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Rethreading screws
I prefer 10 x 24 screws. I have a bag of longer screws that I have to cut to length. New screws fit smoothly in 10 x 24 riv-nuts. After cutting to lenght there is a problem , I figure it 's just the first thread. I have a large Craftsman tap and die set and the 10x 24 solid hex die nut should go rite on a new screw, It doesn't . It's trying to cut threads. Anything that has passed through this die nut screws into a new 10 x 24 nut like it has dirt in the threads. What is the difference between a die and a thread chaiser? At any rate I figure this die nuit is a waist of time. What I want is to be able to cut a screw off , dress up the end ,and it screws in where it is supposed to.
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Mike,
I have a nice pair of wire stripper, cutter, crimper, screw cutter made by channel lock. They work great because after you cut the screw, you back it out of the threaded hole and it cleans up the threads on the way out. Ray |
Ray,
Does your screw cutter have different size fittings so you can cut any size screw? I have been using a piece of thin steel that I drilled different size holes in and then run the screw through whichever hole it fits until I get enough through to cut off, and then backing it out and that seems to work pretty well. Ron |
Put a nut on the screw before you cut the screw. Back off the nut and your threads will be clean. You can also use a castellated nut installed upside down to clean up the threads. A thread cleaner does just that, it cleans the threads but it does not cut them.
Fred SPF 158 |
Fred,
That is what I do with bolts, but a lot of the screws that I use won't take a nut on them. That was why I got the thin steel plate and drilled it, and it actually works pretty well. But sometimes it doesn't and that is why I wondered if those things Ray has will do all sizes of screws. Ron :) |
Ron61
Most plier type stripper/crimpers are made with several holes for cutting small size screws. Usually from 4/40-10/24 in varying sizes. They work fantastic- very quick- screw the screw into the matching threaded hole-through the unthreaded hole in the opposing jaw. When you have it set to the length you require simply squeeze the handles together & they shear the screw cleanly off. When you back the screw out of the threaded hole it dresses the thread ready to install. This is a great tool a lot of people don't even realize they have in their tool box. Craig |
Craig,
Thanks for the information. I have several strippers and such, but none like you describe. Guess I had better look in the tools again when I am at Sears. Ron |
The tool cdnus and 1blackbb66 speak of is a common plier type crimping, wire stripping tool commonly found in the electrical section of the hardware store. The 10-24 thread pitch is a size commonly used in the electrical industry while running house hold gauge wiring and hooking up switch boxes and electrical outlets.
It really does work well although I don't think it will cut or chase stainless. |
After chasing the threads, take a flat file and smooth off the sharp edge of the leading thread on the fastener. Sort of bevel the end on a 45 deg angle. Makes it easier to start in a threaded hole-and it looks more professional.:)
Rodger |
I have the wire crimpers as described. After cutting the 10 x 24 stainless steel screw ( which was tuff ) , I put the freshly cut screw end against the grinder wheel to dress up the end a little. The pliers are well used. The die nut is approxitmatly 30 years old but rarely used. frustrated mostly. It should be automatic and simple. A new screw will not spin into this die. Why haven't I seen this before?
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Actually the one I have works great on S.S. screws.
When I mounted my windscreens & sunvisers I drilled & tapped my windsheild side frames 10/32 for the sidescreens. I was able to cut & trim very small portions off the S.S. screws to obtain a perfectly flush fit to the inside of the frame. The cut was of such quality I did not even have to touch up the end of the screw. I will admit it does take considerable more force to cut S.S. but the simplicity of it makes it worthwhile. Craig |
I even took a hammer to the rivet on the pliers to eliminate any slack. The next screw cut still resisted . I decieded that the hole in the pliers must be worn alowing the bolt to get bent before shearing. I have to dress the sides a little. I bought a new "Vermount Americam" solid hex die. It wouldn't take a new screw without trying to cut. Seems a split die is the only way to approach a previously threaded screw and trying to extend threads and so on.
I asked about a heavey type tool like it was made for shearing screws, but they only had the sheat metal wire stripping and crimping pliers. |
Mike,
Ditto to what everyone said about the stripper pliers. You have to get a quality pair though. I have gone through all the cheeze-ball imports and finally bought a good one. About 30 to 40 bucks but well worth it. Ray |
Craig,
Where did you get the pair of pliers that you use? The ones that I have all came in my computer equipment tool kit and I have one NAPA pair of strippers for heavy wire, but they have nothing for cutting screws. Ron |
Most screws we specifiy have a last tapper as the screw is cut. It is heated and cut to shrink the threads at the end and the die rolls off.
For what you describe, may I suggest ( I think some of the other posts say the same thing ) But, thread your die on to the portion you want to keep. Use oil when cutting and clean the tap and dies after each use. Just my $0.02 |
Ron,
I believe Ray & I are using the same Brand by the sound of it. I'll check when I go out to the shop later but I believe mine are Chanellock also. Craig |
Ray
I think you meant Rice ball not cheese ball Craig |
I use a pair of Ancor stripper/crimpers from Ancor wiring, part #701009 http://www.ancorproducts.com/Products/Home.html
With these I can cut s/s bolts/screws to length with miniumal effort...thread the screw into the appropriate aperture to the length desired, cut, then back out..perfect thread every time. Great for small bolts and screws the best I've ever used better than Mac or Snap-on or any other brand IMO. |
Ron,
I checked & they are Chanellock. G.R. Those are a good looking tool also. Craig |
Yup and they work!
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