Joe Gibbs Racing Hot Rod

Royal Purple 5W30 XPR

Brad Penn 15w-40 running a solid lifter cam.

Golden Spectro and Rotella are well thought of for ZDDP additive.
But I am intrigued by really good quality synthetic oils for engines manufactured since 1990. Anyone else had good luck with synthetic racing oils in newer engines.....?
The BMW folks-especially for the older cycles-swear by Golden Spectro for all applications as they have different oils.

Unique MotorCars 427-
351 Windsor Performance Class III
Medium blue Wimbledon stripe

At the shop where i Work, I've been using Mobil 1 15w-50 in many different makes of motorcycles, both newly manufactured & vintage, including Ducati, BMW, Triumph, Honda, Suzuki, H-D, Yamaha, It works very well in 99.99% of all cases.

In case the rare case of clutch slippage I use Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w-40 which is specifically designed for motorcycles with wet clutches.

Z.

We have used about every oil possible. We will only warranty our engines if Joe Gibbs is used. If you look at the facts it has more ppm zinc and less ppm detergent than most any other oil. Try to stay away from most all oil that you can buy through a regular parts store. Those oils have to meet the lasted epa standards which have taken most all zinc out and added lots of detergents. As you well know zinc is what bonds the oil to the metal and the high ppm detergents wash the zinc away. This works great for late model stock engines with overhead cams and low spring pressure. Bottom line, make sure there is plenty zinc in the oil to save problems in the future.

Keith:
What is the ZDDP level in JG oil? Most store bought oils (Castrol, Mobil1, Pennzoil) are around 800 PPM.

Bob

your statement is too much of a generalization. Most 10w-30 oils are around 800 ppm of zinc/phosphorus. Increased zinc/phosphorus levels can easily be found in other weights, and in 10w-30 as well if you look.

In the Mobil 1 line-up for example, levels in excess of 800 ppm can be had in:


0w-40,
5w-50,
5w-50,
5w-40,
15w-50
5w-30 High Mileage,
10w-30 High Mileage,
10w-40 High Mileage,
Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10w-40 (designed for motorcycles w/ wet clutches)
Mobil 1 V-Twin 20w-50 (designed for motorcycles w/ wet clutches)
Mobil 1 Racing 0W-30
Mobil 1 Racing 0W-50

Last time I looked, the local Wal-Marts were stocking the following Mobil 1 increased zinc/phosphorus level oils. Pretty easy to find :

5w-30 High Mileage,
10w-30 High Mileage,
10w-40 High Mileage,
5w-40,
15w-50


http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/...duct_Guide.pdf


Z.

What is wrong with using Castrol 10 W 40 non synthetic if you are not racing your engine? I have had outstanding results with Castrol all my life. Perhaps I am not convinced yet that synthetic oils are all that great. I have a 427 FE side oiler.
Basque1

I think you have to take each oil on a case-by-case basis and research what the current formula is. Some new formulations have little resemblance to what the oil used to be. So a given oils history of being adequate in the past isn't a good indication of how it will perform today.

Many manufacturers have published the zinc/phosphorus specifications for their current line-up of products. I would be suspect of a manufacturer that was not forthcoming with new data on their products.

Z.

The Jo Gibbs has about 2500 PPM ZDDP in the oil and very low detergents which fight for the same mmetal as the ZDDP trying to clean it of the metal. They pretty work agaianst each other. This is the problem with most sote bought iols, the low level of ZDDP and the high detergent content. This all helps the converter last longer which is what they are after. You can no longer run oil that is approved for todays car with more than 800 PPM ZDDP in the oil because the way they have warranty the converters.
Our engines that we run in most of the older cars and high performance cars require more of the ZDDP and less detergent. This is why there were so many flat-tappet cams going down in the last 5 years. We have no problme with them as long as we run the Jo Gibbs oil. There may be some other that are similiar but if the have the AP symbol on the container thay can have no more than 800PPM of ZDDP. Hope this helps a little.

