I ALREADY HAVE MY HEART SET ON A SLAB SIDE AND AN FFR SPEC RACER FOR THE FUTURE. ADDITIONALY THE "ALLEY CAT" NEEDS SOMEPLACE TO PARK HER JAG XK-150.

I WILL ALSO NEED ROOM FOR A "BUNCH" OF FARMER BROWN TOOLS SINCE I'LL BE LIVING IN THE COUNTRY FOR THE FIRST TIME. YOU KNOW - JUST THE ESSENTIALS LIKE PULL AROUND MOWERS, SMALL TRACTORS, A COUPLE OF 4WD ATV'S, ETC.

I WANT TO BUILD A STEEL BUILDING TO HOUSE THE "OVERFLOW" FROM THE GARAGE. IT WILL ALSO GIVE ME SOMEPLACE TO STORE MY "STUFF" WHILE THE HOUSE IS BEING BUILT. (RIGHT NOW I'M LITERALLY SPREAD OVER FOUR COUNTIES).

HAS ANYONE ANY EXPERIENCE WITH MANUFACTURERS OF STEEL BUILDINGS ??? WHAT FEATURES SHOULD I BE LOOKING FOR ??? I REALLY WANT A QUALITY JOB THAT WILL LAST. I'M LOOKING FOR SOMETHING IN THE SIZE OF - 24 X 36, 30 X 40, OR EVEN 36 X 48.

ANY THOUGHTS ON WHAT I SHOULD LOOK FOR OR WHAT I SHOULD AVOID WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

THANKS, AND, Y'ALL HAVE A REALLY GREAT DAY,

BLACKJACK

[aumoore]

I am in that industry. I sell metal panels and structura to manufacturers of Metal Buildings in the Southeast.

Make sure the panels are at least 26 gauge with a warrantable finish. Some manufacturers will try to pass off seconds on the panels and that can run from almost prime to junk. Just ask for a written warranty.

Another important piece of info is will it meet the local building code. Do not get stuck with a building designed for Farm applications where thee are very few codes andthen find out that the building inspector will not approve it. A reputable mnufacturer will give you plans and may be abe to help with the foundtion(slab) design.

Other things are: gutters and downspouts, insulation(At least insulate the roof as the panels will sweat on cool mornings), make sure you are getting doors(some buildings advertised as distressed or overstock will not meet code, hae any trim or have a way for you to get into it)

Good luck

[Jamo]

BLACKJACK
Heed aumoore's words. I had a friend who put up an ag building last year to use as his home shop/garage--and ran into tons of problems getting it approved for its suburban setting. Cost him a ton to bring it to grade. Suing everyone. I think you've had enough fun with attorneys for awhile, haven't you?

[Fast Farmer]

Blackjack
Farmers know steel machine sheds, and I have seven that I use. I will share some pointers on features I like and things to look for when picking a manufacturer. Checking the guage of metal, finish, and warranty was good advice from Aumore. I would also check the snow load rating, who erects the building (company crew or independent contractor), out of season purchase discounts, and if you can see area completed buildings to guage the quality of the final erected product.

If you plan to go with an open rafter design in at least your tractor and implement portion of your building, I would reccommend a continuous ridge row skylight. This type of skylight seems stronger than the rectangles in the miidle of the roof. These buildings can be dark inside even during the day without the doors open, so you need skylights. If you will have sliding big doors, try to lay your building out so the wind doesn't make them tough to close when a Summer or Winter storm surprises you. This is tough to do since the different season storms likeky come from different directions. Remember that even smaller tractors can be taller than cars and trucks. You probably don't need the 14' clearance for a combine or folded equipment, but there are some 4x4 SUVs that won't even fit in standard height garages. We have 22' or 24' width doors, but you would probably want at least a 14' or 16' wide implement door. You may have to hit that hole in the dark when you are tired and need extra room to spare. You can have end or side doors or both. If you only have one set of doors you'll always be rotating equipment to get to what you need. My preference for construction of the sliding doors is to have the framing 2x4s turned so the door is thicker and more resistant to extreme bowing from high wind. You may want a divider wall going all the way to the roof so you can cut costs and only insulate/heat where the cars go. The building company can use the same construction technique as for the exterior walls. If you have a workshop or garage area with a dropped ceiling, the loft space above it can be used to store car parts, etc... Make sure you add extra ceiling/floor joists for any serious storage weight. When having your building wired, make sure the electrician adds extra outlets near the door openings. Outlets in the middle of wall runs don't do you much good when you have to crawl over farm machinery to get to them.

There are lots of Manufacturers. Morton Buildings is the Cadillac and the price reflects it. Two other brands to check are Cleary and Wicks. There are lots of "factory direct to you" companies, but I don't know anything about them or who erects the product. The Farm Progress Show showcases many of the steel building companies, who actually build examples of their product on the show site. This years show is in Iowa in late September. Hopefully there is another Ag products or trade show closer to you. There is always the internet to turn to for leads.

I hope this helps.

Fast Farmer

[Double Venom]

Blackjack,

We've been researching Metal buildings for a few years now. Hoping to upgrade the shop and increase it three fold. I really like the steel beamed buildings! No code problems as far as structure goes, wide open centers no matter how large you go and you can use the side supports for shelving and or hanging all you neat parts. They even sell hook attachments for them.

You've been in our old shop, and it's a Morton. Over 20 years old and no major complaints to date, although the roof is starting to look a little rough. Our main building is 55 x 65, the attached new section is 36 x 40.

All the info spoken here is dead on! My building originally had, two outlets, two over head light bulbs, and a dirt floor. On any given summer day it used to rain inside, from sweating. The original 16' double sliding doors, both ends of the building would look like a sea gull in a good wind, with both ends almost standing outright.

