351 Best Blocks???

pokedandstroked · #1 (**permalink**) 04-01-2005, 05:44 PM

I'm in the process of selecting a 351W Block to produce some significant HP. I would like to find the best foundation for this set up. Does anyone know what the best "one pc. rear seal" years are?? ie. nickel content, better main webbing, minor improvements over other years?
I'm new to the forum, any help would be greatly appreciated!!!

blykins · #2 (**permalink**) 04-01-2005, 05:52 PM

If you're wanting to really get some horsepower, it's my understanding that the earlier blocks are the beefiest.....60's and 70's vintage. Of course they have 2 piece seals.....

You're probably referring to the 90's blocks, right? Like in the Ford Lightning and Cobra R? I think they were vacuum cast as opposed to the older vintage blocks, which were sand cast. The bad side to vacuum cast blocks is that they are thinner in lots of areas.....

lovehamr · #3 (**permalink**) 04-01-2005, 07:05 PM

One word...................Dart.
Steve

69 Mach I · #4 (**permalink**) 04-02-2005, 01:41 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by lovehamr

One word...................Dart.
Steve

I concur. those things are phenominally strong. I bet you could stroke one to 427 and run 15 lbs of boost with no issues.

blykins · #5 (**permalink**) 04-02-2005, 06:41 AM

Oh....My bad...I thought he was wanting a run of the mill Ford production block.....sorry!

I agree....Dart block or a Ford Racing block....9.200" deck height....4.125" bore....4 bolt mains on each cap....dry or wet sump. Same block the Nascar guys run....

RACER X #99 · #6 (**permalink**) 04-02-2005, 07:36 AM

If you are talking serious small block HP 500+ don't screw around with any two bolt blocks. A stud girdle is just a band aid. Go for the Dart or the Ford racing block with the four bolt mains. All the serious HP brand X guys have been running 4 bolt blocks for years it's about time Ford and Dart made a good engine block.
If you just want a nice street engine 2 bolt is probably good enough.

Cranky

pokedandstroked · #7 (**permalink**) 04-02-2005, 07:57 AM

Ok guys heres the deal...
I have a friend who writes for a national mustang magazine. When I told him I was building a 408, he had a suggestion. He talked to his editor about doing a story on a 550 HP pump gas motor using a factory 351 block. He got the editor's buy in, and he instructed me to look for a block ASAP. I would like to use a Dart/Manowar/Sportsman block but it's not in the cards.
There are some fringe benefits when doing a motor build for a magazine article. Namely FREE PARTS!!! We have arranged to have a reciprocating assy, heads, cam, intake and carb set up contributed by advertisors so they can get their name in print.
Back to my original request, it really doesn't matter if I use a one pc. seal or two but I heard the two pc. units always develop leaks. If the older blocks are truly stronger, I'll add a vac. pump to the engine and it should resolve the problem.
Thanks for all the replies! I'll keep you posted with the latest developments and when the article should be published.

Jack21 · #8 (**permalink**) 04-02-2005, 02:53 PM

Summit has a tech article (Strokers Wild) detailing a build up of just auch an engine. Jegs has some tech specs on Kasse heads for big SBF's. Muscle Mustangs & Fast Fords had a head shoot out using a Windsor stroker for a dyno mule. All are making numbers you describe.

'68 & '69 blocks are strong, but about .020 shorter than '70 - up blocks. You might have to skin the pistons. We usually recommend '74 or earlier blocks because of strength, and to minimize registration hassles over emissions.

'75 - up blocks I'm not sure of as the exact year blocks began getting thinner.

The Ford Racing sportsman block is reasonably priced in machine work it doesn't need over a seasoned production block if registration is not an issue.

Free parts, eh? Hmmm! Might be time to test Kasse canted valve Windsor heads, and Aussie Cleveland C3V heads from CHI.

lovehamr · #9 (**permalink**) 04-02-2005, 03:35 PM

Free parts, eh? Hmmm! Might be time to test Kasse canted valve Windsor heads, and Aussie Cleveland C3V heads from CHI. [/b][/quote]

Now that's what I'd like to see! If you've done any reading at all about these heads this would be a great comparison. And by the way, I agree, if you can't use a four bolt block then I would go with the FMS sportsman. Two bolt mains but definitely not wimpy.
Steve

pokedandstroked · #10 (**permalink**) 04-03-2005, 11:30 AM

Thanks for the input Fella's!
I'm forced to go with Edelbrock heads for the article. It'll probably be the Victor heads (not the juniors). The engine builder selected to do the build for the article has theories that justify this rather aggressive head. Originaly, I intended on using the AFR 205CC heads but the that "free" word overuled my decision.
Anyways, I'm out of New York so the emissions thing will be a problem no matter what year block I use. I'll have to register the cobra out of state.
Thanks again, this club is alright...

blykins · #11 (**permalink**) 04-03-2005, 12:25 PM

Poked,

I used Edelbrock Vic Jr's on my Windsor stroker....

Make sure you use springs cups....They are not included when you buy assembled heads....

I bought a set with just valves only and assembled them to match my cam....

Keithc8 · #12 (**permalink**) 04-03-2005, 10:31 PM

The Victor heads will take a shaft rocker system, custom piston and custom headers as well. This head seems over kill and may create some problems with emmissions as well. You should be able to make 600HP no problem with these heads as well.
We use the early blocks because of the strenght and machine them for the one piece rear main seal in house. Thanks, Keith Craft

pokedandstroked · #13 (**permalink**) 04-04-2005, 06:41 PM

Keith,
I was aware everything but the custom header issue. I forgot about the raised ports on the Victors. Maybe I'll stick with the Victor jr CNC heads.
I appreciate it! By the way, if this is Keith Craft I'm communicating with, you make some serious engines bro. Great looking web site too.

Thanks for the "heads" up!

Frank