Dash Material
 

Has anyone used the dash material sold by Cobra Accessories, and if so any comments on the quality or ease of use? Any other suggestions of sources of dash material?

What are the benefits or negatives of using padding behind the dash covering and any suggestions for a backer material (aluminum, plywood, hardboard,....)?

Thanks

:)

I've done this for my own self....but I didn't buy it from Finish Line. I just went to the fabric shop and bought a couple yards of vinyl that matches the original Cobras. It's a lot cheaper that way....like $12.

I too have a Shell, and wanted to go with the authentic approach, so I ordered an aluminum dash panel from Finish Line....that way the gauge holes were already cut and everything was ready. I trimmed it to fit, trimmed the fiberglass behind it so the gauges would stick through, then covered the aluminum in vinyl. Looks great. You can check my gallery.

when you attach your dash material to the dash and are ready to cut out the holes.. here is a small suggestion dont....... cut the holes in the material the same size as the hole in the dash. leave some material to pull in. i know as i cut mine the same size as the holes and guess what when you tighten up your gauges it pulls the gauge in past the material. Just my .02 good luck Neil

Do not use padding behind outer material because when you try to install you switches the thickness of material will stop you from installing the lock nut on to the switch. ( lucas switchs )

Bonos

I used 1/8" foam to pad the dash. Got it from an auto upholstery shop. I used tanned Elk skin I had from a hunting trip to Wyoming. Dyed it black. You can put the switches in but you have to work at it a bit. Dash is now 4 years on the road and still like new.

http://www.priveye.com/dls/dash.jpg

I cut the holes first and mounted the gauges and switches
http://www.priveye.com/cobra/newdash.jpg
then I laid the padding and leather.

Roscoe

Roscoe:
What are you using for rear end ratio? 70MPH at 1000 rpm looks like a pretty high.
DonC

Where did you get that number? Must be a typo. More like 2000 with my 9" 350 posi.

Roscoe

Blykins, Neil, Bonos & Roscoe,

Thanks for the advise, I do appreciate the feedback. I'll call around on Monday to check for availability of material locally.

Blykins used aluminum for the backer plate (to wrap the dash material around), what did others use? Is it fair to assume that contact adhesive spray will keep things together?

Has anyone oversized the gauge holes and then pulled the material through and attached it to the rear or is the best bet to undersize the material slightly like Neil was noting?

I bought a vinyl cover from EM.When I took it to an appolstier.He poo pooed it saying that he could have made a cover at not much charge .My cover dash +all prepared sand blasted painted still took three weeks and $264.Didn't follow instructions anyway had to alter some myself.Make sure that your holes are big enough to allow for vinyl I opened some of the 2 1/16" holes but the large ones like the Tach and speedo are so tight.Clamps didn't add that much. They will not fall out .The three 2 1/16 gauges to the right ,more centeredof dash I tilted towards the driver with the Morso tilted trim bezels.Had to remove the padding around each gauge and reglue vinyl.They take a slightly oval hole.Do not cut the vinyl for gauges and the like untill it has been stretched and glued. I had to put small thin washers around all the switches and indicater lights that had been pre cut by the appolstier.All the indicater lights that I had from before ended up being replaced.The tabs for holding into dash were for bare metal and didn't conform to a padded dash,depth.If ther was any mistakes to be made or problems , I had at least half of them.

Roscoe:
Check your posted photo of the dismounted dash
http://www.priveye.com/cobra/newdash.jpg
DonC

Ahhh...I see. It's my electronic gauges.

Roscoe

I had a stainless steel dash made. 10 ga material, so it's pretty beefy. There are pix in my gallery. Maybe you can tell me how to insert a pic within the email itself - it's not obvious to me.

Anyway, I laid out the dash very accurately and made a heavy paper template. The metal shop then scanned the template, cleaned up the profile on the computer, and pressed the button for the plasma cutter to cut the shape. Then they lightly sanded thr dash horizontally. It's awesome!

I only had to take the sharp edges off. I mounted the dash, outlined the access holes in the fiberglass dash, etc. I used ss hex socket button heads for fasteners. Since the Shell Valley dash has some curve to it, I had to use standoffs between the dash and the fiberglass.

I debated having the opening cut for the glove box but I wanted easy access to the fuse block. I still have to figure out how to hinge the glove box door which isn't made yet. I don't want to go with wood.

I have a second ss dash identical to this one if you are interested. My gauges are AutoMeter.

Dave

I hinged my door with a piano type hinge held in place with some small screws and epoxy.

Roscoe

I had my dash covered by local shop. They used 1/8 foam and vinyl. I used stainless steel to mount the switches. see photo in
gallery.

Stainless Steel.

But make sure you have sharp drills and cutters.

Dave,

Great looking dash. Attached is a link to the FFR web site with a an option for a recessed cabinet hinge door.

http://www.ffcobra.com/FAQ/Interior.html

Thanks! I was actually heading in that general direction. I'll probably have to drill holes and I'm a bit reluctant. I haven't really touched the car since my engine started knocking in April. It's at the shop now. One thing led to another and it's become a 427 with roller lifters, etc. Hope to have it back next week.
Dave

Dash material etc
 

Currently doing my dashboard, I opted for fibreglass, so I could do the curved ends, and correct/repair any faults easier!!

Firstly I am under the impression that the coverings was a coarse type grain vinyl, which I have similar material commonly used on utility vehicles for deck covers. The next trick is to remove the backing from the vinyl......yes my first car is still perfect 15 years later with this thin black skin! Also I personally think dashboards look cr*ppy with padding - so I assume the original never had any!

Cut your holes and with a piece of material make sure the gauge will fit, without forcing it. Use some upholsterers glue, and it should be able to handle heat on a hot day.

You need to sand prep the dash surface, and then glue both surfaces leaving time for solvents and glue to get really tacky, this is critical as all you will get for days is un-cured glue! Next very important to STRETCH the material as you lay it down, as you dont need saggy bits! Also leave plenty of material to go over the back say at least 1.5 -2".

Holes as mentioned in this post cut a cross but dont go near the hole size as you want un-cut material to go under and down the side of gauge, and as it comes over rear edge the cut will start, and the gauge will hold it.

In finishing I am dreading to this one as it was 15 years ago, make sure you have a spare day to do it as you may need to come back to it to get all the air/ un-cured glue sorted, and maybe the best advice is to get a professional Upholster to do it, but dont let them talk you in to cr*p padding etc!!

Every original car that I have been fortunate enough to get close to and really look over has just an aluminium dash covered in a rather cheap looking wide grain type vinyl with no padding.

Of course my dash has a tan leather dash to match my seats...oh well

toggle switches holes?
 

Upholstering dashboards, going by my speal back in this post, I actually know very little about doing this, but would like to know if the small switch holes have material left so that it can be glued on the back side of dash to prevent material pulling away from the toggle switch etc, if there is any shrinkage??

Further problem with that is the toggle switches, ignition switch etc all have some sort of flat or little tab to stop them turning in the dash under use, and what I have done by making the holes big enough for material to go through is made the tab etc useless. I now think they should have been a snug fit!!!!!!