Garage Floor Coating
 

I LOOKED THROUGH PREVIUS THREADS AND ALL OF THE MATERIAL SEEMS "DATED".

I'M SURE THE TECHNOLOGY HAS IMPROVED SINCE I DID MY LAST GARAGE FIVE YEARS AGO. (A BAD EXPERIENCE).

HOME DEPOT HAS A PRODUCT BY "RUSTOLEUM" WHICH IS A TWO PART EPOXY THAT THEY "CLAIM" CAN BE PUT DOWN ON EXISTING PAINTED FLOORS PROVIDED THE PAINT IS SOLID AND THEIR CLEANER IS USED FIRST.

FIRST PROBLEM IS ONLY TWO COLORS AVAILABLE: MEDIUM/DARK GREY AND "DIAPER DROPPINGS BROWN". BOTH COLORS HAVE THE COLORED "FLAKES" THAT ARE APPLIED AFTER THE EPOXY IS SPREAD.

ANY SUGGESTIONS AS TO BRAND AVAILABILITY WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED. THE PAINT PRESENTLY ON THE FLOOR IS BEHR ONE PART EPOXY GARAGE PAINT. THE PREVIOUS OWNER EVIDENTLY DID NOT LET IT CURE LONG ENOUGH BECAUSE HIS TIRES LIFTED IT IN PLACES. ADDITIONALLY IS A "FLAT" COLOR WHICH IS VERY HARD TO CLEAN. I'D REALLY LIKE TO AVOID HAVING TO REMOVE THE EXISTING PAINT OR USING MURIATIC ACID.

ANY HELP OR SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

Y'ALL HAVE AREALLY GREAT DAY.

BLACKJACK

Blackjack,

I'm faced with the same problem...
Someone posted that the U-Coat It system was good and from what I can find out about the product it's a good paint but a real job to install.
I also looked at the snap together tiles from Race Deck but a really expensive product.

Going to follow this thread to see what pops up...

The best way to have future epoxy stick is to rent a shotblaster. They are big, expensive and hard to find at rental yards but make the difference between a coating that is bulletproof and one that comes up in places.
Here is my favorite epoxy source: http://www.superiorepoxies.com/

BlackJack:

This is a suggestion....

This past summer, on the unpainted cement floor of my barn (which was not clean and probably dated from the 1930's) I applied with a roller a product called Behr Cement Stain. In a light gray. It is water based.

This is not a fancy ( Nuevo-Garage Fleck it is not) look but it looks alot better than the old dirty cement floor. It is just a nice light gray (Other colors were white, and tan) You can mix the white with the gray or tan to lighten them)

So far it has held up well to oil dripping and even the dreaded brake fluid. It is also very inexpensive and durable. I did two coats after washing the floor down with a strong solution of Dawn and hot water. The floor was left to dry for a week prior to painting. The edges were cut in by hand and the rest rollered on with a long nap roller.

The heat from the tires does not lift it up and as a stain, I am not sure that there is actually anything to lift up or separate. I do not know if I would use this on a previously painted floor.

This was recomended to me by a cement mason who had done some work for me. He uses it on exterior foundations and such and has no peeling issues.

Just did my garage with Wonder Paint's Like Nu cement coating and applied their urethane top coat. Very pleased with the results.
Do a search on garage floor coatings. There are a number of posts explaining the different products and their pros and cons.
I went with a cement base coating which seemed to make a lot of sense compared to epoxy coatings which seem to peel after a couple of years if not preped properly. I think a lot has to do with the present condition of your garage floor.

Check out www.wonderpaint.com

Art,

When I had my garage flood did twice by so called pros, I asked about the stain that I think is the stuff you are using as I had heard good things about it. I was told, and this may not be true as both companies really screwed up my floor, that the stains can't be used with a previously painted floor because they actually go into and become part of the concrete. After paying twice to have my floor cleaned, prepped, and painted by epoxy life time paint from two different companies, I wound up with the race deck tiles and have never regretted it. They were on the expensive side, but didn't cost as much as I paid those two companies to do the floor, and neither job lasted a year before paint started coming up. I know that there are good floor paints and epoxies out there as a friend of mine has a commercial garage and he has everything from trucks to tractors on that floor and spills every type of fluid you can think of and it has stood up great for 5 years and is just now starting to show signs of wear in places.

Ron :)

Ron:
I do think you are correct. The stain I used, if my memory serves, was not intended for application over existing coated or painted floors. It does soak in and stain the cement (ie: not a glossy look) and leaves surface with near original traction.

