Club Cobra - LSC sway bars

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- - LSC sway bars (http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/shop-talk/71477-lsc-sway-bars.html)

I had a couple of questions able adjustability. I am using the hollow bar now but you have a choice of more rigid bars as you need it. The bar I am using is the "softest". You can actually go to a solid bar if you want.

B

They sure look like our sprint car torsion arms, same technology anyway. We have "torsion stops" that are hooked up to torsion bars. You You use a nut and bolt in the stops to adjust the tensional twist on the bars. When did cobras start using these ?

I guess Cobras started using these when I could not find anyone that had already designed a kit for the LSC cars. Decided to do them myself and they work great. Now I have to come up with something for the rear. I don't believe I can use the same set up for rear, but I am eyeing it right now ans looking into options. The fronts helped so much I just have to do the backs!

Bruce

I don't think the back would be much different. You would have to fab-up a plate for the bushings, since their are no "A arms". Do you have some type of sleeve in the torsion arm for the pitman rod to slide up & down and is it lubricated? Wearing is what I'm concerned about. And also, what pound bars are they ?

Kevin,

You have lost me a little. There is no sliding of the pitman arm (I call a sway bar link) because it is being sandwiched between the link bushings. I may be missing something.

As far as the backs, there is already a triangle shaped plate that can be used for the mounting for the bushings. There is not enough room for the size arms, bar or bushings I used on the fronts. I am sure I can come up with something - I just need to get time to start doing some looking.

B

The sway bar link- Won't the torsion bar be moving up & down in the link ?

Great job Bruce! I'll be doing the same soon and your pics help a ton. Just curious if you notice any oversteering issues as you have the front planted better now?

Mat

Kevin - If you look at the pics there are two link bushings sandwiching the plate on the control arm, a small length of thick wall tubing ( I cut to fit)between the other two link bushings that are sandwiching the tab I welded on the arm. There may be a very small movement of the link at each set of bushings but it will only be the amount of compression of the bushings themselves. The bar itself rotates in the large pillowblock bushings mounted on the frame. I bought the extra heavy bearings with a kind of babit surface. Wear should be minimal and occur mostly on the babit bushings - I hope.

Mat - I was also concerned on what type other "issues" I might encounter with the front planted, but after I made a lot of conservative corners I ended up hitting them hard enough that I had a very controlled slide through the turns. My side pipes only have about 3.5 inches of clearance at the tips and when cornering moderately aggresive to the right (with my fat a$$ of course in the left seat) I would drag the left tip. This weekend I never dragged a tip. So far I am very happy with the set up - I guess time will tell for sure!

Bruce

Ok, the bearings solved my brain fart. Well planned out my friend.

Dave - nice to meet you also. Been wantin to hit some shows but it is just too HOT