Operation "Blown Head Gasket"
 

So after trying everything else under the sun to make sure it wasn't something else, I pulled the top off the motor this morning. the #2 cyclinder has been blowing into the water jacket directly above the cylinder. So my question to those who have more experience than I...

#1 Do I clean it all up & just throw a new gasket set on?

I assembled the top end of the motor myself. I'm not a professional but I have been around this type of stuff all of my life. I used ARP Studs & installed everything per directions & torqued everything down in the proper fashion. What are the chances that this is "just something that happens" occasionally? I am relieved that it wasn't something more serious:cool:

Hi, if it was mine I would clean every thing up remove studs and check block deck and head surfaces with good straight edge. Look real close at the area where the trouble was. If all looks good try just the gasket.

That's kinda the way I was headed in my thought process. I don't really have the room in the garage to pull the motor right now so that really is a last resort.

Hyde, isn't that a pretty fresh engine?%/

Yes, it is. I assembled the top end of the motor, though. I was very meticulous. My luck has a way of staying involved in my projects. ;)

If it was me, I'd just put it back together with a new gasket set. If it happens again then I'd look harder. You never know -- one of your kids/grandkids could have backed over the first gasket set with their Big Wheel when you weren't looking.;)

Luckily I don't have either yet & with 40 just around the corner we better make a decision on that front soon!!!:LOL: Who knows, I'll clean everything up in the next couple days & hopefully be back out puckering myself to the seat again next week.

I'd use a set of Cometics or Fel-Pro MLS to avoid it happening again.

Use a good straight edge to make sure the block and head surfaces are actually flat.

When you put it back together, read the instructions that come with the head gasket. Often they're differant than the assembly manual.

I use Fel-Pro permatorque gaskets. Never had a failure.

Didn't your car set for a while in storage before this happened?????
maybe a warm up and a retorque could have preventad this???????

You may be correct. Like I said, I'm not a pro engine mechanic or anything. In hind sight that might have Been a good idea. Suppose I will re-check torqe on the other head as well. Thanks for the tip!

Just curious ... but what type of heads are you running on your 289 ?

1965 289 CI heads with small chambers. Nuthin' special...

I ask because I am looking at the different motor options for my FIA (going with a 289 or 302). Would you use the same heads again or go for something else ? Thanks.

You should pull the other head and replace both head gaskets. You would hate to put it back together and then have the other one go bad.

Is there ANY coolant in the oil???
 

*13* Baker Is there any coolant in the oil? This is a big and important question. If the oil looks like a milk shake and it is a goffy color, PULL the motor. Reason is that the coolant DOESN'T have lubercating abilities and will eat the bearings depending on which one you use. Is there any yellow cream on the valve covers, breathers or PCV valve?? If not head gaskets should be OK if you are only washing out cylinder #2. Make sure you see no cracks in the block or the head. Clean real good and look between the intake and exhaust valve for ANY cracks. If found, you will need new heads or send them out for pressure testing and repair. You might want to take this head and go to a machine shop and have it looked over. Let them do a pressure test. This could save you another failure. If head gaskets are installed correctly they should never fail. You all ready know that the surfaces need to be clean and flat both straight across and on angle corners. You can't tell by the spark plug now, but is it possible that there is a igntion problem in this cylinder causing the gasket to burn or split out on the crush ring??? If you have any pictures this would really help.
If everything checks out, install new gaskets on both heads. Make sure you add sealer to any bolt or studs that go into a water jacket in the block. Next get a can of Hi-Tac and spray both sides of the gaskets and let dry. do 2 times. Install gaskets and heads and torque the bolts to spec or nuts to spec. If you are using nuts, I add a drop of lock-tite to each nut. Blue works fine. Run the motor for 30 minutes, drain the oil, let the motor go back to outside temp and recheck the torque on the head bolt or studs. Start in the middle and work your way out. Follow the bolt sequience, take them down to 30 pounds then go 10 pounds until at spec. Good Luck. Rick L Ps if you can shoot a couple of pictures and get them in your photo area would like to look and see if anythingis wrong. Rick

Don't panic. Pull both heads. Clean well and check for flat as mentioned. Grab a pair of Fel-Pro PermaTorques #8548PT2. Put them on dry. Use a good lube on washers and nuts for consistent torque. Torque by sequence in recommended increments to spec. Go drive.

Thanks guys, No water in the oil. I checked everything over & don't see any problems. I'm gonna clean the surfaces this morning & check for level. If no problems...I'll carefully clean her up & put her back together.

Hyde,

If you've had some experience with SBFs and want to go further, I found Ideal Productions, The Hi-Performance Ford 351W Small Block DVD series a great resource. It's over-the-top detailed but real good advice for the meticulous type builder whether novice or expert.

I am not a subscriber to the theory that "$hit just happens."

It happens for a reason. Doing the same thing over and expecting a different result is one definition of insanity.

Since it sounds like you did things correctly, look hard for a problem, as suggested by others. Are deck and head surfaces flat? Is the head or block cracked? A 40 year old cast iron head cracking is a real possibility.

Many engine blocks have the head bolts threaded all the way into the water jackets. I have heard it argued both ways. Some say lube the bolts to get accurate torque. Others say use RTV to seal the water from flowing around the threads. I guess you can RTV studs and lube the nuts and satisfy both arguments. Any words of wisedome on this, by you more experianced ones?