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cheers chris here is a pic before it went in. http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...k/P1000413.jpg And my baby the red vert on the left http://i160.photobucket.com/albums/t...52358872_n.jpg |
Please keep us posted, Chris. This will tell a lot about Ford Racing. Sorry you went through this, but it seems a solution is on the horizon. I bought my 427w in October of 2010. The seals are not orange.
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Thanks mark, i will keep you posted on what they do, if you look at the pics i added obove your post the red coup in the middle and the spring time yellow vert on the right have roush engines in them, i wanted to be different and went ford racing.
cheers chris. |
I think you figured it out, most vendors are only reactive. Let the customer take it in the a$$$ and we know our liabilities and will move at a pace within our contractual agreement. That why I suggest Keith Craft, Blykins, they are small enough they cant afford to be reactive, and they actually give a sheet.
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Good to know...
Good info about the Orange Seals. Once I get to my first start, if it burns oil that will be the first thing I check.
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Which would be easier to change first in the event of similar oil consumption issues, the valve stem seals or the intake gasket?
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Both are a pain, but for different reasons. I hate opening a perfectly good intake given you have to drain the coolant, disconnect fuel lines and linkage, remove the distributor (not always), and scrape gasket and sealant. Valve seal are much less invasive, but do require removing rocker arms, finding a way to retain the valves (usually air) while you remove the locks and retainers, and then install rockers and readjust all the valves. Given a choice, I would always go for replacing seals.
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I replaced the seal in a 351 last month. I use an adapter to blow air into the cylinders. I borrowed a tool to compress the spring and a magnet to remove the keepers. A third hand makes it a lot easier. It took about 1 1/2 hours to replace the seals.
Dwight When you remove the intake, drain the oil first or plan on new oil when you finish. |
Well just an update ford racing have gone all quiet they will not reply to my emails now that i have told them they are hiding this issue, i know 2 other 427's here in sydney that had to get the orange seals changed and if you include mine that makes three and there tech line had the nerv to tell me they have had no issues with seals, don from the ffcars forum told me his 427 had bad seals but could not tell me the colour as he just pulled the motor out and sent it back, yes we had to pull a pefectly sealed intake and that has totally pissed me off!!! thanks to there good for nothing tech line, so BEWARE ANYONE THAT HAS ORDED ONE OF THESE 427'S check the seals before install if there orange just change them or better still before you recieve it demand that the seals are not orange, shame on you ford racing for the way you are treating me,
chris |
Okay an hour after my lasy post i got a email from ford racing, if changing the seals fix's the problem they asked me to send the bill and they will run it by management.
chris. |
I think punative damages are in order. Make sure you include that!
Good to hear they responded. I love how empowered people are to make a decision. |
Definitely include the intake gasket they sent you on a wild goose chase with.
I have one I ordered in late July 2011. Anyone know if or when they fixed this problem? I had my valve covers off to swap left for right, but didn't look. I started it for the first time last night and it was smokey, but didn't smell like oil smoke. It was way rich and retarded. |
Luce, mine was rich and retarded at first start also. I fixed the timing (16 at idle, 950 rpm and 32 total all in by 3200 rpm), but my very rich issue seems to be a cracked baseplate on the carb. I've swapped carbs, changed the oil and filter, and will try to start it again and tune the carb today. We'll see how it goes. Good luck to both you and Chris!
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cheers chris. |
I'm still a long ways from driving mine, so I won't know about the seals any time soon, but I will remember tthe his discussion.
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Well, looks like I'll be pulling valve covers to get a look. I did some tuning yesterday and got the no load parts of my VE map running fairly good. I stopped it and let is set for a few minutes, then restarted it and got a visit from the blue Genie. It's only 5 bolts on one side, but I have to remove the fuel pressure reg to see the other side. At least it doesn't knock and has good oil pressure.
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I wonder if your seals are orange?, please let us know and make sure you let ford racing know aswell, this is not good.
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I'll make it a point to look this evening. You're right. I bought a Ford Racing because I thought I was getting top quality stuff. This wasn't a cheap engine considering all of the parts you have to provide.
Would you mind PM'ing me the contact info for who you're dealing with? |
Yep, I have the orange seals. What a *****! What's wrong with them? Not tight enough on the valve stem?
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Luce, man that sucks! It is the intake valves that are the real problem. On the intake stroke, oil is pulled past the seal. However, it is easier to change them now before you have bigger problems.
Did Ford say that ALL orange seals are a problem? If you are not seeing oil in your exaust or fouling your plugs, perhaps your are fine? |
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