Thanks for the info everyone.
Some criteria I did leave out........MUST be a big block! To me there is nothing like opening up the hood and seeing the engine compartment full. I accept the weight penalty After all bigger IS better except when it comes to your stomach. I run a C6 so I want all the power and torque in by 4500 to 5000 RPM. Yes you can get lots of horsepower from a well built, large displacement small block but they are just to high strung for me. I like an engine that when you mash the throttle will pull like an F15 at full afterburner from 1500 RPM on up.
Thanks again everyone,
Ray

What the hell is that Don, a tank engine?

Ray

Put one of these next to ya! 698" North of 1500HP
Might as well keep it all Ford............

[IMG]http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...cubic_inch.jpg[/IMG]

Ray I have no idea :LOL: I just found it somewhere surfing and everytime I look at it I get a big grin going. Now THAT is a monster block huh **) **)

1blackbb66 - on production 385 engines some general observations. My 0-deck flatop piston .0030 over engine w-9 to one slugs could only fit a 6.7 rod in because a 6.8 rod pin would get into the bottom ring. Depends on the pistons design you order I guess. A 4.5 crank is about the most you can run in a production block and on the bore side of the block the less you bore it the more efficient the rig seal will be from block flex. Yes I have heard about 4.5 bore jobs but that's only under certain conditions, and usially for racing engines. A excellent combo would be a 4.3 stroke at no more than .0040 over. Even w/mild headwork you will be well north of 600 ft lbs of torque. And there in lays the secret of 385's, in street trim they ALL make about a REAL 600 lbs.torque. But (as they say there is always are butts) all things being even, as the displacment goes up on 385's the torque curve moves down, and become more flat across the rev range. Also,for every 50 cu.inch. you put into the engine from 429 cubes you will need 6 to 8 degrees more cam too, or it will loose horsepower. And for heavens sake keep your lift in a street engine to about .65 lift. and invest in aftermarket rods. You can run more lift but trouble free miles goes away in almost all cases,,,,,, (flame on)
Forget all that rod angle jazz because even the stock 6.6 rod lenth is really o.k.for a 4.5 stroke, though the longer rods will give you a tiny bit less side loading, but not much really. My old mans dump trucks prove that to the tune of 200,000+ miles. So the bottom line,,,,,, both torque and horsepower numbers will stay around 650 numbers on most street 385 builds regardless of displacement and rod lenths. The major difference is how hard it will pull and how hard you will have to push it to get there, and that effects how reliable your engine will be. You won't believe how hard big cubes pull AND how fast things happen too.
cobrashock

Very good info.
Thanks Ron.
Ray

Man! I would love one. Don't have the 30 or 40 grand for one however.
Like I told Jake Greger one time, I want enough power that it always scares me a bit to stand on it!
Ray

Very well put.
Ray

Thanks again everyone. It would seem that 600 to 700 HP is not hard to get these days from a well built big block.
Ray

Don't forget that when talking weight differences between small blocks and FE's, an aluminum block and head FE (which I would guess most being built these days are) and a Windsor small block are very close in weight.

The 460 based block is the cheapest horsepower you can get. Go for it!

My 460 from perf. eng. was not bored or stroked and put out 550 h.p and 550 tq. doesnt sound that great for the cubes......

My car's engine is a Ford Racing 460 with Kaesse aluminum heads, Edelbrock RPM Performer intake and Holley 770 carb. Damn scary winding out the gears.. But, never been in a Cobra yet (BB or SB) that wasn't scary..I can't imagine wanting more horsepower but no doubt will.. :)