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Alternate shocks or hack the wheel wells on a Shell Valley?
Well, my Shell Valley is almost completed except the front body is just too low. My tires will not fit in the wheel well and let me turn at all. I'm sort of thinking I could use alternative coill overs that are longer and maybe raise the wheel well by an inch or so.
Or I guess I hack the front wheel wells and waste a $5K paint job. Anybody have any ideas or expierience on this? ACC427US |
You didn't put the wheels on and test fit everything before paint? I would try raising the front end a bit first, by adjusting the coilover shocks so the whole front end sits higher. What about smaller tires on the front. Is the offset on the wheels correct, or are the fronts sticking out too far? The last thing I would do is body mods, and only after everything else failed to work satisfactory.
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I agree that body mods have got to be the absolute last resort. The mechanic I had working on it said "don't worry" we'll just set the coil overs tighter. He then painted it and guess what? tightening the coilovers didn't work. In the mechanic's defense, he's never built a Shell Valley. I've considered smaller tires. In fact, he is recommending it. However, my flywheel is already about 2" off the ground. I can't even sneeze without bottoming out!
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Is the body set too far down on the frame? Or is the front suspension set too low. These things use Mustang II front suspensions, don't they? If so, there should be several options to get it set up corectly for ride height.
What do you have for suspension components, and how is it presently set up? |
If your flywheel is only 2" off the ground, then get the front end higher. I like the look of savagely low cars, but getting the scattershield stuck on the pavement while pulling into the donut shop is no fun.
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I'm having a similar problem with my CMC. The standard shocks and springs gave me the right ride height , but a hard bump would let the wheel flare hit the tire. I put on tubular upper and lower A arms and Carrera coil over with 500# springs. I have the adjuster nut half way up the threads and yet a hard bump still bottoms out on the flare. It's a mustang II front end and my fronts wheels are sticking out about 3/4" on the passenger side and 1 1/4" on the driver 's side. I'm scratching my head.
Popeye |
Mr Fixit,
I totally agree with getting the front end higher but how? I'm thinking longer shocks/springs? What else? |
Before you do anything drastic tell us what you have. I have a Shell Valley with a 351W and have no problems with the front ride hight. Are you using the correct back spacing for the wheels and tire size that Shell Valley recomends. What spring rate are you using? Do you have strut rods or not? Please tell us what you have so we can help or call Shell Valley and talk to Dana, he has been a good to deal with and will get you the answer you need.
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Popeye, If you have that much difference from side to side I would think that the body is nit centered correctly. I wish I had look closer at you car at the Sundance Grill.
One other thing is I think if you are running the 11 inch disc it adds about 3/4 inch to each side. Ray Hedden:D :D :D |
Just a thought, are you using dropped spindles? These can lower the front end by 1-1/2 to 2 inches. On the subject of wheel offset, some disc brake conversions move the wheels out ....about 7/8" I think. MH
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Do you have the tubular or stamped arms? I have only had the front tires rub once, ant that was with a 350# passenger and a road with lots of small shortly spaced hills at 80-90mph. I also have lots of adjustment left to raise the front end more, but it looks about the same as most others as it sits.
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I've got a Shell Valley with a 351W and it has never rubbed the fenders at all. I still have plenty of adjustment on my Koni shocks and 350# springs with tubular arms. I suspect a backspacing problem or a misalignment of the body and frame. I'll try to think to take some measurements tonight at home for you to compare to your setup.
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Just a thought (because I did this). Is it possable that you may have the rear coils on the front and the front on the rear. They should be softer on the rear. Worth checking.
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Dirty Harry,
What kind of Koni shocks are you running on front? Type? Part #? Source? Been looking for Koni to convert my MII front. |
I'm using BFG T/A's, size 235/60-15 on KMC wheels. From the ground to the top of the wheel opening is 26". From the ground to the top of the front snout opening is 20". I don't remember the backspacing on the wheels, but my LH tire is flush with the outside of the fender flare. The RH tire is just a touch outside that. I hope this information helps. I've never had a tire rubbing problem. Good luck.
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Jack21...
I have the tubular upper and lower arms with a strut. The Konis that I am using are Special (D) 82162027. The have 12 adjustment positions for firmness. They are a vast improvement over my first setup. |
Dirty Harry,
Also have tubular upper & lower control arm with strut. Using Carerra coil-overs, w/375# spring. Carerras have 3 position adjustment. Not bad, but would like to replace them with Koni's. Using Koni's in rear (80-2355), and they work great. Are your Koni's coil over? Where'd you get them? |
Jack21...
Yes, my Konis are coil over arrangement. I just went to my local speed shop and complained about the early death of my original shocks and the helpful counterman just whipped them out. At the same time, I changed to a 350# spring. Thanks for the part # on your rears. I want to change out my rears soon, as one has upchucked all its oil. I think the ones I had originally were junk, because 3 of the 4 have failed on a car that I have less than 5000 miles on. I'll take a look at that # Koni to see if it will help me. Did you see the measurements I posted earlier? Are they similar to yours? |
Ron, This might be a dumb question but how would I tell if the front and back coils are backwards, other than just switch them?
The car is about 100 miles away in Manteca with the mechanic so I'll have to drive up there to measure but I'm getting desperate. |
Dirty Harry,
I'm guessing that there isn't a lot of difference between a Shell Valley, and a Classic Roadsters suspension wise. '74 - '78 MII front, '79 - up late Mustang rear. Rear I'm using is mid-'80's Mustang 8.8. The spring recommended by CR is a Chevette spring. The spring I'm using is a Moog Chevette station wagon, progressive wound, load leveller spring which is about the only replacement spring available for Chevettes. But they're available at any parts store, they're cheap ($76), and they work exceptionally well. The progressive wound feature limits rear end squat on accelleration. The shocks were cross referenced to a Koni from the original Volkswagen and Monroe part numbers. If the Koni 80-2355 is a problem, I'll give you the VW and Monroe part # to cross reference. Anyway, the shocks have a compressed length of 10 9/16", and an extended length of 16 1/4". Why do I like Koni's? Yes, they're a little pricey, but the suspension control for handling and cornering is unparalled, and they last the life of the car. Well in excess of 100,000 miles. |
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