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Ford Racing 427 burning oil
Gday all
First time poster, I have just fitted a brand new 427 crate engine(M-6007-Z427FFT) from ford racing to my 68 mustang, i know its not a cobra but i'm sure some of you guys have used this engine and maybe you guys can help,from the first start up once it got to norm temp it would smoke out the exhaust, its definatly oil ive done 300 miles now and no better, it only does it at hot idle, no smoke when cold but as engine warms up it starts to smoke( blue smoke) once you take off it does not smoke and as soon as you stop and start to idle its stinks and smokes, i don't know alot about engines and just wondering if anyone has had any issues with these crate engines, are the intake gaskets that come with the motor any good, my mechanic is adament its not leaking from the inlet manifold and doesn't want to pull it off ,its a super victor manifold which has been ceramic coated , he is saying the motor is a dud, i don't agree, can someone give me any ideas, you can actually wipe the oil from the tail pipes with your fingers it has probably used half a quart in 300 miles :CRY: any help would be appreciated , i shipped the motor direct from the usa to here in sydney cheers chris. |
I have that same engine, but only just started it a few weeks ago. Mine doesn't do that, but it will burn a little oil until the rings set. Yours sounds excessive. Assuming it is not getting past the rings (at least not that much), sounds like it is coming through the intake. Can you pull the carb and take a look in the manifold? Those giant runners will make it easier!
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Thats what my mechanic is going to do, i wasn't sure if that would work, would he be able to see by looking down the runners if it is leaking from the inlet manifold? link below at start up if you look close you will see smoke coming from the tips
cheers chris ps thanks for quick reply, i'm pretty upset over this :( 68 Mustang 427 motor start up - YouTube |
Very hard to see on the video (for me anyway), but the smoke looked black, which would be a rich condition. Oil smoke is usually blue or a bluish white. Sometimes a sooty tailpipe mixed with condensation will look like oil as well.
Based on your description, I would have your mechanic check out the valve seals and intake manifold gaskets just to be safe. I wasn't aware that these engines came from Ford with intakes installed. Did your mechanic install it? Engines will need a little break-in time if they haven't been dyno'd. |
Forgot to mention yes my mechanic did fit the intake manifold, its definatly oil you can smell it and its blue, hard to tell in vid,also half a quart in 300 miles i think is excessive, i'm going to ask him to do a leak down test, i have had no luck my previous motor was a 408w which did not last long due to a poor rebuild so this time i thought i would go crate and now this, i'm gutted
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Chris, I completely understand how upset you are! This could be a nightmare given you had it shipped from the US. However, there is a very good chance that it can be resolved without great expense.
While I couldn't really see anything from your video, it did answer two questions for me. You did retain the tall valve covers that came with the engine and you are running a pcv valve. Good. Since the oil is in the tailpipe, we can safely assume it is inthe combustion chamber. But is it in all of them? You have enough miles to read the plugs. Is it equal in all or are there one or more cylinders affected. Check the plugs for oil fouling. Once you have isolated the cylinders, you need to determine the source. Really only three: Valve seals, rings, or intake. Start with the inspection of the intake runners and then pull the valve covers and visually inspect the seals. All of this is about an hours work and should give you a good idea of the next steps. Good luck and keep us posted. Mark |
Possible Valve Seal issue...
Here is a link to FFCars.com to a fella who had what sounds like the same issue with his Ford Racing BOSS 427 Crate engine:
#257 Go cart - bittersweet.... - FFCars.com : Factory Five Racing Discussion Forum I'm a little nervous... cause I have the same engine, but have not started it yet. Hopefully I will in the next few months. Hope this info is helpfull... good luck. |
Well, it seems his were valve seals. That's the easiest and cheapest of the possible issues! Things may be looking up...
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When you pull the pcv out with the engine running, is there blow by??? Is there oil in the pcv hose?
Is there a baffle under the pcv valve cover? Has to be something simple....I hope. |
No blow by , no oil in the pcv, im hoping its the intake manifold and the then valve stem seals, if it is the valve stem seals can they be repplaced without pulling the heads off? , it would cost me more to pay my mechanic to pull the engine out and then send back for warranty, its not worth it , i'm better off just fixing here, i am going to speek to marty from FRPP on monday to see what we need to do but in the mean time i'm going to get my mechanic to do a leak down test after he has looked down the manifold.
I really appreciate your help guys, if any one else has had any issues like this or know anyone please post up, i looked at the date of that link and its around the same time my engine was built, hope there wasn't a bad batch of valve stem seals, i saved $3500 buying direct from the usa with the strong aussie dollar at the time compared to buying here and that was with the cost of getting it shipped here aswell, oh yes i did retain the rocker covers that came with the engine nothing was changed apart from adding the march serpentine pulley set and fitting the super victor using the gaskets supplied with the motor, and my mechanic is a fully qualified mechanic with years of expieriance in building and installing high hp engines. cheers chris. |
They are fairly easy to change and you do not have to remove the heads. You do have to remove the rockers, locks, retainers, and springs. The easiest way is to remove the rockers, use air to pressurize the cylinder through the spark plug hole (holds the valves in place), compress the spring (careful not to push on the valve stem too much so it drops into the cylinder), remove the locks (magnet works great), remove the retainer, and lift the spring off. Pop of the seal and replace it. Here are a couple of pictures of my GT40 engine when I was changing the springs. The object in the second picture is a magnet to catch the locks.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...0engine005.jpg http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v6...0engine006.jpg |
you can buy an adapter to screw into the spark plug hole to blow air into the cylinder. Summit sell them and you may find one at the your local parts store. Or do like I did and borrow one from my Ford mechanic. I did order one and Summit shipped it yesterday.
Dwight |
Becarefull with the $5.00 pos valve spring compressor shown, as you bend it over the threads on the stud will pull metal off the bar which winds up in your engine. Splurge for the $40.00 one from summit, plus you dont need a friends help.
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Unbelieveable. In typical forum fashion, we love spending other people's money. Those springs are huge and were made for a very high lift solid roller cam which I was changing in the picture. Also notice that those heads are set up with Jesel rockers. My son was compressing the spring in the picture only so we could take a picture. It is very easy to use by yourself. I've used that spring compressor on many engines over the last 20 years with zero problems. The tool works fine with none of the problems stated above. Far from a POS. You guys can make poor, yet expensive recommendations based on speculation or you can defer to experience. At the end of the day, it is your choice, Chris.
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I replaced my springs once with that tool you have and without a doubt was pulling metal particles and one splinter from the head with a magnet when done. It is a POS at $5.00 or $5,000. I also paid the kid across the street $20,00 to help me for an hour, he would work the tool I would remove the wedges. Get the one that screws on the stud and breaks over. The problem I have is to much experience which is frustrating when I see all the ignorance. Would you like a picture if the elongated hole in the tool from the studs tearing metal from it?
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Okay, perhaps I have one that's better made. Anyway, to each his own and Chris needs to hear options.
Good luck with your troubleshooting! |
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David |
Check out my add in for sale section. You can buy mine. I still have never figured out how to post pics in thread so I posted in the for sale section. I guess I am to use to using intuitive apple products.
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David |
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