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[quote=jasond29;1475744]Brent is an awesome pool of knowledge but if I keep taking his advice on the build I am going to have to be in a full fire suit every time I want to go on a sunday cruise.[/QUOTE
???? Doesn’t everybody do that!!! |
If its a new block what has to be machined on it. I assume it would only need final hone to size. Or are these new blocks only semi machined ?
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it depends, the block comes rough bored to 4.115 so that needs to be finished to the desired bore. Needs to be decked, line honed, cam bearings installed....basically do a check on all dimensions to ensure that its correct. The blocks are mass produced so its a good idea to have everything checked to make sure its correct.
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Deck heights can be a little tall so a check of deck height would be in order if you are shooting for a minimum deck height finished project. If the deck heigh is consistent across banks and within a bank you can skip the decking operation and adjust dome cc's and piston pin height to get the compression you want to use. The engine builder has a number of different paths he can choose to finish the engine. Remember this is not a race engine that will be torn down and scrutinized for compliance with OEM specs so as to provide a level playing field for a competitive event. These are fun cars with fun engine builds, for fun times driving our toys. they are not being raced in a rules based, sanctioned competitive event. Ed |
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Got the heads today, look absolutely awesome Trick Flow twisted wedge race 225 heads with titanium valves and solid roller spring pack.
Also got all the extra tools I need to start putting this thing together. I ordered some paint from Cerakote to paint the engine. Going with burnt bronze. Hopefully next weekend I can have the shortblock cleaned/painted/built. This thing is going to look awesome. Thanks again Brent for all the machine work/parts. Last part is to decide what induction to use. |
I might add that a good scrubbing of the new block should be done. Any sand from the casting process that finds it's way into the oil is a very very bad thing. Sand in the coolant isn't good either.
Paint the outside first so you don't have to fight the rust and how do you get paint to stick if you get oil on it issues. You cannot clean it out too much. Soapy water and every scrub brush, bottle brush, and gun bore brush you can find, is where I start. Especially the oil galleries. Blow all the water off with a clean air source, and get some WD 40 to lift off any moisture and wipe it down a couple times to keep it from rusting. Also make sure the oil areas of the heads are clean too. Ovoid rags that make lent when you rub on a cast surface. |
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Alright, washed the block and oil pan thoroughly, cleaned all oil passages and lifter/cylinder bores using a engine brush kit and some detergent. Installed all the oil galley plugs and freeze plugs. Taped everything off and prepped the surfaces with acetone and a foam brush. Painted it using Cerakote Burnt Bronze ceramic coating. Came out awesome.
Hopefully this weekend will get the shortblock built. Gotta order a couple little things, timing cover, some gaskets, head stud kit. Once I get all that then I should be complete with the long block.....then its time to decide what induction to use. Definately going to be 8 stack efi of some sort. |
I would also "paint" in the inside surfaces with glyptal, or similar. Lifter valley, timing chain area, and underside of block. It protects the metal and promotes oil drain back.
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I know some guys do it, but I don’t advise any kind of coating or paint inside an engine anywhere, including glyptal. I have seen that stuff flake. Oil drains back just fine without it and I’ve never seen any need for it on any application.
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That was my concern as well. This is my first time using the cerakote and did not want to paint anywhere inside the engine, didn't want anything flaking and possibly clogging an oil passage or pickup tube.
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Back in the day, the hot rod magazines used to claim that electric motor winding paint (which I believe was glyptal) would seal up and bind to any loose sand from the casting process, that was missed in the cleaning process. Back then it likely didn't flake because powerful chemicals were used. Today the EPA has regulated most everything out of existence, so the good stuff that was once used is not available anymore.
In truth, a good cleaning is all that is needed. If you cannot get the surfaces that you can reach clean, then there is no chance of cleaning the oil galleries. Since engines are not dropping like flies with sand in the bearings, it's not a problem. |
When you get ready to do final assembly and install the rods and pistons give some thought to using this stuff from TotalSeal;
http://www.totalseal.com/tablet/imag...ick%20Seat.png It is like magic when it comes to a really nice cylinder wall finish and ring face finish. You can get it through Summit or Jegs. Ed |
I always dummy build my engines before paint.
What if the cam bearing fit is not to your liking? What if bearing crush on the mains is not right? (I have had one engine that had insufficient bearing crush, near zero, and the engine shop didn't know what I was talking about. Took the block to another shop, they linehoned the mains again.) Has valve to piston clearance, and all the clearances around the valvetrain been checked on a dummy run? Ring end gaps? Something could be wrong, and I would hate to have to take the block back. |
the block has been machined....no going back now. I know what your saying though and agree. I just got done checking the main clearances and they all are withing spec (0.0021 ish) across the board. Going to check the piston to wall clearance next and then rod clearance. I am sure there will be areas that need adjustment but I am confident the block is good as far as machining goes.
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Jason,
You understand what bearing crush is? This is what holds a bearing in it's bore, tighten one fastener and a gap is formed at the opposite parting face. 2 - 6 thou for mains. Not to be confused with bearing clearance. Your engine should look really nice by the time you're finished. Jim Inglese does some of his Weber combos in a similar color. |
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