body cut outs

dcapo · #1 (**permalink**) 05-22-2002, 12:21 PM

PETEK -- NEED HELP-- MANUAL SAYS FUEL HOLE IS MARKED ON BODY AND ADJUSTMENT SPRINGS HOLE, BUT THEY ARE NOT SO MARKED ON MY CR BODY CAN YOU HELP LOCATE WHERE I SHOULD CUT THE HOLES ALSO I HAVE SCRIBED LINES FOR DOOR CUT OUTS HINGE CUT OUTS ETC. CAN I TRUST THESE LINES? THANKS --DCAPO

petek · #2 (**permalink**) 05-22-2002, 12:42 PM

Here's what I did...

Jack screw holes: rotate the jack screws so that they stick up well above the chassis piece. Drop the body onto the chassis. Use a small drill bit chucked into a Dremel motor tool to drill a tiny hole along side the jack screws, up into the parcel shelf on the body. Pull the body back off. Using the tiny locating hole drilled earlier, cut a larger hole into the body (note, the tiny hole will be in the perimeter - not the center - of the larger hole). Drop the body back onto the chassis. Use a Dremel tool and router bit to open the holes up so the jack screws fit through.

Filler cap (I've got the LeMans cap) ... position the fiberglass piece on the underside of the fender to get a good idea of where the cap will be located. Duct tape the fiberglass piece to the underside of the fender. Drill a hole in the center of the fiberglass piece up into the fender. Take a look at the hole in the fender to make sure it's where you want the cap to appear. Remove the fiberglass piece and sand the gelcoat off, rough up the inner surface of the fender. Epoxy the fiberglass piece to the inside fender, add fiberglass cloth to strengthen the interface between the fiberglass piece and the fender (I used a long screw and nut to hold the fiberglass piece to the fender, through the hole drilled earlier). Once the epoxy has set, cut the opening in the fender out to the rim of the fiberglass piece.

And while doing all of the above remember that a small hole in the parcel shelf or body can be repaired easily but a large hole is going to take a little more work ... i.e. measure twice, cut once!

dcapo · #3 (**permalink**) 05-22-2002, 12:54 PM

PETEK--YOUR THE MAN UNFORTUNATLY NONE OF WHAT YOU SAID HELPS ME--HA-HA FIRST I DO NOT HAVE THE ABILITY TO PUT BODY OFF AND ON SECOND IAM USING STANDERD GAS CAP. FINALLY CAN I TRUST THE LINES THAT ARE MADE ON THE CAR? BUT REALLY THANKS FOR YOUR INPUT -- DCAPO

dcapo · #4 (**permalink**) 05-28-2002, 12:13 PM

PETEK-- HOPE YOUR NOT MAD AT ME ? REALLY NEED TO KNOW WHERE I DRILL 2 INCH HOLE FOF STANDARD GAS CAP. ALSO DID YOU USE 1 OR 2 COSMETIC HANDLES ON YOUR TRUNK? THANKS DCAPO

petek · #5 (**permalink**) 05-28-2002, 12:29 PM

dcapo...

Nope, not mad at all, just haven't visited the forum in a while.

Your best bet is to ask DV or dscott; they build these things all of the time!

I didn't use the cosmetic handles on the trunk.

dcapo · #6 (**permalink**) 05-28-2002, 12:42 PM

PETEK--THANKS I THINK SKIP USING HANDLE ALSO CLEANER LOOK.---DCAPO

JEwalt · #7 (**permalink**) 05-28-2002, 03:23 PM

dcapo,

I used the standard filler cap and mounted it as follows:

Measure out from the curve at the trunk opening 3 1/5 in.
Drill a small pilot hole and dropped a weighted string through it to line up with the gas tank filler neck.
Adjust pilot hole as necessary for "center mark".
Drill opening with hole saw.

HOWEVER, I did not like the look and swithed to the LeMans cap installed per Petek's instructions.

Jeff

Double Venom · #8 (**permalink**) 05-28-2002, 04:43 PM

Dave,

Do NOT take any scribe lines serious! They will only be close!

Do you still need the radiator hoop? Don Scott was here over the weekend picking up a car for me, spotted a hoop lying on the floor of his trailer. Grabbed it quicker than a wink. Let me know.

DV