aligning the timing cover on a windsor block

[onefastmustang]

My front timing cover was leaking at the seal. I pulled it off and the seal looks warped a bit. I bought a new cover and seal. New cover because the one I had the dipstick hole was damaged. Anyhow I expect the parts on tuesday and was wondering if there is procedure to align the cover so that the seal doesn't leak. Also someone told me there should be two dowels on the engine or cover. I don't have any dowels. Do I need to get some?

TIA.

Mike

[FOMOCONUT]

Yes, there should be two dowels. Jerry

[Woodz428]

I always align it with the damper snout before I tighten it down. That way the part that engages the seal is centering the cover around it and there is less likelihood of it being off of the seal hole and causing a leak/weep. I'm not sure there are dowels on an SBF, on a Cleveland cover yes, but I'll have to look at some of the front covers in the shop. If there are they aren't extremely tight within the hole because when I use the damper snout there is enough movement for a really good alignment. It becomes even more important if the block has been align bored/honed.

[onefastmustang]

Hmmm. Where can I get dowels for a 41 year old motor.

[Rick Parker]

I do not recall rowels on my 289. Maybe later 302's had sleeve dowels on a couple of bolt holes(??)

[thudmaster]

any auto machine shop will have them..........

[Three Peaks]

My 351W didn't have any dowels when I installed my timing cover just a couple months ago. Just make sure the seal opening is centered on the crank snout before tightening the bolts and it should be fine. If your balancer shaft doesn't fit tightly in the seal opening, you may need to get some oversized bushings to fit on the balancer shaft just for this purpose. Most automotive machine shops can point you in the right direction of these bushings.

Bob

[Rick Parker]

I believe the OEM tool for the later covers (that fit the seal from the front) was round and had a hole in the center that slid over the crank snout and located in the seal bore. Then the cover was secured, the tool removed and the seal then installed. On the older covers with the seal installed from the back the tool centered on the seal. Without the correct tool, just use the balancer as a guide with the seal installed, and be sure the bottom surface of the front cover is even with the bottom edge of the engine block pan gasket surface then carfully tighten the bolts that attach the cover.

[lovehamr]

I'm with woodz, I use the balancer snout to align the T/C. I've never seen a SBF with alignment dowels for the T/C either, maybe mine were just all old. In any rate, if it did have dowels then they would be wrong after the block was align-bored so you would have to do the same sort of thing with the T/C that you have to do with the B/H after an align bore. You know, offset dowels, micing all the way around etc. What a pain in the azz that would be and it's just not that critical.

Steve

[Mark O'Neal]

The worlds best alignment tool is a damper sleeve from a 460 Ford.

[onefastmustang]

I spoke to a local ford engine builder and he said that there should be two dowels in the block but they don't fill the timing cover hole 100% so that the timing cover can move a little bit to adjust the seal to balancer fitment. I am stopping by his shop to get some of them.

[puppster]

All of my SBF haves had the dowles. 1965 289, 1966 289, and 1982 302. I've never had an issue with a leaky timing cover.

[Clois Harlan]

I either leak at the back of the intake or the oil pan (not main bearings) but never around the timing cover. Just lucky I guess, today no leakes anywhere...

[onefastmustang]

When putting the timing cover on should the alignment at the bottom with the block matter or the alignment with the balancer? I took my car out for a drive today and oil everywhere. I didn't see any dripping on the seal but there was some on the gasket for the oil pan. I dropped the pan and there was oil between the gasket and the block. Also there is about an 1/8" ledge off of the block to the timing cover. Should that get filled with RTV?

[Rick Parker]

If you are speaking of the pan sealing surfaces, they should be flush.

[Caprimaniac]

"I always align it with the damper snout before I tighten it down". This is how it shoul be done.

If any misalignment with block at the pan sealing surfaces, I use a file/ grinder to smooth out the steps and lets a dab of RTV silicone or the rubber gasket take up the uneven surfaces.

[Keithc8]

The early blocks do not have the front cover alignment dowels. What you need to do is center the seal on the crankshaft. We do this by using an allen wrench that just fits between the seal and crank all the way around and then tighten. be careful it will move when it is tightened. If the allen wrench fits the same all around you are good to go. It may or may not line up well on the bottom where the oil pan goes. this is jut production parts for you. The later blocks used a dowl in the block and the front cover was machined with a hole in it so that the front cover would side over the dowl. I think they got a lot better on their front covers and bock work when they did this. Just center on the crankshaft and you will be fine, this is what the seal runs on.

Good luck, Keith

[PoppyMod]

Hey Guys,

While on the subject of leaks, I'll offer this. A couple of easy ways to minimize the potential for leaks is to reduce the internal pressures that cause leaks. This is accomplished thorugh the installation of either a closed PCV system or evac system. I chose the closed PCV system and I, virtually, have no "seepage". Obviousley, proper sealing and gasket installation practices have to be followed.
Just another thought...