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Shorter Oil Pan - Buy or Build?
I want to use a shorter oil pan (perhaps 1" shorter than the stock 7.5"pan) on my '69 351W. This is a front sump, stock stroke, stock pan presently.
I looked at Summit Racing and found a Milodon (31360) that is listed as 6" depth, but it doesn't look shorter and on another site, that pan is listed as being even deeper than stock (oddly enough, I don't find it on the Milodon site to confirm dimensions). Any suggestions? Secondly, I'm thinking of making my own pan by taking a stock pan and cutting it shorter and welding up a wider bottom. It seems straight forward. Is there anything I need to know besides needing to make a shorter pickup? This is a street application. |
By an Armando or Canton but don't build your own it will cost more in the long run.
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I agree with Clois, but I know the Canton pans are stock depth, so that will not help you......... Keep searching and ask the manufacters for the exact measurements,I'm sure someone makes one a little shorter,you just gotta find it/them..... David |
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Cheers from Dugly :cool: |
My 9 qt. Canton "skid-plate" pan is over an inch shorter than the stock front sump pan I took off my 351W. My oil pan went from the lowest point on the car to 5th or 6th lowest.
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Thanks for the input all.
Jim, I looked at the Cantons at Summit and they all are 8" depth vs the 7.75 stock. Do you have a part number? |
http://aviaid.com/shopsite_sc/store/...s_sbf-ss2.html
Shows them at the same depth 7 1/2". If you can find one that is shallow buy it. If you insist on making your own I can help with parts for it but mine are as original road race with internal baffles etc. |
My original pan was over 9" with the drain plug straight out the bottom. It was a junkyard motor, so it may have been from a truck.
My Canton is the 15-680S. |
Build it the way you want it
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Click the gallery icon next to my avatar and look at the home made pan in my gallery. At the rear it is 4.5" deep and a the front it is 4" deep. It comfortably holds 10+ quarts of oil. There is a oil control baffle, trap door and swinging pickup inside all covered with a windage tray. Total cost for the pan - less the swinging pickup was $300 including the powder coating. Give some thought to doing it yourself. It is amazing what you can build with a water jet or laser cutting job shop around your house. Ed |
Jim,
Come to think of it, I don't know how deep my pan is. I'm just assuming it is 7.75" as listed as OEM on the Summit site. Maybe 8" is shorter than what I have. Very nice Ed. Yes, I have no fear that I can fabricate something nice myself. I like fabrication, but if something is out there for the right price, it will save me another project. It looks like I need to do some measuring and make sure I know what I'm talking about first. |
Try these people there is one that is 6 1/2" for the 351w, I think you will like the price.
http://kevko.net/ford.htm |
Those are good prices. Thanks.
I've confirmed that my pan's depth is 7.75". Descriptions such as this leave me confused (from the Kekvo web site): "Part # F201 | F202 Ford Rear Sump Pans Fits cars with front steer and engine set back. This 9 quart pan has 4 gates, 2 diverters, a scraper and oil level plug, painted black finish. The sump is 7 1/2" deep, 12" wide and 10" long. The front of the 351W pan is 6 1/4" deep," So is it 7 1/2" or 6 1/4"? It leaves me wondering what the real dimensions are of "Part # F503 | F504 Ford Rear Sump Sportsman Pan This pan is 6 1/2" deep, 14" wide, kicked out on both sides, 4 gates, scraper and removable tray. 8 qt capacity." I'll give them a call. |
It is a rear sump pan so the rear sump is 7 1/2" and the front is 6 1/4"
Check this one on that page. Part # F503 | F504 Ford Rear Sump Sportsman Pan This pan is 6 1/2" deep, 14" wide, kicked out on both sides, 4 gates, scraper and removable tray. 8 qt capacity. Engine Pan Part # Pickup Part# 302 F503 F503-1 $250.00 $40.00 351w F504 F504-1 $250.00 $40.00 |
Thanks for this thread. My oil pan sets about 1/2" lower then the front cross member. makes me real nervous.
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Yes, that's the one I was considering (F504 F504-1). I'll call them to confirm details. Thanks.
Yes, my pan is about 1" below the frame and below the front of the car. Next in line is to cut the flange off the bottom of the scatter shield. That sumbich is always paving the centerline humps on rural roads. |
I wanted a shorter pan for my cobra as I was having problems with scraping it at times. It was a 7.5" front sump. I selected a CHAMP Road Racing oil pan. It had a 7" deep rear sump with a scraper, windage tray, 4 trap doors, two drain plugs, one temperature bung. It holds 7 quarts. The sump is 9X14. It is very well constructed and I'm happy with it. I have pictures in my album.
Lou |
The only short pans I've seen are the rear sump. I don't understand how they fit. With the one I was considering, the wings will be in the same space as the starter, no?
I decided to make my own. It turned out to be pretty easy. The old pan and $15 of sheet metal made up a nice front sump pan one inch shorter. |
Nice, you saved 300.00. How did you get the pickup to fit?
The Ford Mini started fits above the pan wing with plenty of clearence. I posted a picture in my album. I use a HV pump also Lou |
The pan is done, but I still need to cut and re-weld the pickup. The part that bothers me is how to do this and be sure there are no loose pieces of metal inside the pipe that might break off later. In order to shorten it, it must be welded in the middle of the pipe, not on either end, where it is easily inspected. I'll really have to take my time welding it up. It's not my best skill.
It's on the back burner at the moment. Plenty of rainy season to finish it. |
Lou,
I see 11 pictures in your gallery, but none of the starter or oil pan. Is it posted somewhere else? |
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