jack, i am still a fan of 2 part epoxy if you can resist putting it on until everything cures and lifts are in. otherwise, maybe ask d v what he used.

i used the two part rustoleum from lowes....grey with flakes...put it on new floor without sealer...followed their directions......been down about 6 months with no problems....dropped things...pulled things and rolled things...no damage

BLACKJACK,

Afrer reading every post about floor coverings, researched every brand mentioned, I went with the "Wonderpaint system'.

ALL of the products mentioned take the same work. The floor has to be prepped!

Now, my experience doing a 42x40 'new' floor. 6 months old and no oils, etc. The Company directions are unbelievably pathethic. Caused some very serious carnage. The can says one thing, the sales rep. said another. Of course I got ahold of the Rep. after it was to late. (What a mess!) I did end up saving it, or at least got the product where it finally went down, "OK". Needless to say I was not and still not a happy camper investing that much work and money.

However, to the other side of the fence. Damnn this stuff is good!
I liked the idea that you take the base paint color, comes in gallon cans, take it to you local paint store, my case the hardware store, picked a color out of the thousands they had on display, and they tinted each gallon to my choosing. (I went with a light tan.)

To clean it is amazing. Take a 36" broom to it and the broom feels like it's in a self propelled mode, absolutely no resistance. Wash it and it looks the the hood of DV after a rain, it actually beads up!

Only been here since after the Fling, but I have given it every hard test in the book! Loaded engine stands with steel whells hasn't touched it. Lifting cars with a floor jack, then swinging the cars around hasn't touched it. My 'moveable' mobile four post lift with a '40 Willy's on it moves with ease without leaving marks! In fact my floor has a very slight 'fall' to the drain and the damnned hoist will head for the drain on its own every time!

I have already dropped molten slag on it from the torch, sparks from grinders, multiple tools from ratchets to hammers all without 'harm'. Brake fluid, antifreeze, oils, haven't touched it. Clean up with a wrag and you can't even see where it was!

If you would have asked me about "Wonderpaint" last July, I would have given you an earfull. But, after seeing how tough and beautifull it is, I've lightened up a little. Would I recommend it to someone? Ya...I guess so. JUST MAKE SURE YOU GET AND UNDERSTAND THE CORRECT PROCEDURES THE FIRST TIME!

DV...

I used Granite Garage Coatings
 

Blackjack,

I went with a granite look. It consists of 3 coats of epoxy, one coat of polyurethane, with vinyl chips added to give a granite-terrazo appearance with a slip resistant surface.

Here's a paicture of how it looks.

http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d..._Floor-med.jpg

Its been down for a couple of months now, so I can't really comment on how durable it is. I do have a 4 post lift that's moveable and it rolls fine on the surface without any sign of scratches, etc. Also have spilled several types of fluid with out any problem and dropped tools, etc.

:3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: :3DSMILE:

Bruce, I'm getting ready to do my floor. I have an issue which you may be able to address. After the concrete was poured(about a 20 months ago) I sealed it with a clear sealer(to keep it clean during construction and to slow the cure). I also had fiber added to the mix(to control micro cracks). Now I have a hairey slab. I acid washed it, and the sealer didn't allow etching. I pressure washed it, and the fibers didn't break off. I'm thinking a floor machine(buffer), with a fine screen will take the fibers down, and possibly cut most sealer off.
What would you reccomend?
Thanks, Jim

Woodard,

Can't find that Granite finish on Google... What is the name of the company?

Thanks

HEY, DV - - -

WHERE DO US PO' FOLK FIND THIS "WONDERPAINT" SYSTEM STUFF???


ANYBODY EVER USE A COMMERCIAL GRADE VINYL TILES???


THNAKS VERY MUCH FOR THE INFO.

Y'ALL HAVE A REALLY GREAT DAY.

BLACKJACK

Ed,

What was the cost compared to other brands? What made you decide on Wondercoat?

U COAT for about 660 sq. ft with the colored flecs is about $750.
delivered.
Your total sq. feet is about three times what I'll be doing...

JIm - you do have 2 problems on your hands.

Concrete curing compunds are usually chlorinated rubber based, (unaffected by acid washing as they are acid-resistant) and serve the function of retaining moisture in the concrete as it cures, to improve surface strength. Ideally this is a good thing - as most of the problems with coatings are usually related to the weak surface - all coatings will bond well if proper prep is done... However, when you know a coating is going on, it is better to use alternate curing methods - what is referred to as a "wet cure" - ie - cover the slab with burlap bags and keep the burlap wetted with a hose for the first 7-14 days - it achieves the same thing as a sealer. Alternately, use polyethelyne sheet over the slab to retain the moisture during the 1st 7-14 days.