See you in a few weeks Sir!

DV

[Jim Downard]

Hey Blackjack, I'm a third generation family member in our construction company. You name it we have probably built it. For the size you're wanting to build, there are usually package deals from manufacturers that you can choose from. If you have never built a building before, you will definitely need to hire someone with experience. Erecting it is reletively easy, Trimming it out can be the *****, and it's the finial fit and finish that everyone notices. Here's a thought. Wood Pole Barn. Don't everybody laugh. My open bay is 30x48 x 12 high. Added to the side is a 12x48 lean too addition, but from the outside you can't tell as the 3 12 pictch roof is continuous from the center of my 30 bay to the edge of the lean too. It's built with 8 x 8 main posts and 4 x 6 end posts. Trusses are 8' on center. Walls have 2x4's nailed flat every two feet, and roof purlins are 2x4's nailed on edgs every two feet. Now, here's the inportant part. Go to your local lumber yard and by Typar Housewrap. At the very least place it on your roof under the metal. It will NEVER sweat. Then buy 1 1/2" Celotex insulation board and place in the walls between your 2x4's. This has a R-value of about 11. Fasten metal siding to the underside of your trusses and place 6" fiberglass insulation above it. Now use paneling of your choice to cover the walls and you have a very rowdy, nice looking, and well insulated building. 60 mph winds and you can barely even tell mine has movement.
A side note, when wiring it, run your wires on top of the wall 2x4's so they'll be hidden after paneling. Mine is completely finished with heat and lights and I have maybe $10,000 total in materials. I did the labor myself. BUT, If you really want a metal building, Those are good too. Just a little pricey for me. The last one's we built were manufactured by STEELOX located I think in Washington Courthouse, Ohio.

I could probably get you some manufaturer names in your area if you are really interested.

Jim Downard

[Rich]

BLACKJACK,

Go for the big doors. Mine are 10'x8' and have come in handy more than once.

Rich

[SCOBRAC]

This place is full of useful information.. I am an engineer and specifically deal in construction and compliance issues.. Everything I read here is completely accurate and first rate information.

First I have to tell you metal building manufacturers are probably the least regulated and most underlooked in any form of building construction and as such, tend to get away with a lot more than a reputable constructed building maker ever could.. I won't say they are more dishonest, but as group I have more problems with them than any other single group.

It is helpful and better for you if you get STAMPED engineered drawings of the mechanical connections, columns and beams, and foundation details... Run away from anyone who would tell you it is fine to use only wire welded fabric (chicken wire) for slab reinforcing.. A good maker will insist on # 4 rebar at regular intervals of not less than 48".. Much less here in Calif..

These stamped details are one thing you will need to get a permit and you will need one if you live in most parts of the country. A typical disreputable maker will "forget to provide them" or simply tell you you do not need them.. If you do not have them expect a good engineering firm to want from between $1200-2500 to do them for a typical building. These costs are easily avoided by using a quality builder...

Something else.. Figure out your window and door openings well in advance.. Know exactly what you want before you get the building into production. Changes during construction can be very costly.. Ask your builder what changes cost prior to the start of construction and get the typical costs in writing..

Ask him about the window and door warranty. Often a builder will warrant a building, but not the windows or doors... Sometimes a warranty will be voided completely if you decide to add a door or skylight that was not part of the original package.

I little homework goes a long way..

[kountzecobra]

Looks like you are getting some good advice. I live in a metal building with shop at one end and living area at the other 40' X 82'. Started out to be temporary, but we all decided to not build a house and stay in metal building permanently. Looks just like a real house inside and my shop with cars are just on the other side of the living room. Works great for me and my family.

[DAVID GAGNARD]

Blackjack;

I have a 40x50 metal building,RUFFIN is the brand... Good company to deal with,you tell them what you want and they engineer it. All panels are pre-cut as well as all beams,they are numbered and lettered and it goes together real easy. My building took a whopping three days to fully erect.

Do go with insulation all the way around.....I have seen buildings that were not and they "sweat" like hell and every owner was sorry he did not insulate. My isulation was about $1200.00 for the whole building,just shop around.. Also put in at least one big roof vent....I have a 12x12 roll up door with a remote control opener which is worth it's weight in gold....

You can not go wrong with a metal building,inexpensive and easy and quick to erect.....Best money I ever spent....

David

[llama man]

I just ordered a WebSteel 30' x 48' x 14' eve kit. The steel columns are 12' on center. Three of the four bays will have 10' wide by 12' tall doors. The trusses are all steel. There are 2 x 6 girts and 2 x 8 purlins douglas fir so that insulation and dry-wall can be put up. I bought one of their "internet" specials... a standard package... I didn't need any custom features. I plan to put a four-post lift in one of the bays (that's why I went to the 14' eves).They will design custom buildings. My package runs about $7300. I will do the install over a monolithic concrete foundation. I helped a friend put one up last summer and was impressed. See the options at http://www.websteel.com/
No affiliation with Websteel.

[cobrashoch]

WOW! This is one thread I plan on printing/filing out. In spite of all the dumb stuff written here, every once in a while,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
cobrashock

[BLACKJACK]

HEY, GUYS,

THANKS VERY MUCH FOR ALL THE GREAT INFORMATION AND SUGGESTIONS. I REALLY APPRECIATE THE HELP.

AS SCREWED UP AS THINGS ARE FOR ME RIGHT NOW I'M TRYING REAL HARD NOT TO MAKE A MISTAKE. THE CAVEATS ARE AS IMPORTANT TO ME AS THE POSITIVES.

THANKS AGAIN AND, Y'ALL HAVE A REALY GREAT DAY.

BLACKJACK