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Advice on 331 sbf
looking for advice on a 331 build , nice hyd roller cam will be a 4bbl carb build. Thinking on a alum block maybe ,like the 100lb weight loss . What is the best direction to take.
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This is an interesting read if you haven't already seen it. Small Block Ford Reality
Disclosure: I'm not endorsing these guys as engine builders, I'm only posting this as I found it an interesting perspective. |
I do them both on a regular basis, in both cast iron and aluminum.
The Dart aluminum blocks are so light that I can pick one up off the floor with one finger... Here's one that I did where I showed the build process: http://www.clubcobra.com/forums/adve...sbf-build.html There's a lot of tricks to the all-aluminum builds and a lot of stuff you have to watch out for... |
ok guys how does the shelby sbf alum block stand.. are these date coded like a hi po block. not looking for a ton of power just 400hp and be real nice low down for cruising.
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Well, here's the thing....
You pay a butt load for the Shelby name. Ridiculously expensive. Also, yes, they may be date coded, but they're also aluminum, which would negate the date code being accurate. ;) I've got 5 bolt 289 cores here if you're looking for something period correct. They can be stroked to 331/347 no problem. |
Thanks Brett. Really looking at alum block .. Not so much period correctness , maybe Dart/MOW alum block.
Yeah i followed Cliff engine build will be a real screamer when he gets his project all done. |
If you're wanting low end torque, go for the 347....no real reason to skip out on free cubic inches and power. All that you've heard about long stroke engines not revving or 347's using oil are internet wives tales, perpetuated by people who don't know...
The aluminum block will not be noticeable in the car unless you're racing scales and you'll save about $4500 on the build. Aluminum block builds are noticeably higher on the build difficulty scale as you have to account for the block's expansion in bearing clearances, valve lash/preload, and deck height. |
347 Brett nice number , i personally have no issue with the old wives tales.
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Last "mild" 347 I did, I used aluminum RHS heads, hydraulic roller, and a pretty low-performance dual plane intake because the guy needed as much hood clearance as possible. It still made 425 hp @ 5700 and 445 lb-ft @ 4500.
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I've been called worse..... ;)
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Sorry Brent thats my bad and to say i read enough of the posts with your name titled in them.
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is it about HP or weight? 400-450hp is a pretty fast gokart. Light weight is nice but, the car is going to feel pretty lively, even with a non roller cam & a 100 less HP.
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Light weight is nice. But, balance is better (IMO). The Roadster is already biased towards the rear (slightly). My car is 51% rear, 49% front with half a tank of fuel and an empty trunk. With 75-100# removed from the front, the weight will be even more biased to the rear.
Might consider moving the engine forward an inch or so. |
Yeah balance works better with these cars so maybe the alum block could be slight over kill... Bragging rights apply i guess.
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My car runs the best lap times with 55-57% rear.
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They don't seem to do too badly in the handling stakes. More weight to the rear allows for better traction to the rear wheels. Soothing that is limited in a cobra. |
If you were to purchase an aftermarket cast iron block in the 4.125" bore, you would have 364 cid. Obviously you would have a much stronger block with better oiling design, and that is worth something. The 17 cubes aught to be worth at least 20 Hp (figure un-shrouding the valves should help too).
So is the 20+ Hp and better block worth the $2500-3000 for the block? |
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