8.8 rear 4 link

[delmar foote]

i have an 8.8 adjustable 4 link with coil overs .
asking about if i should install a panhard bar or not?
this is a new build 2 months old ls chassic

[Bob Putnam]

You shouldn't add restraints that will conflict with your current geometry - it will create binding and unwanted stress. You might explore how FFR changed from 4 link to a panhard rod.

Or you could leave your stuff alone.

[Dave Cleveland]

You might want to ask Bob Kallio at Midstates. He built a 4-link with panhard bar and coil-overs for my 8.8. It's working great. He could probably answer some questions for you.

(402) 654-2772

Dave

[jdean]

If you are using the standard LS 4-link setup, you MUST use a panhard rod.

This setup is similar to the traditional straightline hotrod, roadster 4 link. If you do not use a panhard here, there is nothing keeping the rear end in place from side-to-side.

It is different than the late model Mustang 8.8" triangulated 4 link that does not need a panhard.

Look at which set-up you have and you can answer your question.

John

[Bob Putnam]

Well , I learn something new every day. My question is, has Mr. Foot been driving it without the panhard rod?

[STOLIE]

Originally posted by Bob Putnam
Well , I learn something new every day. My question is, has Mr. Foot been driving it without the panhard rod?

[Dave Cleveland]

Stolie,
The answer to that question is, the kit that's best for you.

There's several question you need to answer for yourself.

How much mechanical skill do you have?
How much money can you spend?
How authentic do you want your Cobra to be?
What is the reputation of your prospective kit manufacturers?
Do they have a manual?
How is their support?
What kind of assembly stages do they come in?
On and on and on.

I suggest you get all the literature you can from all the mfg. you are interested in, an compare them against each other. Get the answers to the questions above and any others you may have.
LOOK at each mfg.s car, both finished and in raw fiberglass. look at their frames and all the other parts. Go to some big car shows were there's sure to be some Cobras. You'll be able to see several mnufacturers in one place.

Basically, prepare yourself in whatever way you can so that in the end you get exactly the car you want. You're going to spend a fair chunk of change on a Cobra Replica, you don't want to be disappointed by your decision in the end.

I chose a Midstates because when it was all said and done, it was the best car for me. But that doesn't mean it's the best car for you.

My $.02

P.S. Here are some, and this just my opinion, that are very good kits. There are no doubt some I missed, but this is a good start.

Midstates (of course)
ERA
Kirkham
Everett Morrison
A & C
Unique
Johnex

As I said, there are more. (So don't flame me if I missed some)

Dave

[got snake?]

STOLIE,
To add to Mr. Cleveland's post:

Every decision on a cobra is a compromise, like life.
Who will drive the car? (wife kids etc...)
I am going with Midstates also.
Isn't FFR in Mass? Hmmm they are local to you. Easy to reach them. That would go in the pro's list.
Have fun doing the research! It will be crazy and very informative.

GS

[got snake?]

Mr. Cleveland,

Do you have a soft top or Tonneau cover? How do you like it and where did you get it? Thank you!

GS

[Dave Cleveland]

Nope, don't have either.
I never drive my car when it's raining or looks like rain so I've never really wanted to part with the money for one. The only thing I've considered is the Tonneau cover because sometimes at the car shows it does rain, and the cover would just keep the inside from getting wet.
Who knows, maybe someday I'll break down and by a top. But if I do, it'll be the soft top so I can put it in the trunk.

Oh...and call me Dave.

[Scott S]

I had a Lone Star with the 8.8 rearend, you don't need a panhard bar for street or just some fun turns on a open track. The biggest problem I had was to get the pinion angle correct. I really had to shorten up the upper control arms a bunch.

Scott S

[jdean]

Scott S:

You must have not had the competition LS frame.

I think the competition version uses the straight 4 link.

Did yours have the regular Mustang angled control arms? If so you do not need a panhard rod.

John

[delmar foote]

Thank you all for the info. Scott S. thanks that is what i wanted to know.I have seen the info on FFR 3 link and was hoping to see some info on thar change from the ford 4 link. pros + cons .
The motor is at the engine shop and just started 6 weeks ago on this project. Chassic and brakes done starting on first body fitting. No I am not driving it just hoping to soon .

[Scott S]

jdean,

I had one of the first "street" versions they made, it came with mounts for the late model mustang 8.8 rearend.

Del,

I was trying to figure out the new FFR 3 link also for a new project I am building, I don't think it would easily adapt to the LS frame. Just wondering what front end did LS supply for your kit?

Scott S

[jdean]

It is on the eary 90's Aerostar van that comes with the 8.8" rear end. Most of these vans had the weaker 7.5" though.

The 8.8 from the Aerostar has the upper single (or 3rd) control arm mount cast into the housing. I adapted this rear end for my Classic Roadster kit. Of course I did use a long panhard rod as well.

I decided to do this after hearing from some FFR owners about the difference in handling the 3 link will make.

Like the "street" LS chassis, and the FFR, the Classic frame is designed for the stock 8.8 Mustang style 4 link, just with shorter lower arms.

The car is not finished yet, but I am curious how it will handle.

[delmar foote]

Scott
It came with LS A arms upper & lower , A. eagle shocks and F. river rack.
After going to LS shop the front clip seems to be the same as there comp. frame.
As for the 3 link I ask Jason at LS and they hab no info about that for there cars. I was looking for more details about # link improving the handling of the car or if it just gives more adjustments in the rear.

[Dior55]

Originally posted by Scott S
jdean,

I was trying to figure out the new FFR 3 link also for a new project I am building, I don't think it would easily adapt to the LS frame.

Scott S

I would think that any frame built to take a stock 8.8 rear end off a Fox body Mustang would permit you to add FFR's 3-link. You should be able to install the 3-link on a stock 87-93 Mustang too. The only area where there might be a problem is where the top (3rd) link longitudinally crosses the rear end and bolt onto the bracket mounted aft and above the rear end.

[jdean]

Once you solve fabricating a bracket on the upper rear chassis for the longitudinal 3rd adjustable arm, coming from the rear end bracket, you still have to mount the panhard rod.

You don't necessarily need the one from FFR, which I like because it is long, but you need both the rear end and chassis mounts for it.

John

[delmar foote]

JDEAN
do you have any pictures of your upper link mounting?
I think ffr kit will not work for me no clearance between axle and frame to make upper bar angles right.
The pandar bar and brkt. would be you problem if the 3 link would fit.
The LS frame would almost be easier to add reg. 4 link to the outside of frame with pandar .
I just keep going around the frame with the axle there ,could not wate so I put soom adjustable ford 8.8 links with heims together in the shop for now .

[jdean]

Delmar,

There is a pic on my build site at www.pbase.com/jdean

It is a top view of the rear end. Note that this rear end was from an Aerostar van that comes from Ford with a 3 link already, so as you can see the mount on the rear end was already cast into it. The only thing I did was add a single adjustable upper mount to it. I also welded the mount tabs for it to the frame.

If you look closely you can also see the panhard rod.

John