Bermblaster To start with that camshaft is nasty. 104LSA Narrow power band and peaky. I would love to see a dyno sheet on this motor. If Crane is still making camshafts, there are 2 hydro rooler lifter ones in the high .500" lift that will give you a rough idle and strong midrange if degreed. I am sure Comp has about the same thing. The other person I would call is Keith Craft. Keith has alot of custom camshafts that you can't buy the profiles for. He did all the testing and dynoing to get the power he wanted. The same applys for FE motors.
Getting back to hydro roller camshafts. I have been runnng hyrdo rollers in an FE motor for 5 years. There are some tricks for pushing them to a 6,500 rpm limit. I run a HVHP
oil pump with 100# spring in it. I run 15-40 Rotella
oil in the motor with 1 bottle of Lucas
oil suppliment. Cold start pressure are in the 135# range +-3 psi. When operating at race temps, 65-80 psi at 2,000 rpms with an idle of 35-40. 8 quart oil pan, 3 quart accusump, and cooler for oil in front of car. I also run the oil 1.5 quarts over full for racing. I have the diamond canton windage tray. I like this over the solid tray because it helps spary the oil around the motor more. If I was looking for just HP, A drysump system, controlled drains, plugged lifter valley would all be looked at. Hydro lifters, I have mine per loaded to .015"-.018" on the plunger. This does 2 things, 1st when the lifters pump up at high rpms, there is no possible damage of valves being left open and hitting pistons or losing compression. 2nd it makes the motor run like a solid lifter motor from the high oil pressures.
The big thing is about matching parts for the rpm range you want to run in.
I saved the best for last, BEEHIVE valve springs. I have been running the same set for 12 years, no failures. spring have lost 8-10 pounds of closed pressure and 20 on full open. I went from having a flutter at 6,200 rpms down to 5,800 rpms because of the Erson rockers are heavier than stock adjustable ones. The motor will still go to 6,500 rpms but I don't push it. 6,200 is max chip in the MSD 6al box. With Beehive springs I got 12 hp 8 ft of torque without any other changes. The motor responce was sharper also.
If you are going to build another motor, and it's a stroker, drop the rpm limit, build a torque motor and forget HP. This motor will live alot longer, still have you changing underwear sometimes.
If you look some of the guys in Engine Masters and aftermarket heads are sell beehive springs on them now. The lighter the valve train can be made the more power both HP and torque will be produced. Build a good size windsor in the 390+ cubes, a camshaft with a .550+ lift on a 110-112 LSA. Degree the camshaft 2 degrees for torque. It will give you a little lope and haul the bacon. Look at Ernies (excalipers) post about bigger is not always better, just bigger and more problems. This is a street car? If you want to talk about this send a private e-mail. Rick L.
I read your cam card
Threaded Mode
