Tremec: changing fluid
 

I have never changed transmission fluid in a manual transmission. Curious if anyone is using the Ultimate Tremec Transmission Treatment fluid from Performance Unlimited. I am curious as to a few things, the most embarassing is: where do you drain it, is there a filter, does the car need to be level, in gear, neutral, (ok that was the first question:p ) then the rest of the usual questions, what weight manual (gear?) oil should be used for spirited street use and occasional track course time. How much of the Ultimate Tremec Transmission Treatment is mixed in or do you not need it. How often should it be changed, is there an additive that adds to the life of the transmision? Many thanks for anyone willing to share their suggestions.

You don't use gear oil...You need to use Synchromesh Fluid. Judging from your questions, I would suggest you let a professional mechanic do it...

thanks for the vote of caution, but I asked for help not discouragement. This really isn't that complicated, I just haven't done it before. Asking for help is something I do pretty often on this site, I have also provided answers to other folks' questions. This forum facilitates a tremendous exchange of ideas. I have been able to fix stuff myself on a previous cobra that 2 mechanics could not. They couldn't fix a stiff clutch problem, diagnose a worn out shock, and a few other problems. I was able to fix all those problems with the help of folks on this forum and with just a little tenacity.

Changing out the fluid in the tranny I am confident I can handle, I just need a few questions answered, and given that the entire 51 page service manual (see link below) for the Tremec doesn't have a maintenance section, with fluid capacities, etc. I thought I would ask for help with this basic service from a group where likely 100 or more folks have done this on a Tremec. So even if a full time mechanic has done 1000 manual transmission servicings, he probably hasn't worked on a cobra, and likely never a Tremec, never heard of the "Ultimate Tremec" additive I mentioned earlier either. I know you're only trying to be helpful, but this shouldn't be that hard, I just want to do it right, with the benefit of knowing the mistakes others made.

http://www.ttcautomotive.com/English...-0510-0199.pdf

Franky,

It's pretty easy, really. The car doen't have to be all that level. Just take out the bottom plug and let it drain out. I usually let it drain for a few hours to get all the old stuff out, then, put the drain plug back in. Unscrew the filler plug (on the passenger side) and fill it with 2.75 quarts of fresh fluid. I use a cheap plastic pump from an auto parts store that screws into the quart bottles. You pump it up and into the transmission through a clear plastic tube. Keep going until it starts coming out of the filler hole. Then replace the filler plug. It's a good workout for the hands and forearms.

One tip, I like to epoxy a small magnet to the drain plug to collect any metal bits that wear off the gears.

To answer your other questions:

"I have never changed transmission fluid in a manual transmission. Curious if anyone is using the Ultimate Tremec Transmission Treatment fluid from Performance Unlimited."

No. I have used standard ATF and Red Line fluid. The standard ATF shifted better. Next time, I will use the GM Sychromesh fluid recommended by Hal Copple.

"I am curious as to a few things, is there a filter"

No filter.

"Does the car need to be level?"

It should be relatively level.

"In gear?"

Doesn't matter.

"What weight manual (gear?) oil should be used for spirited street use and occasional track course time?"

Manual gear oil is 75/85 weight. Tremecs use much lighter automatic transmission fluid.

"How much of the Ultimate Tremec Transmission Treatment is mixed in or do you not need it?"

I don't know, haven't used it. Don't like "Snake oil".

How often should it be changed?"

Every 15,000 miles.

"Is there an additive that adds to the life of the transmision?"

There are lots of high-priced gimmick lubricants. Stay far away from them. They will cause you grief.

"Many thanks for anyone willing to share their suggestions."

You're welcome! :D

Paul

Frankym,

The Tremec tranny fluid that Perf. Unlimited sells is a fairly new product. I have only heard of one person that has used it so far but they seemed to really think it performed better then whatever they were using before. Personally, I don't have any complaints about how my Tremec shifts. I am using Syncromesh. Others may disagree. If you are happy with the way your car shifts, I wouldn't change it, if not, call Perf. Unl. and talk to Randy. I think there's also an additive that you can use with other fluids. Also, consider joining SCOF, the SPF owners forum, lots of really nice folks with sooooo much experience with these cars (spf's) it's not even funny!

John
spf1421

I, and a few other I know, switched from the GM Syncromest to BG Syncroshift. I believe it shifts smoother but it's a subjective thing. I also put in a Pro 5.0 shifter which made all the difference in the world.

Roscoe

Roscoe-
I have a question for you. Based on your recommendation (read that if it sucks I'm blaming you- just kidding:D ) I bought a Pro 5.0 for my TKO II. Since I don't have the car yet (coming soooon) and nothing better to do, I installed the new shifter on the trans the other day.

Here's the question:

The stock shifter had a plastic cup on the end of the shifter mechanism where it engaged the gear selector inside the transmission.

I took off the plastic cup and installed it on the bottom of the 5.0 shifter and then bolted it on the transmission. However, since my 5.0 shifter came with no instructions, I was wondering if I was supposed to use that plastic cup.

Did you reuse it or install the 5.0 shifter without it?

Thanks,
Mike

Mike,
Geez....I don't think I used it. May be worth a call to them. They are in Kenilworth, NJ. If you contact them let me know.
http://www.pro-50.com/

UPDATE: I just went into the garage and checked the old box. My old shifter still has that short piece of tubing on it so I guess I didn't use it after all. Shifts fine.

Roscoe

Roscoe,

I've noticed with the RedLine oil in my 3550, I sometimes miss the shift to second gear. Does the Barry Grant stuff work better for speed shifting?

Paul

Sure, blame it on the trans fluid:LOL: :p :D

Paul,
In this case, BG does not stand for Barry Grant but BG Products

BG Products, Inc.
PO Box 1282
Wichita, KS 67201
Phone: 800-961-6228
Fax: 316-265-1082
Website: http://www.bgprod.com

Roscoe

Roscoe,

Thanks

Paul

Chaplin: Absolutely!

FrankyM: Definately go with the Ultra Shift. It is the correct transmission fluid with the correct additives.

1. Drain plug is lower plug on the right side of the transmission. Use a cresent wrench or equivalent, remove and drain old fluid.
2. Replace drain plug
3. Fill plug is just above drain plug. Remove and with funnel and hose inserted into drain hole fill with about 2 3/4ths quarts of Ultra Shift.
4. Replace fill plug-----------------you're done.

Good luck

Franky:
I've been using Red Line MTL with good results for a couple of years now. Just my $0.02 worth.

Bob

Red Line
 

Yea I'm also using the Red Line MTL. Its workin for me!

I'd definately stay away from the oil treatments. The product may be wonderful, but think of it this way; you should be trying to solve or prevent a problem. What problem do you have when using the syncromesh? BTW, here is a link to a product description of the stuff... http://www.pennzoil-quakerstate.com/...omeshFluid.PDF

By adding an oil additive, you may be causing more problems than you are fixing. You can alter the viscosity index, the EHD lube film (acronym for a long word that basically means the lube film thickness between the gearing or bearing elements), and other factors. It looks like the product is meant to improve the friction coefficient to provide better shifting. Again, only use stuff like this to solve a problem.

The most important function of the oil in a gearbox is to keep the metal parts from touching each other. Sometimes this is done with additives at the manufacturer (EP oils), or aftermarket additives (slick 50, STP, etc.). I design, and the company I work for manufactures gearboxes for industrial equipment up to 2000 hp and high speed boxes up to 50,000 rpm and we never use an aftermarket additive, and almost never use an EP oil. The critical factors are viscosity, and viscosity index.

Other than the pain in the rear of getting oil in and out of the transmission, oil changes on a manual trans are fairly painless. As already mentioned, the higher plug (generally near centerline) is the fill, the bottom is a drain. Fill until the oil comes out of the plug hole. The PDF manual that you indicated has a 3 qt capacity listed on pg 44.

Frankym,
Like changing your engine oil get everything up to temp first...pull the plug.
Join scof and then find out in detail about what is in the U shift fluid and all the work/testing that was done to produce this stuff.

curtis

My 3550 shifted just a tad better with BG Synchromesh II, the synthetic fluid, had used Redline D4, and MTL.

I do think you should drain it hot, that way you get out all the tiny microscopic brass synchro particles, i just stick a plastic tube into the fill hole, run it up side the passengers side of the motor, put a funnel on it, and slowly pour in warm trans fluid, mine takes just a tad under 3 quarts. When it runs out, alongside the fillhose, just pull it out, and put the fill plug back in.

thanks for all the suggestions, Hal, I may have just misread the chronology of putting the drain plug back in, at first I just thought you meant for it to read like you are supposed to reintall the plug before filling, but then I thought maybe you were flushing it out a little with new fluid before sealing it and refilling it. thanks much,

frank

I ordered the Pro-5 shifter from cobra valley with the boot. Everyone seems to think that thing makes the shifting much smoother. some new blood and a new shifter sounds like a good way to spend a sunday morning!

Frank,
If you are using the reversed shifter handle you can order the pro 5.0 direct without the handle and save 35 bucks.
Roscoe