looking for your suggestions for a new intake

[69 Mach I]

I have a Torker II. From what I hear, it is crap, which might explain my unsatisfactory dyno numbers. I have been recommended to swap it out for a RPM Air Gap. Can anybody with experience opine on this:

Here is my build

1969 351W bored .060 over
forged eagle rods
forged Wiseco flat top pistons @ 11:1 CR
Edelbrock RPM Performer cylinder heads 60cc combustion chamber and 190 cc intake valve
Edelbrok Torker II single plane intake (makes its peak hp between 2500-6500 rpm) Holley 650 cfm 4 bbl carb (double pumper with vac secondaries)
stock 80 gph fuel pump
MSD 6AL ignition and HEI pro billet distrib
C6 transmission with 2200 stall converter and a trac loc

Here is my cam grind:

ADV DUR: INT 297, EXH 308
LIFT: INT 538, EXH 534
DURATION AT .50 DEGREES: INT 236, EXH 242 @ 108 centerline

dyno numbers are attached. I am at least 50 rwhp from where I should be. I don't know the total timing or AF for the moment

In additon to the new intake, I am also thinking about bumping up to a 750 carb. A holley blue fuel pump arrives Tuesday. Please feel free to comment or make constructive suggestions.

[Dennis Kelley]

You may not need a intake it you find out what the Air fuel ratio is at. I picked up 51 hp on timing alone. Was the dyno done with a wide band o2 sensor. Just use the dyno to tune don't get hung up on the numbers. An air gap is an excellant mainifold though. An automatic tranny eats some more hp than a manual. I'd shot for an air fuel ratio of 13 to 1. the dyno is great for tuning

later Dennis

[69 Mach I]

Originally posted by Dennis Kelley


You may not need a intake it you find out what the Air fuel ratio is at. I picked up 51 hp on timing alone. Was the dyno done with a wide band o2 sensor. Just use the dyno to tune don't get hung up on the numbers. An air gap is an excellant mainifold though. An automatic tranny eats some more hp than a manual. I'd shot for an air fuel ratio of 13 to 1. the dyno is great for tuning

later Dennis

The only number that counts for me is the time after 1320 feet. I don't care if my rwhp on a dynojet says 500 hp but I do the 1/4 in 14 flat. BFD!!! But what I do know is that I cannot throw my hands up and say that where I am is as good as it is going to get. Otherwise, my 1/4 times will be disappointing. I have seen inferior builds make 25 rwhp more than mine. As for my torque numbers, I will take them! I just know that I should be getting more hp at the rear wheels.

What I do know is that I have plugs that are a touch too hot for 11:1 cr. I have autolites 3924s good up to 10.5:1) and I need autolite 3923s, one heat range colder for my CR. Also, the plugs have not yet been gapped. I understand that can make a difference.

[trularin]

You sound awfully iritated for someone that did his own engineering.

I suggest one change at a time and see what you get before a blitz attack that leaves you no better than you were.

Dennis made a good point, Maybe some tuning before a purchase may be in order.

Just my $0.02

[69 Mach I]

Originally posted by trularin


You sound awfully iritated for someone that did his own engineering.

I suggest one change at a time and see what you get before a blitz attack that leaves you no better than you were.

Dennis made a good point, Maybe some tuning before a purchase may be in order.

Just my $0.02

I didn't do any of my own engineering. Rather, I went by the recommendations of a shop that built the car for me. I was told to expect at least 351 rwhp and am currently getting 293. I am now being told by the current dyno tuner that this is as good as I can expect. However, like I said, I have seen inferior builds make 30 rwhp more than what I have now and I don't want them to just call it quits when I know there is more power in that engine.

[Cashburn]

high compression.. old tech. what is your goal? financially and out the tires?

[cleggy]

Lets see, you don't know what the timing is, your not sure of the jetting, and the plugs are not gapped. Using the tried and true K.I.S.S method, gap the plugs, and assuming you have degree marks on the flywheel, set the timing to full advance, then check at idle. You may have to adjust the curve amount and speed it comes in. Once this is done, you can start on your A/F mixture, you may want to stay with a 650 cfm carb, maybe try a Speed Demon.