The mason told me that with cement garage floors, the big culprit is moisture. He warned me that any surface sealing type of coating will act poorly if the cement slab is or can become wet or soaked due to bad drainage or water infiltration from below the slab. Especially in climates with thermal hot and cold cycles (like in New England).

Over time, on hot days, the water will try to evaporate and will lift (from below) the coating on the cement. On cold days the cement will contract causing microscopic surface cracks on the puckering sealant. Additionally the slab will "sweat" when warm air condenses over the cold slab.

I guess all these things are not good for a surface sealant. This is why he told me to try the stain after degreasing it with Dawn. He mentioned steam cleaning the cement surface if I was really looking for a good long lasting surface but I did not do that. I used the Dawn with hot water and a stiff deck brush from my old boat to really clean the cement.

Perhaps a steam cleaner would be the way to take off old paint. that with a power washer would probably really do the trick.

I get to start with a new garage 30 x 22 so by March I want to have a decision made.. Also need to know about how long the concrete has to cure before I can apply an epoxy.
Got a few months to make a final choice...

:)

I used the Rustoleum 2 part epoxy on this new house garage floor. So far it has held up OK. Just OK. It does not like lacquer thinner or other MEK solvents. It lifts with brake cleaner. Tires leave light black thread marks that do not come up with even TSP cleaner. I got it clean and then put a clear, professional top coat on it. Paint contractor said it would be better- it was not. Based on this I don't like 2 part epoxy coatings for vehicular traffic. Foot traffic would be fine.

We are building a new house with a dream garage(s). I researched this on CC and other places. The Race Deck tile would be fine but expensive. I have also heard Race Deck traps moisture and dirt.

I plan on using plain ol' VCT. Vinyl floor tile in 12" (or 9") squares put down professionally. Several people have this and even damaged tiles can be replaced easily. The cost is very low on a sq. ft. basis. The concrete will be new but anytime after 28 days should be fine- the longer the better. Since it will have construction traffic, I will have the concrete pressure washed prior to the tile installation.

IMO of course.

I used the Rustoleum product on the garage floor of my old house, two and 1/2 years ago. I followed the instructions and was careful in the application. It looked good for about two months and then started to lift. I would not recommend that product.

In my current house, which is about 30 years old, I used U-Coat It. Application was more tedious, but the results are terrific. It has been down for 1 and 1/2 years and there is not a hint of any paint lifting. I applied the clear coat and the floor is still very glossy. During the first two months following application, my garage was used as a wood shop to build new kitchen cabinets. The floor took a lot of abuse, but it shows no wear at all.

I highly recommend U-Coat-It.

I used the Rustoleum product last summer and so far it has held up great, with no hot tire pickup even though I live in sunny AZ. I applied this over a garage floor that was about 7 years old and the previous owners had a variety of paint and chemical spills from their silk screening business. I really believe proper prep and multiple coats is the key. I spent a fair amount of time cleaning any small areas where water beaded due to previous spills but other than that I used the cleaner that came with the kit and a pressure washer. The only reason I applied 2 coats was to get a little more uniform finish since it can be a little tricky when it is hot outside and in AZ we don't have a choice in the summer. I skipped adding the little paint chips since nobody is going to look at the floor with my car in there anyway. So far the surface has survived motor oil, gear oil, brake fluid, brake cleaner, WD40, gasoline, and probably a few other things that I am forgetting. I occasionally mop the floor with water and Simple Green when it gets a bit grungy and it cleans right up leaving no tire marks whatsoever.

Seems to be a lot of both good and bad opinions on most of the epoxy products. Some I am sure are not up to snuff but the others that fail are likely due to not enough prep. I went ahead and tried the epoxy since I knew that I could always recoat it if necessary or at least hide it with something like Racedeck.

Good luck in making a decision, I am sure you will get another 500 opinions on this one... ;-)

My two cents:

I used Rustoleum 2-part epoxy, note there are two types:

one is water based.

the other is an industrial (non-water-based). I used the industrial (non-water based) on a new concrete floor. My local hardware store ordered it special for me. I applied two coats, one does not seem to look good on fresh concrete, perhaps new concrete absorbs more of the coating. Since April I have had heavy trafffic, tools, engine hoists, pallets etc. It seems almost impossible to scratch. Now for stains, I have not had a test yet, nothing leaking or spilled. The test will be our North-East winter with frost heaves, sub-zero temps, road salt and grit. I am pleased so far, reasonable in cost, easy to apply. Updates to follow. Good luck on your choice of a coating!

Jer

Put down U-Coat It system this September.

Not cheap, but so far so good.

The kit will run you about $550 shipped to your door for a regular sized two car garage.

I did the three part system.

First coat is the bond coat.
Second coat is the color.
Than third coat is a clear gloss that makes floor impervious to chemicals.

