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Typical engine temperature
My engine runs fine, never throws water, but wants to run around 200 deg. I have a griffen 600hp radiator, overdrive water pump pulley, fan always on. I am trying to figure out if I have a problem and what to do about it.
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LSC Mod
Dave,
I recently moved my radiator forward - more upright - on my Lonestar. It made a big difference in engine temp. I was always around 200 with the fan on. Now the fan cycles and engine runs around 180. |
Randy, mine is angled back quite a bit.
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Dave..............
Another thing that will help your temps is shrouding. Both on top from the body opening to the top of the radiator to force the air coming in the snout to flow through the radiator rather than over the top and around the sides. Additionally, a shroud on the back of the radiator with your puller fan makes a big difference.
Here's a shot from my old Lone Star showing both shrouds: http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...CT0008-med.JPG With these shrouds my car always ran at 180 - 190 and only rarely needed the fans. :3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: |
Big, mine runs at 180 with any air flowing over it at all, and a similar Griffin radiator. The Unique design is totally upright.
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My LS is also tilted back with a nose shroud and a rear shroud on the fan. If I am moving the fan never comes on and it runs 180ish. Stopped the fan cycles at 190 or so. I agree the shrouds really help - front for moving and fan shroud for sitting still.
Bruce |
Jim,
Where did you get or who can make one of those top shrouds ? |
Fred.................................
I made it myself. Take some cardboard or heavy construction paper and make a template and then lay it out on a sheet of aluminum. Then just cut it out and form the bends over a rounded edge. I used a counter top that had a nice radiused edge to form the bends. It's a nice Saturday project. The puller fan and shroud I purchased from Vintage Air and fit the Griffin radiator perfectly. I just trimmed a little off the sides. The fan pulled 3700CFM or 3900CFM if I remember correctly.
:3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: :3DSMILE: |
Dave, I have the same radiator ( same car make ) and mine runs at 200 all the time, since I changed the fan.
I used to have a 16 inch Bosch experimental that flowed 2800 CFM ( a real cross-way breezer, I swear ) any way, the frame gave out and I was forced to go to a 16 inch that flows about 2000 CFM. The fan is on way more than the 2800. I noticed at high speed in 78 degree weather the fan runs all the time and the temp is rivited at 200. I am using a 190 T'Stat. Hope this helps, if you need more info, just ask. |
Dave,
I would recommend changing the rasiator angle, then putting the schrouds in. That way you will have more room in front of the engine and it will look better. It was easy to do on my LSC. Just unbolt the brackets tilt it forward clamp it in place. Then after checking the hood clearence, drill and tap new holes. Randy R |
Randy,
When I first got my LSC the radiator was laid back alot.Forget the angle now but I believe it was right at 40*. I moved it to 30* and did notice a difference with the 392w. I was over at Don Barnes shop well before you bought your Cobra from him.I commented to him that he really needed to move it up.I guess he didn't.:3DSMILE: How many degrees did you get it to ??? |
I think the fan shroud is the key. I believe Griffin makes one that would fit. Part number KMS 186
Trularin, did you ever replace the heim joints on your Lonestar? The ones LS supplied were not very good. |
I run the Triple Flow Radiator from from L.A. Radiator. I usually run 180 degrees but when it gets real hot and stop and go traffic, I run 200 tops with my puller fan.
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Dave. No, I am about to though. Talk about squeeky.
I really hate that, you go down the street and they squeek like a mouse in a trap. Did you? |
Trularin, yes I did, on the recommendation of Fred and several others. I had that squeek, came up through the roll bar, drove me crazy. When I took the old ones out I was horrified by what junk they are. The center ball could be rattled around, they were that loose. Car rides MUCH better now.
http://racerpartswholesale.com/ phone 800-397-7815 QA1 Rod ends XMR10 .6250 5/8 - 18 R.H. XML10 .6250 5/8 - 18 L.H. As for the cooling problem, went to an overdrive water pump pulley (LS sold me an underdrive), removed the thermostat, went to straight water plus Water Wetter and now it won't go over 180. Will you be at the LCS? Look forward to meeting you. |
Dave,
I have been spraying mine with silicone lub and work well, do you still have to spray the new ones you put on? Bruce |
Dave, London is in our plans. Want to meet several people from the club.
Had a great one the other day, Ricer, making fart noises all over the place. The road splits to a light, I pull up next in the cobra in second gear. I yell, "Cut that crap out!". The light turns and I slowly pull away. The look on his face. It was worth the yell! Yes, I lubed the ends and the squeek is gone, but I am going to have to replace them soon. Looking forward to seeing you in London. |
Bruce, these have been used by several LS owners, they are permanently lubed, and have a very tight tolerance, high quality. Noise is only one problem, the loseness of the axle moving at odd angles relative to the chassis causes a rough ride and a tendency for the car to wander when you hit a bump. I recommend all LS owners replace them.
London should be fun, never been there, never been to Ohio in fact... |
Bruce,
The stock rod ends are a little better than trash,but not much. I'm actually surprised that they haven't come apart on someone's car. The difference in ride and handling is amazing.Something you will notice within one block after changing. It helps plant the tires better coming off a standing start as well. One of the best $ 200 you can spend on your Cobra and enjoy everytime you go for a ride. QA1 The high strength alloy series features a heat treated chrome moly body, 52100 steel ball, a teflon / kevlar self lubricating and self sealing race. Available in r.h. and l.h. thread. http://racerpartswholesale.com/ phone 800-397-7815 Rod ends XMR10 .6250 5/8 - 18 $25.04 XML10 .6250 5/8 - 18 L.H. $25.04 Jam nuts 5800L 5/8" LH 1.50 5800R 5/8" RH .60 You will need 4 each of everything. Panhard not included. |
Fred/Dave - thanks a lot. This is great info and I will upgrade ASAP. Tis is why this forum is so usefull. I just hope I get experienced enough to return the favor.
Bruce |
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