Hydraulic Throw Out Bearing
 

Because the "search" is not working, I'm posting this thread . . .

Recently went on a short trip. Upon my return (about 2.5 miles from home) I lost all clutch pressure. The pedal seemed to "go away" gradually. I've burst a pressure feed line before, so I know what that feels like . . . in this case, each time I stopped at at traffic light, I had to push the clutch further and further to the floor to shift gears . . . and then I couldn't shift at all (out of fluid, I guess) end of story, I had to get towed home.

Anyway, I've read several other threads concerning these types of throwout/clutch release bearings, but I can't seem to find them.

I believe the one I currently have is a McCleod (not exactly sure by memory) and I understand that the "O" rings can fail, or have been replaced with a more durable material. Also by recollection, I remember someone mentioning something about a "Tilton" or "Hayes" hydraulic throwout bearing.

FYI: I have a Toploader 4 Speed, and have the large threaded adjustment collar mounted with gasket and 4 bolts over the input shaft.

I would be interested in repair suggestions, alternative suppliers for parts, and/or a reputable mechanic in the St. Clair Shores, Michigan area to do the work. I've had the tranny out of the car twice already for other repairs/upgrades and it's a PITA to work on.

Any/all ideas, suggestions would be appreciated . . . Woodward Dream Cruise is only a few weeks away!

I've had a Tilton bearing installed now for over 20k miles. The key to it is the proper spacing on the shaft and the PEDAL STOP to prevent too much travel on the bearing which will blow the seals. Sounds like you overdid it.

Did you have a pedal stop?

Roscoe

I also have a hydraulic throw out bearing.

My issue is a bit different. The engagement point of the pedal varies. Sometimes it is after the normal bit of play is taken up and other times it is further down the stroke of the pedal.

I have had the system bled twice with no change. There are no leaks. One stable pattern is that after I drive up a hill and then come slightly down hill the pedal is always firm with normal play.
Any ideas, guys?

Thanks, Mike

Mike,
I think you still have air in there somewhere.
Roscoe

Mcleod has designed a new unit. Mine failed and I was able to trade my old unit in towards one of the new ones. Their new design eliminates the Banjo joints which were a common point of failure

Thanks Roscoe-I think you're right.

What do you think about bleeding the system with the front and then the rear of the car elevated to try and get the bubble out?

Sure, why not? Also consider one of those vacuum things for bleeding. Take a good look at your lines and see where air could be trapped (high points?)

Roscoe

Thanks for the help, guys. Come to think of it, a pedal stop is the one thing I forgot to install. I may have overdone it!

Thanks again.

Any suggestions on pedal stop design? I'm thinking a block mounted on the firewall with an adjustable bolt and jamb nut.
Thoughts on this?

Also, did any of you guys do your own work or have it done at a shop?

I cut a piece of aluminum angle stock and trimed to fit for my pedal stop. I also forgot to install one and blew out a fitting.
Live and learn.

Because of the way my clutch box and firewall are designed I choose to use a chain. I bolted the top of the chain to point on my cowl frame(close to where my windshield frame attaches) and then I extended my clutch to the furtherest point I want to engage my clutch. Extended my chain to just shy of that point and cut the chain. Drilled a hole through the top of my pedal and attached my chain. WHALA! Clutch stop. Bought some vinyl tubing to slide my chain through and no rattle. Works great and easy to do but I admit that it is a little primative.

Clois

I did the installation myself. My Tilton pedal set has a bolt in the back of the pedal that acts as a stop.

Roscoe

Thanks for some great ideas. I may have take the firewall approach. As you all know, the Cobra foot wells are small to say the least, not to mention getting my fat a$$ in there to do the work.

Anyway, thanks again for your suggestions, wish me luck!

I'll post again when back on the road.

Just another quick question or two . . .
Where did you get your Tilton Eng. t/o bearing assy and base?
I found them at Summit racing . . . $400 for both items, what did you have to pay?