Kit comes with everything you need to apply product and an instructional video.

It also has aluminum oxide to put down to make floor non skid and the fleks to add decoration.

You do have to prep the floor with muriatic acid which is not shipped with the kit due to Haz Mat issues.

Project will take you all weekend but seems to be worth the effort
.

Ask me how it is again in the spring.

Hi guys:
I too, used the U-COAT-IT system for my new shop floor and old garage floor. The system was the U-Flek Gloss system which is basically the flakes with clear which they recommend for automotive use. They have several base colors available with different color flakes.
Their website will answer any questions about the concrete cure times. I also used their U-Prep system to clean the concrete before application. I ordered a kit to do my 22 x 28' gargage (old unfinished concrete) and my 30'x 50' shop (new concrete). I'll have to admit that it was a lot of work, but the results were great. The system is an epoxy base but the first coat is applied over a water wet floor to allow penetration into the pores. The kit comes complete with everything you need to apply the product (buckets, rollers, glasses, gloves, video, etc.). The finish has held up well. No lifting from any chemicals used in automotive build. My plasma cutter will leave very small pin holes through the clear if used within 2 ft. of the surface, though. Hot tires will leave its mark on the floor, but will clean off with soap, water and a mop. I used the calculator on their website based on the floor area and had approx. 30% of the product left over with good coverage. Just my 2 cents.

Brad W.

It's all in the PREP work Blackjack. I know you don't want to do the acid thing but if you paint over the top of the old paint then you will definately have peeling problems down the road. Sand blast it (messy) or acid wash it and make sure its dry before putting down the 1st coat. Two thin coats are better than 1 thick coat. Let it dry VERY well before parking on it. Take your time and do it right from the start and you won't be sorry.

Industrial linings is my business so I have a degree of experience here. The brand of coating is not really all that important they will all adhere when proper prep is done. Selection of the coating is more a function of desired gloss, thickness of the system, and color. Fully cured 2 part epoxy is resistant to brake fluid if it is cleaned up promptly. I personally have the fleck in my work bench area, but did not carry it into the main floor - it is not easy to get the fleck uniform - results will vary, and a nice fresh neat epoxy floor will look blotchy after the fleck is installed if you are not used to doing this all the time...

Terry - you are correct it is all in the prep, but for purposes of clarification, "Acid washing" will not help if you are going over an existing coating.

Acid washing is used to etch the bare concrete by attacking the cement matrix at the surface. Remember, these coatings are "acid resistant". Acid washing, properly done, and thoroughly rinsed, is an acceptable method for existing concrete.

Sand blasting, while technically will work, is not practical, nor is the previously mentionned shotblasting, unless you know someone in the business with this equipment.

Assuming the existing coating is well bonded, rent an industrial floor sander like used for hardwood floors. Use a coarse pad, and knock the glaze off. Clean thoroughly removing all dust - wash it, and dry well. Corners and edges by hand.

For exisitng concrete, the do-it-yourselfer is best to rent a high pressure water blaster, and go the acid etch route - lots of water, use a squeegee, rinse well, repeat until you think you have it well done, and then do it again. Rinse with TSP, then flush with lots of water - this of course is really only practical if you can flush to a drain .

This is an ok job for the do-it-yourselfer, but a 20x20 garage will eat up the most part of your weekend.

Good luck, ;) ;)

THANKS FOR ALL THE GOOD ADVICE, GUYS.

I'M GETTING REALLY "SPOOKEY" ABOUT THE EPOXY PAINTS.

THE RACE DECK TILES CONCERN ME AS TO TRAPPING WATER, MOULD, INSECTS, DIRT, ETC.

DOES ANYONE MAKE A COMMERCIAL GRADE VINYL OR COMPOSITE 12" X 12" TILE THAT WOULD BE SUITEABLE FOR A "WORKING" GARAGE???

Y'ALL HAVE A REALLY GREAT DAY.

BLACKJACK

Casa-
If you're covering freshly poured concrete I would use U-Coat it. I put it on my new garage floor and found it to be very easy to use. It's been on for apx. 2 years now and still looks great- and the best part is a little soap and water and it looks like new. As to your other question, I think I let the cement cure for about 8 weeks before applying the U-Coat it. I HIGHLY recommend U-Coat it.

Bruce, Will you come over and show me how to do this?? How about this rain, I finally get the COBRA and this is all we get! Did'nt the same happen to you if I recall correctly??

Hey David - hows the new ride - when are you posting some pics?? Weather sucks huh? Yeah, I can give you a hand - I suggest we wait till spring though - lots of water to flush out the door and temperaturesa are another thing critical!