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04-24-2003, 08:58 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Canada's beautiful West Coast,
Posts: 723
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Not Ranked
Hood scoop question regarding rivets
Hi I have drilled the holes for my hoodscoop, thru the hood opening and the aluminum liner on the under side of the hood.
I was told to use a backing washer with the all aluminum 1/8" rivtets. Did anyone else use backing washers? I could see the need if it simply fiberglass. But with the aluminum skin/liner is it still needed?
Are the backing washers now a better choice on the top or head side of the rivet? Thats where the fiberglass and paint are at risk on squeezing the rivet off. The washers I do have are a small SS #4, They fit the rivet nicely.
If possible can someone show me a close up pic of thier riveted hood scoop front and back side?
Thanks
Tim
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04-25-2003, 09:32 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: May 2001
Location: California,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: NAF 289 Slabside Early Comp Car with 289 Webers and all the goodies. Cancelling the efforts of several Priuses
Posts: 6,592
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Not Ranked
Tim:
There is really no structural stress on this application ie: trying to pull it apart. As long as the length is acceptable to allow sufficient "bucking" of the rivet without the washer I would not use one as they are not particularly attractive IMO. Suggest aluminum rivet as the steel or stainless rivets might compress surface of fiberglass glass too much before "popping." Might try on a sample if you can simulate application. Would prefer stainless if it can be used.
Rick
__________________
Rick
As you slide down the Banister of Life, may the splinters never be pointing the wrong way 
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04-25-2003, 09:55 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2002
Location: so cal,
Cal
Cobra Make, Engine: I used to fix them for a living
Posts: 2,563
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Not Ranked
On many cobras, the hoodscoop is bonded, so the rivets are just cosmetic. In that case, I just glue the rivets into the holes after removing the pull piece.
__________________
In a fit of 16 year old genius, I looked down through the carb while cranking it to see if fuel was flowing, and it was. Flowing straight up in a vapor cloud, around my head, on fire.
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04-25-2003, 11:05 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Canada's beautiful West Coast,
Posts: 723
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04-25-2003, 11:33 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: Gilford,
NH
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 302 carb
Posts: 8,121
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Not Ranked
I riveted the scoop on my FFR. I did not use any backing washers.
Mike |
04-25-2003, 02:19 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Essex, England,
Posts: 175
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Have just uploaded some pictures to my gallery. As you can see mine came out of the AC factory with washers. Hood is aluminium and scoop is glass.
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04-25-2003, 03:20 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: Tucson, AZ,
AZ
Cobra Make, Engine: FFR 1137 EFI 347
Posts: 118
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Anybody ever make the scoop removable? Maybe use Dzus fasteners. That way the tall injector stacks can stick out!
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04-25-2003, 08:25 PM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Fallbrook, CA USA,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: Porsche 928 S4
Posts: 739
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Not Ranked
Quote:
Originally posted by mikief
Anybody ever make the scoop removable? Maybe use Dzus fasteners. That way the tall injector stacks can stick out!
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JBL uses stainless sockethead cap screws (Either button head or normal) with nylock nuts on the inside to install the scoop.
The reason for this is to be able to remove the scoop and fit different scoop heights depending on manifold, carb, Injection system type etc.
I think that they look good and they work very well. (Of course, nothing that JBL does is like the original.) |
04-25-2003, 10:16 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 1,112
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Like Fixit said, I remove the center, dremel the top surface and glue them in with double-strength super glue. On mine, vibration tends to work them loose from time to time.
__________________
Bill Malone
Gashole
CSX4786
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04-25-2003, 11:37 PM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Aug 1999
Location: Canada's beautiful West Coast,
Posts: 723
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As usual guys thanks for the replies and info/pictures.
Pderouss in your pic, does this shot have an inner metal hood liner as well.
I assume AC is aluminum bodied
http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/s...t=1&thecat=500
The washers in your pics are as I was told to use them.
Mike, any helpful words of advice on squeezin off pop rivets on the freshly painted hood and scoop when attaching the two?
Masking tape or something to protect to area should the sucker "POP" uncontrollably? A towel laid down ...or how about putting something like tape on the snout/nose of the rivet gun?
Tim |
04-26-2003, 01:12 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Feb 2003
Location: Essex, England,
Posts: 175
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Whaler.
It is aluminium bodied and the hood has no liner. It does have a silver heat reflective silver paint finish that had a hammerered surface. You can see the texture of this in the close up shot of the rivet. It may be a suitable alternative to an alloy liner for glass bodied cars. I'm not sure what the paint used is, it may be Hammerite.
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