Electrical Prob - power to fan switch

RedBarchetta · #1 (**permalink**) 08-27-2004, 08:54 AM

This one has me stumped. The other night I was out giving an old friend a ride in the Cobra and the manual override fan switch would not operate the fans. When I got home the thermostat switch brought them both up for a moment, so I knew the fans were operational. I also recently replaced the fan switch and I'm 100% certain that is fine (please read further).

I crawled my 6'3" frame under the dash to check the other connections from the fan switch to the main and I noticed that the fat red wire leading from the switch was hanging in thin air. The other two red wires that come from the other plug on the switch are spliced into the main harness just underneath the passenger side of the dash. So I ran a jumper from this fat red wire straight to the battery and, wouldn't you know, the fans started whirring.

So, I look and I look and I look and I can't figure out for the life of me where this hot lead plugs into on my Superformance!

The other peculiar thing about the connector on the end of this fat wire is that it is a male connector with a shroud, not the typical female connector one would expect.

While I was under there I also noticed that both the fuse block and another plate that holds some relays had worked themselves loose from the backside of the dash plate (double stick tape had been used prior). So I affixed some industrial strength velcro to them and now I can easily remove them for servicing in the future.

Any SPF owners that can help me with finding the hot lead to plug in the fan switch would be greatly appreciated!

-Deano

Mr.Fixit · #2 (**permalink**) 08-27-2004, 09:37 AM

I don't think SPF's in your #range came standard with a manual fan switch. I have added a few, but they were just a switched ground conection, not a hot lead.

The male connector makes me think it gets plugged into a "piggyback connector" but I am only guessing what somebody did to your car.

trularin · #3 (**permalink**) 08-27-2004, 01:04 PM

Red, I tried to use the velcro on a fuse block and the darn think dropped ont he floor after a short while. Is there any way to use a ty wrap or somehting more permanent?

Just my $0.02

RedBarchetta · #4 (**permalink**) 08-27-2004, 01:15 PM

I bought a strip of the "Industrial Strength" stuff....it's 10x stronger than the regular brands. If that doesn't work, then I'll mix up a little epoxy and bond the @#$@& thing back how it was from the factory.

The other dilemma I have is that my car only has the one fuse box under the passenger side, but the manuals that came with car indicate two. So I have the older manuals and I'll need to procur some more up-to-date ones so that the wiring schematics make sense.

Mr.Fixit · #5 (**permalink**) 08-27-2004, 02:47 PM

The other one is under the hood, driver's side, near the washer bottle. It only has a couple of fuses in it.

RedBarchetta · #6 (**permalink**) 08-27-2004, 02:51 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Mr.Fixit

The other one is under the hood, driver's side, near the washer bottle. It only has a couple of fuses in it.

You are correct, sir! I was able to find that one. You would think it would be easy to find where a connector came undone from?!? Honestly, it's like it just materialized and there is no where to plug it into! I'll have to just take a closer look at the wire loom itself...maybe it's buried in there? It's not a long wire at the wrap point (maybe 12 inches max), so there are not a lot of options for it.

cobrabuilderI · #7 (**permalink**) 08-28-2004, 04:25 AM

Anytime you got a wire "hanging in thin air" is not good. I have a Painless wire harness that uses a relay that runs a hot battery connection like you just described and then 2 wires that make up the swich- either to ignition or manual switch (that's what I did) . When you wired it directly, was the switch on? I suppose it was- but in any event, see if you have a relay somewhere that those wires run to. And for the love of all that is good somehow bolt that block to the fire wall. All that vibration will work whatever you put up there! Painless used all bolted connections even on the relay blocks. Don't know if this helps, but I'll throw it out there.

RedBarchetta · #8 (**permalink**) 08-28-2004, 05:11 PM

FYI, problem solved. Thanks to everyone that dove in.

Mr Fixit was right...this fan switch was added on afterward. The hot lead did plug into somewhat of a piggyback connector. It was actually what I'd call a splice connector that went into another hot lead. It was hard to see because the color of the connector was close to the wire color. An easy fix...much easier with some sunshine to help throw more light into the car.