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Oil Filter
In searching the forum for oil filter recommendation, I see Motorcraft FL1-HP seems to be the most popular choice. but, this is a Transmission Filter? Or did I lookup the wrong filter?
SPO2561 Roush 427R |
FL1-HP is the performance version of the standard FL1A oil filter.
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I like the mobile 1 but to be honest there are a lot of really good filters out there. Most people on here change their oil quite often, well below the 5k mark for normal cars. Just stay away from the Frams. That magnet that attaches to the filter is also becoming popular.
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http://forums.vintage-mustang.com/sh.../fromsearch/1/ Z. Ray |
I am a huge WIX fan -- you can geek out about specs on their site.
Mobil1 filters can departiculate with the best, but i have problems finding a reliable source and stable pricing for them. Steve |
Instead of paying more money for the HP version of the Motorcraft filter, I just put (4) 1/2" rare earth magnets around the standard filter. Rare earth magnets are so strong they could pinch your fingers if you're not careful.
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During warm weather I use the Mobil1 filter which is rated 9 microns. During the cold months I use a Moroso racing filter which is rated 21 microns. 5W-30 synthetic all the time, I'm more of a flow guy than pressure guy.
Bob |
Flow stays the same either way. You oil pump is a positive displacement gear pump, it could care less what the temp is, it pumps the same amount at the same rpm every single time. If the oil is thicker the pressure goes up but the volume of oil remains the same.
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Hey MM:
My thinking is that I would prefer the oil flow through the engine not the pressure relief valve. When I got my car it was running 20W-50, the pressure was routinely in the 40 range. I changed to 5W-30 and now I run around 60PSI. Bob |
That is why the motorcraft fL-1hp is what you want to use it bypasses at 22 psig where standard is 11 psig across filter. I run 65 psig cold with 10w30 and when warms usually 48 psig?
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both are 20 microns
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There are clearances between the sides of the gears and the housing. Some oil is slipping through those gaps (both sides of the gears). Although the volume of oil that the teeth forward is constant, what slips back through the pump is not, and therefore the ouput of the pump at a given rpm will vary with pressure. Imperically I have found that the effeciency drops off by a factor of the delta pressure squared, when the suction side of the pump has adaquate head pressure to completely fill the teeth. With an oil pump in an engine there is no head pressure, and the pump must suck the oil up out of the pan. Although I have no experiance with thiis, it would seem to me that with vacuum there could be voids or little bubbles with nothing in them. If so, then the density of the oil could vary, further reducing flow. Imperical proof, put 50 wt oil in a modern overhead cam engine on a cold day and you will ruin the engine, because it will take too long to pump oil up to the cam. Flow is not constant regardless of pressure. |
Ok, so in REALITY, not Theoretical, your pump is 97% efficient. The other three percent and I seriously dounbt it is that large doesn't matter. Changing the weight of oil in my opinion, plant engineer for 16 years, you would not be able measure the difference without a micro motion meter.
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Madmaxx you may be right about the effeciency change being negligable. I never worked with auto oil pumps. My experiance is with very large, high pressure pumps. I have seen them drop as low as 40%. It all depends on the clearances and viscosity. Smaller pumps do have less losses.
I think I made the wrong arguement. When the oil pressure in an engine reaches the limit on the prv built into the pump, the prv lifts and oil flows back into the pan or the suction side of the pump rather than through the engine. If the prv is set at 60 psi, then when the resistence to flow through the engine reaches 60 psi the flow is diverted through the prv (ususally internal to the pump). Therefore increasing viscosity of the oil will reduce flow to the bearings if the pressue reaches the prv setting. I have seen people shim the prv spring to get 100 psi on an engine that would normally only run 60 psi cold. I'm pretty sure that most engines lift the prv when cold even with light oils, as the oil pressure stays steady when you rev the engine. |
I agree if the prv lifts then you will short circuit. In most auto applications I beleive the oil pump prv is set at 80 psig. Motorcraft oil filter housing is good to 250 psig. In the winter I can easily get mine up to 70 psig. Had a vet once that would hit 90 psig in the winter. The pressure in your crankbearing due to the hydraulic oil wedge is 1000's of psig.
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I'm sure different engines and pumps have different prv setpoints. I know my 5.0/347 oil pressure holds steady at 60 psi at idle cold and drops to 40 psi hot. I have never seen it go above 60 psi hot or cold at any rpm. The pressure is proportional to rpm until it hits 60 psi. I would guess that the prv is higher than 60 psi since the oil pressure sending unit is a fair ways down stream of the pump, but I am fairly certain that the prv is limitting the pressure. I have ran both 10w-30w and 10w-40w. The 10w-30w was more like 50 psi at a cold idle. I have thought about going back to the lighter oil to take load off the distributor gear, but I like the heavier oil for the cast pistons.
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