Thanks, Keith Craft

does that go for the sbf ford as well

Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil. I pulled my oil pan in the middle of the winter and removed a main cap. Crank journal and bearing looked great and the oil just seemed to cling to the metal surfaces everywhere. The oil looks like there's something in it, its just not real clear, like Brad Penn oil.

Keithc8, I'm sold on Joe Gibbs. I would like to ask you what JG blend you would recommend with my motor, I've gone through their website and it seems several oils "apply" but one certainly has to be a best fit. Here are the specifics of my environment and expected driving style, the motor is brand new and still needs about 500 miles to finish break-in.

All Aluminum 427 SBF (DART Block, Edelbrock heads & manifold)
Comp Ratio: 10.4, Crank HP expected to be ~500
Residence: SF Area (CA), 28-105F are the yearly temp extremes
Weekend Driver but will hammer it on those nice northern CA open roads frequently
Car may sit for a couple of months during the rainy season
During Run-In: Oil Temp reached 180F, Fuel Pressure showed 60 psi - for what it's worth
Builder has Kendall GT-1 High Performance Racing Formula with Added Zinc, SAE 20W-50 shown in photo

My preference would be to get a JB blend that will give me maximum engine life, thousands & thousands of trouble free miles - don't want to rebuild it ever :D Any advice would be greatly appreciated, thanks.

Great post and I'm learning a bit.
I have a roller cam/lifter but I do think the zinc content is useful in regards to the rings. Does the zinc content of oil play a big role on ring/cylinder wear as well? I would think so based on KeithC8 description on the role of zinc and it's bonding characteristics.

Let me clarify my statement, when I said ,not clear to see through, I meant that it was similar to Brad Penn oil, very opaque.

Joe Gibbs is the best, I'm running 15/50 Hot Rod oil
in my 408 roller, 2 1/2 years 18,000 miles.......
Great tec support on any questions you may have,
UPS to your front door, great service...... Spur....

I have a very similar setup. I talke to lake speed junior at Joe Gibbs and he recommended the hr1 15-50 hot rod oil. I would say you would be in the same boat. Their fully synthetic is great as well but lots of engine builders will tell you that synthetics tend to leak more.

BTW, Keith, when you mention the JB, do mean dino or sythetic?
Does it matter?

mpanten, that is one but HR-2 looks like a better fit maybe? I'm not a big block, or blown, or have loose bearing clearances.

HR-1
15W-50

• STORAGE PROTECTION
Uses the same oil additive technology developed for the U.S.
Military for storing and shipping their combat equipment.
Protects against rust and corrosion so your engine is protected
even when it’s not running.

• HIGH ZINC CONTENT
Higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP) than regular passenger car oils.
Delivers proper anti-wear protection for older style push-rod
and flat-tappet engines.

• CAMSHAFT WEAR PROTECTION
Superior camshaft wear protection chemistry. The same wear protection found in Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil which has powered Joe Gibbs Racing to multiple NASCAR Championships.

Applications:
• Perfect for big block muscle cars and blown street rods. Excellent high temperature protection. Good for loose bearing clearances.


HR-2
10W-30

• STORAGE PROTECTION
Uses the same oil additive technology developed for the U.S.
Military for storing and shipping their combat equipment.
Protects against rust and corrosion so your engine is protected
even when it’s not running.

• HIGH ZINC CONTENT
Higher levels of Zinc (ZDDP) than regular passenger car oils.
Delivers proper anti-wear protection for older style push-rod
and flat-tappet engines.

• CAMSHAFT WEAR PROTECTION
Superior camshaft wear protection chemistry. The same wear protection found in Joe Gibbs Driven Racing Oil which has powered Joe Gibbs Racing to multiple NASCAR Championships.

Applications:
• Great for small block engines and "crate" motors.
• 10W Multi-Grade formula provides excellent start-up protection.