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Don't forget to retorque the muffler bearings. 75 ft/lbs in 1 ft/lb increments.
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I tightened those in Inch Lbs using a 60" cheater bar
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A very important step with the click type torque wrench is to back the adjustment off to "0" when finished. This will unload the spring and maintain the accuracy indefinitely if used infrequently.
But also good to re-calibrate occasionally if heavy use. Craig |
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How/where does one go about getting them recalibrated? Thanks! I sure hope the head gasket job does the trick for you. One thing I learned from a V-6 Olds Cutlass, you really need to check for warped heads if the engine ever got hot......after replacing the same head gasket for the 3rd time I took the heads to a machine shop to be "shaved", never had the problem again. Dugly :cool: |
Dugly
The original manufacturer will usually re-calibrate. Craig |
Pat you are SERIOUS?????
patrickt With 10,000+ posts and you are serious? :eek::confused: Funny,Nasty, Grumpy, Silly, Dippy, even 2 sheets to the wind. :rolleyes: SORRY serious and you on this forum doesn't work.%/ Ask Undy;):LOL: Hope you and the family had a good holiday. Rick L.
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This thread reminds me of a discussion at another board. It was in regard to TTY head bolts.
http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Arti..._bolt_use.aspx |
So 2 final results. #1 I don't get enough time to spend with the car. #2 Head gasket situation is good. Everything is operating normal! Now back to tuning carburetors....
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Actually you can calibrate your click type torque wrench. They usually have screw or allen screw in the end or the side. You can put an old socket in a vise, put the torque wrench in the socket, then hang from a cable or coat hanger on the handle various weights to check against what you have it set at. If should click just a you lightly set the weight on. Then move the tool to a slightly higher weight and it should not click.
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