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Old 09-18-2010, 10:11 AM
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Default What Standard Parts fit a Roush?

I have a Roush 427 Dart block SRTW. When I go to the parts store and they ask what kind of car do you have I get tongue tied! What can I say that will describe the 427 so I get the parts I need? I'm tempted to answer something like: "I've got the most incredible dream racing machine that by some fluke is street legal." Of course if you say it's a Cobra they ask you year is that Mustang?

I'm sure some parts are pretty standard and will fit fine. What about something a little unique to the Cobra, like the gasket between the thermostat and the puke tank? Do you get blank gasket material and cut your own? Maybe Roush has everything and I should call them. That doesn't help much when you need something today.

Ah, the pleasures of owning a dream machine....
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Old 09-18-2010, 04:20 PM
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Ward - most parts cross reference over. I know the 351 W Thermo housing gaskets are a standard stock item but bring the housing with you to the store to make sure. Remember to buy two sets for each side of the spacer...if you have one.
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Old 09-18-2010, 04:21 PM
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The Dart block is basically a heavy duty 4 bolt main 351 block, just tell them you need a part for a 1995 Ford F-150 with a 351-W, that should do for most any bolt on part.........

It's a PITA that some parts people can't find a single part without a year/make/model, the're not smart enough to know what to look for...Luckily, at one local parts house, the guy is a friend and drag racer, I just tell him what part I need and he goes in the back and gets it 90% of the time without looking it up in a book or computer!!!!!!!

David
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Old 09-18-2010, 07:20 PM
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I either say 1979 f150 or 1992 5.0liter, sometimes one works other times the other works.
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Old 09-21-2010, 12:44 PM
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Tell them a 1994 Lightning Pickup which came with a 351W. A lot of 5.0 pieces will interchange too.
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Old 09-21-2010, 09:41 PM
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OK, thanks.
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Old 09-29-2010, 03:34 AM
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1995 mustang cobra R is a 351 w,

The 351W is a 302 with the head mounting surfaces 1.00" upward from the 289 / 302 deck.

8.2" vs 9.5" deck height

So the only real parts that are different from a 302 (externally visible ) are ;

Alternator brackets
Distributor
Intake manifold
Flywheel (sometimes/depending)
Exhaust manifolds (mustangs)

People chime in with other notes.

Steve
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Old 09-29-2010, 09:50 AM
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Common parts on a 302 and 351-W:

head gaskets
intake gaskets
water pump
timing chain cover
cylinder heads will interchange

right off, that's about all I can think of,maybe a few other parts,but not many more........

David
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Old 02-16-2011, 12:24 PM
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With respect to thermostats, I recently contacted Roush on what brand/temp they recommend. They were extremely nice and sent me a 160 deg F with a hole drilled, specifying that the hole should be in the 12 o'clock position for install. Maybe this solves Roush's perspective on the question of no hole vs hole... The thermostat looks just like the a premium one you'd get from NAPA for a 351W engine. It does not look like the one I received with the engine.
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Old 02-16-2011, 03:54 PM
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Interesting how things change......they used to be 180's? As for the hole well I was told By BDR to drill 3 eighth inch holes in mine to help with the cooling issue. I drilled one as I live in new england and drive it in spring and fall. The one hole helped but was not a cure, plus motor would not come up to temp on cool spring or fall days.

So I installed the enhanced radiator with a 180 stant and no holes. Motor now idles without going over 190 and the fans actualy cycle on and off not staying on 100% of time.

Personaly I don't think lowering the temp of stat on a street car or drilling holes is a wise option. JMHO
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:31 PM
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I do not support the 160F thermostat. After extensive testing I found most thermostats open at there stated value but do not close until 10F below their value. If you had a cooling system equivalent to a superformance then your engine would run at 152F which is horrible. You will wear your engine out, cylinder walls will be cold while piston is hot, there are numerous charts demonstrating this. Go with the 180F it seams to be the sweet spot between performance and longevity. In addition with the 160f you oil will take forever to get to temperature. EVERY SINGLE NEW CAR MANUFACTURE RUNS THEIR ENGINES AT 212F, THE OPTIMIUM TEMP FOR COMBUSTION, EMISSIONS, LONGEVITY.
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Old 02-16-2011, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by PANAVIA View Post
1995 mustang cobra R is a 351 w,

The 351W is a 302 with the head mounting surfaces 1.00" upward from the 289 / 302 deck.

8.2" vs 9.5" deck height Thats 1.300" not 1.00"

So the only real parts that are different from a 302 (externally visible ) are ;

Alternator brackets
Distributor
Intake manifold
Flywheel (sometimes/depending)
Exhaust manifolds (mustangs)

People chime in with other notes.

Steve
Pan gasket set ( due to larger rear main cap),
Oil Pan,Cyl head bolts(1/2"UNC-although late 351 might be 7/16''UNC like 302)
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Old 02-16-2011, 05:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by madmaxx View Post
I do not support the 160F thermostat. After extensive testing I found most thermostats open at there stated value but do not close until 10F below their value. If you had a cooling system equivalent to a superformance then your engine would run at 152F which is horrible. You will wear your engine out, cylinder walls will be cold while piston is hot, there are numerous charts demonstrating this. Go with the 180F it seams to be the sweet spot between performance and longevity. In addition with the 160f you oil will take forever to get to temperature. EVERY SINGLE NEW CAR MANUFACTURE RUNS THEIR ENGINES AT 212F, THE OPTIMIUM TEMP FOR COMBUSTION, EMISSIONS, LONGEVITY.
I agree, going to a lower temp thermostat is a bandaid for a heating issue, not the answer....more often than not, the problem lies with under drive pulleys or incorrect sized pulleys,or incorrect sized fans/radiator for the application,granted in a lot of Cobra's,you just can't fit the proper size radiator........A 180 thermostat should work fine in 99% of the applications and the hole/holes are mainly there to let excees air escape during filling the cooling system and a by-product is a little more water flow..

I've expiremented with 4 different size radiators and as many electric fans and 2 different water pumps and 3 or 4 different pulley combinations on my 65 Fastback for about a year so I could do 45 to 60 minutes of idling in mid july for parades till I got it down, the biggest single factor I found was pulley sizes!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! all the while using a "standard" 180 thermostat with 3 small holes in the flange.

David
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