Nonetheless, you have a sealer - the only way to now address this is by mechanical removal means such as the previously mentionned shotblaster or scarifier - these machines mechanically abrade the surface, removing the sealer in the process, and providing an ideal surface for subsequent coating - check in your yellow pages for a professional for this - try the concrete floor finishers section.

Use of a buffer with a coarse grit may also achieve this - I do not have experience with this equipment for this purpose - I suggest you evaluate your existing sealer with a magnifying glass, and then try the buffer and recheck - you will have to make the dermination as to whether it comes off - if you go this route, let me know what you find - it is probably worth trying, as the professionals will cost you probably $1.00-1.50 per SF for shotblasting - maybe more due to small area upcharge - these guyts are often doing 5-10000 sf at a go.

As for the fiber reinforcing - this again a good thing in theory and makes for a better slab - unless a coating system is going on. The usual method to resolve this is to rent a propane "tiger torch" - you see hot asphalt roofers using this equipment - try your local industrial rental equipment shop - it blows out a flame from a 4-6" wide mouth that is 8-12" in area - and burn the hairs off - they are polypropelyne and will melt easily.

Try the buffing first, or if you go with the professional use the professional mechanical means first - I think you will find the fibers are still there - then do the tiger torch.

Good luck, :)

Jack,
Call Jim Shofstall at 270-781-4095. He will tell you anything you want to know AND be able to sell it to you. Make sure you tell him you found him through the FLing ;) They were a sponsor last year. (This had nothing to do with me buying it though! I already signed up before the Fling.)

Just some quick insight. They sell you the paint, THEN you actually mix in white mortar. Essentially what you are putting down is a very thin layer of (color of your choice) concrete over what you have. But first you put down, I guess I would call it a clear sealer. Very easy to do, looks and spreads about like water. Let that DRY, then paint...let it DRY, then the Clear coat. The clearcoat is an option but it is what makes it so strong and purdy!

Cass: WHY? I like the idea it was mixed with mortar. I liked the idea ofpicking my own color, although now they do have it in many different shades. I like the clear coat that they use. A chemist friend of mine did some research and found out many different companys use this same clear from sealing shingeled roofs, to clearing decks with it. I like the flexibility of it, paint designs, patterns, what ever you want on top of the paint then put the clear down on top of it all.

I.E.; Mrs. DV, bless her ornery soul, painted black and white squares all around the perimeter of the shop. I then glued pictures of the cars and streetrods I have built on the squares. NOt knowing if it was going to work or not.... I then cleared the entire floor, right over top of the pictures. I also laid down some large decals on the floor and cleared over them. Now THAT worked! You wont believe this but I even took a 4" puddy kife and tried to pop up one of the decals and the pictures. Not a mark!

Another reason I went with this...look at this picture: http://www.wonderpaint.com/asa603/ar...rance-logo.jpg

This is an entrance to an classy restaurant in Georgia. It IS ALL HAND PAINTED AND OUTSIDE! All done with "WonderPaint".

When I talked to them, if I remember right they said it was three years old and had no sign of breaking down. I guess that was the final step for me.

Cass...I bought it all, the sealer, the paint, the mortar and the clear, I think I had right around $1,200.00 in it. But man I've got some paint left!

BLACKJACK:
I THOUGHT LONG AND HARD ABOUT USING COMMERCIAL TILES. DOWN SIDE, THEY WILL MARK FROM WELDING SLAG, ETC. THEY WILL "DENT" FROM HEAVY DIRECT LOADS, I.E.; MOTORS ON STANDS, ETC. IF YOU DO LIKE I DO, SLIDE HEAVY OBJECTS OVER THEM THEY CAN TEAR. IF YOUR FLOOR IS NOT PERFECTLY LEVEL, OR IF IT HAS CRACKS IN IT, THE TILE WILL MOST LIKELY CRACK.

BUT, THEY ARE RELAIVELY CHEAP, ESPECIALLY COMPARED TO A GOOD FLOOR COATING, AND OF COURSE IT DOESN'T TAKE A MECHANICAL GENIUS TO PUT THEM DOWN!

DV..."smiling faces...smiling faces........"

Granite Garage Coatings
 

Casaleenie,

The Company I used is Granite Garage Coatings out of Arlington, TX. Ed Miller, 817.784.2759
I believe they have dealers throughout the US.

:3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: