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Hood scoop question regarding rivets
Hi I have drilled the holes for my hoodscoop, thru the hood opening and the aluminum liner on the under side of the hood.
I was told to use a backing washer with the all aluminum 1/8" rivtets. Did anyone else use backing washers? I could see the need if it simply fiberglass. But with the aluminum skin/liner is it still needed? Are the backing washers now a better choice on the top or head side of the rivet? Thats where the fiberglass and paint are at risk on squeezing the rivet off. The washers I do have are a small SS #4, They fit the rivet nicely. If possible can someone show me a close up pic of thier riveted hood scoop front and back side? Thanks Tim |
Tim:
There is really no structural stress on this application ie: trying to pull it apart. As long as the length is acceptable to allow sufficient "bucking" of the rivet without the washer I would not use one as they are not particularly attractive IMO. Suggest aluminum rivet as the steel or stainless rivets might compress surface of fiberglass glass too much before "popping." Might try on a sample if you can simulate application. Would prefer stainless if it can be used. Rick |
On many cobras, the hoodscoop is bonded, so the rivets are just cosmetic. In that case, I just glue the rivets into the holes after removing the pull piece.
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I riveted the scoop on my FFR. I did not use any backing washers.
http://a3.cpimg.com/image/01/5A/1445...-028001E0-.jpg http://a3.cpimg.com/image/61/B8/1055...-028001E0-.jpg Mike |
Have just uploaded some pictures to my gallery. As you can see mine came out of the AC factory with washers. Hood is aluminium and scoop is glass.
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Anybody ever make the scoop removable? Maybe use Dzus fasteners. That way the tall injector stacks can stick out!
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Quote:
The reason for this is to be able to remove the scoop and fit different scoop heights depending on manifold, carb, Injection system type etc. I think that they look good and they work very well. (Of course, nothing that JBL does is like the original.) |
Like Fixit said, I remove the center, dremel the top surface and glue them in with double-strength super glue. On mine, vibration tends to work them loose from time to time.
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As usual guys thanks for the replies and info/pictures.
Pderouss in your pic, does this shot have an inner metal hood liner as well. I assume AC is aluminum bodied http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...t=1&thecat=500 The washers in your pics are as I was told to use them. Mike, any helpful words of advice on squeezin off pop rivets on the freshly painted hood and scoop when attaching the two? Masking tape or something to protect to area should the sucker "POP" uncontrollably? A towel laid down ...or how about putting something like tape on the snout/nose of the rivet gun? Tim |
Whaler.
It is aluminium bodied and the hood has no liner. It does have a silver heat reflective silver paint finish that had a hammerered surface. You can see the texture of this in the close up shot of the rivet. It may be a suitable alternative to an alloy liner for glass bodied cars. I'm not sure what the paint used is, it may be Hammerite. |
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