351/427 Cylinder Heads
 

Due to a freaky situation, I may be needing a new set of cylinder heads for my Roush 427. It currently has the Roush heads on it. What would be a very good replacement??

Edelbrock Vic. Jr or AFR 205's with upgraded springs

Thanks

call Tony at Keith Craft or check out his web page.

He can sell you a CNC set of heads and they will make the power!

Dwight

His phone number is 870-246-7460

Well I will find out in the morning if I need a set, when I get in and take a peek. I'm sick over this!

We give up, what happened??

well here goes. Went out for a little canyon run with some friends yesterday. Through the mtns east of San Diego out to the desert, and back up the mtn.
As usual before I go on the runs, I give the car the once over, check the oil belts, hoses, tires and etc. The previous run about 6 weeks ago, I head a clanging noise up front. Stopped, and the bolt holding the breather on had backed out, and the breather had fallen off to the passengers side of the manifold and was resting against the valve cover. Was really thankfull it had not fallen on the linkage side of the carb. Took the breather off, finished the run and took it home. Just happened to have a threaded rod the same size but a little longer, and would go down the fitting on the carb a bit deeper. Screwed it in tight, put a nut on it tightened it down. Checked it each time I drove the car, remained tight no problems. (guess you can see where this is going by now) Checked it yesterday before the run, still tight and secure. In any event driving home after the run, just crusing behind traffic, let off the throttle going into a turn and the throttle hung up, was closing on the car in front of me, reached for the igintion switch at the same time I hit the clutch. the engine had just begun to race when it was shut off. It dieseled a bit, but shut down without anything weird happening or any signs of damage. Got out popped the hood, the nut that secured the breather was sitting on top of the breather, and the threaded rod was not there. Pulled the breather off, no sign of it anywhere. Looked in the carb did not see it, pulled the carb did not see it, ran a magnet in the runners as far as we could did not get it. Pull the manifold off tomorrow, and if it managed to get to the valves I can only imagine the damage it will have done.
Thing about it is, I will have a new carb Tue, and ..... but it has happend, so I deal with it, and go on. But i'm upset at myself, thankfull it did not come part during the run in the canyons, and just hope for the best at this point. Figure if I have to get new heads, might as well upgrade.

Are you speaking of the stud that secures the air filter assembly? That is pretty unusual to have that happen. Try using some Thread locker/ Locktite on the stud and the jamb nut and use a nylock nut on the top. There does not need to be a lot of clamping effort, just enough to pull the lid down to create a seal. The stud is long enough that it may not be able to navigate the curves in the manifold if it is in there......weird. If it got to a valve you certainly would have heard bad noise.
One thing I used to do was have a nut on the stud that would limit how far the lid could be pulled down. The lid essentially was sandwiched between the two nuts, the one under it was a flange nut secured (after trial and error fitting) with Red 262 Locktite.

Hope it didn't do any damage to your heads/engine. I would have thought that if it reached the valves you would have known it immediately as you can't mistake the noise it makes when the engine ingests something it shouldn't - don't ask how I know this....

For future reference, what I usually do when I use a threaded rod to hold down an air cleaner is put a locking nut on the rod where it threads into the carb and lock it down against the carb, then install the air cleaner and put a nut, wingnut, or acorn nut on top with a small lockwasher to keep it from spinning loose.

Good luck .

Bob

Thanks guys, in all my years never had this type of thing to happen.

AFR 205's.....perfect for that size engine.

i would use nothing less than afr220's as they are now called, used to be the 225's.

i'll bet everything is alright though. the stud probably launched itself off to the side.

It depends on what the goals are....

For most of the cams that we run on street cars, with around .600-.620" lift, you'd never tell the difference between the 205 and 220/225 cc heads. In fact they flow similarly in the normal valve lift ranges. Also, when you can keep up flow without a lot of port volume, velocity increases....so in most cases the 205 head would be a best case scenario for a street car.

If you start adding higher lift cams and CNC porting, then it can become a different ballgame.

Yes the air cleaner bolt always come loose, I used some loctite and it appears to be working, dont use a stud, better for the bolt to fall off than in the engine as you know. Heck pull the head send it back to AFR and let them rework, why reivent the wheel. I think it is an afr 205.

Are Roush heads, the AFR 205 heads??

intake off. bolt wedged tight in the #5 intake valve

yes call aft, i bet one of your heads has a bar code on it give them a call

Thanks. Hopefully it did not damage the seat/head too much, and it is salvageable

sorry for my horrible typing, my right hand is still recovering from neck nerve damage and i have begun to type with it again. I meant AFR.

MM
Don't apologize for your typing. Nothing wrong with my hands, and Stevie Wonder can type better than me!!!!