Also, have any of you switched from a hydraulic t/o to a mechanical fork type with slave? If so, where did you get all the parts? I'm primarily interested in a Ford 460 setup, with Hays bellhousing and Dan Williams Top Loader 4 spd. Just wondering if one is better than the other in terms of durability and/or ease of use . . . My clutch is a 3 finger type and has a very "heavy" pedal to operate. Would a diaphram type be easier on my left leg or would switching to a "fork" type t/o bearing be better, both neither. or which combo?
Thanks for your input.

McLeod has a new throwout bearing design
 

Guys,

For over a year McLeod has had a NEW t/o bearing...it is the GM Corvette design, GM abandoned the patten.

It eliminates the god-awful BANJO fittings.

I have the VERY FIRST preproduction unit in my ERA 289 FIA...16 months later, 3000 miles of Los Angeles stop and go, shift, shift, shift, it works fine...it is still "dry" when you reach in through the bell housing.

If you have the old unit, DO NOT REBUILD IT...Call McLeod, they will retrofit the new housing at a nominal cost, last I heard.

Unless your time is worth dirt, it is worth what you have to pay for the new/upgrade, it may be free, I dunno.

Then, you MUST limit pedal travel...I used a bolt throught the foot box with several nuts to lock, and stablilize it to the clutch pedal, and adjusted it to just release...if it overextends, YOU screwed up...not McLeod.

In any event, send it back, they will upgrade it.

You will then be happy.

Pete

Thanks for the info on McLeod, however I just ordered my new Tilton Engineering t/o bearing and base today. I think I'll keep my McLeod and return another day.

I think I will do the same set-up regarding the pedal stop. . . bolt and nuts. Did you tack weld anything? I would like some input as to the trick of establishing the pedal stop distance . . . trial an error? Put it in gear while car is on an incline and push clutch pedal down until the car rolls? Also, did you attempt to duplicate the angle of the pedal arm in any way i.e.: angle block, rubber etc??

Thanks again for da input,

Kim

Kim,
Tilton has some good documentation on setting up the clutch. They include the pedal stop setup. Also, their tech line has always been very helpful.

Roscoe

pedal stop
 

Kim,

On my pedal stop I used about a 6" long 3/8's bolt through the foot box.

Just went through the foot box at 90 degrees, the back of the clutch pedal isn't prepindicular, but close enough. (When drilling the hole, visualize the arc the pedal goes through, so the bolt will be high enough to stop the clutch at the point the clutch releases, not where the pedal would hit the back of the foot box if you swung it full travel)

I added a large diameter fender washer on both sides where it goes through the fiberglass to keep that from splitting out.

The bolt on my ERA 289 sticks into the footbox about four inches. Used an old poly suspension stop as a spacer and a few nuts and washers...the poly spacer does not do any shock absorbing, but it is 2 inches across at the bottom, and may help to keep the bolt from rocking if the alignment to the cluch pedal isn't perfect.

Trial and error on the height, if the gears drag, add a little more.

I do not remember the spec for max over the unit can go, but a ~ 3/8" travel after clutch release may be max...just so the clutch is releasing and a little more.

A rubber/poly bumper would be nice, but not necessary.

Pete

Roscoe,
Am eagerly awaiting delivery of new Tilton hydraulic assy and base. Will read all literature before proceeding. Thanks for your input.

Pete,
Sounds like a plan that will work for me. An added bonus is that the foot wells on a West Coast Cobra are all metal, not to mention that the firewall is at least .100 thick. . . should be plenty strong. I have some urethane snubbers laying around the garage somewhere, perhaps I'll put them to good use in this application. Thanks for the info/guidance.

Kim

I've had the tranny in and out of my car twice and have done the work myself. Has anyone had the work done for them? If so, what would be a fair amount to pay?

Kim

Kim,
I'd be cautious about farming it out. Not many know from hydraulic bearings and you probably know more about them than they do. It's really not that hard if you take your time and use their tech line for advice.
Roscoe