Won't Start - Help

[nine64]

My SPF 2499 is stranded and I cannot get any power to anything yet the battery is charged. I have jumpered the battery compartment switch, so the only remaining switch that I am aware of is in the tranny assuring it is out of gear before the starter will engage. Has anyone had a problem with that and knows what to do about it? I don't understand why that switch would preclude power to the accessories, as I thought it was merely for the starter.

So it may be a main fuse of some sort. My manual says there is one, but I sure don't see it where the picture states it should be in the fuse box.

This was a 2007 build at Snakepower before they went under. Also, if anyone knows a place in Chicago area (western suburbs preferred) that they would recommend, I may need to take it somewhere if I cannot get it sorted out.

Thank goodness for some clear weather for a few days until I can fix or retrieve it!!

I would appreciate anyone's help on this.

[Jim Kellogg]

Check the negative battery to ground cable for a good connection. Try pulling on both ends of the negative battery cable at the battery box. I once found a bad connection at the negative battery cable to frame on 887. Lost all power, but fortunately was only one block from home!

I pulled the negative cable, and made a new end for the battery to frame connection.

Give it a try, and let us know how you make out with it.
Jim Kellogg
Elmira, NY

[VintageUpgrades]

If the battery is charged and none of the switches work, the battery ground would be my first suspect.

[Zoom This]

Along with checking the neg ground cable, make sure the engine to frame cable is on and tight. Mine on #1735 runs from the bellhousing passenger side to the frame.

[Don Barnes]

Post your question on SCOF website or check their technical library. Thx, db #2723

[LRRCobradreamer]

Does SPF have a battery cut off switch??? Could it be in-between the contacts accidentally knocked??

Lee

[r67cat]

As Jim suggested, the lug on the battery ground cable that attaches to the frame can look OK but if it is cracked will give you the exact symptoms you describe. Peel back the carpet a little to the rear of the battery box and you can see the lug. My car did the same thing last summer though the lug appeared to be intact, a pull revealed that it had cracked clean through. That is why a jumper cable on the battery does not start the car. I put a new lug on and problem solved. Rick

[nine64]

Thanks everyone for a lot of good advice. I will give the grounds a thorough going over today and will advise what I find. Sounds like that must be the issue. I found the engine to frame ground yesterday, but not the battery to ground. So that is the most likely culprit for today!!

Paul

[Jerry Clayton]

Paul

It would of helped to know how to contact you or where the car was/is so someone could come help you

Jerry

[JOSEPH M CORBY]

nine 64
I am sure the suggestions you already received should lead you to solving your starting issue. But, the next area I might look at would be the infamous "Prince of Darkness" ignition switch. These original style cobra switches have been known to fail. If not now, it will, and should be replaced with a heavy-duty ignition switch offered by "Cobra Valley" and it may be a good idea to consider joining the SCOF group. The information available to you as a Superformance owner can only help you in times like this. Hope you already got the help you needed.
Joe/and the "Mistress" SPS1425

[RodgerH]

Originally Posted by nine64

I found the engine to frame ground yesterday, but not the battery to ground.
Paul

Paul,

Your battery is grounded to a post welded on top of the frame about 4" behind the battery box. Pull the carpet loose ( it is attached with upholstery adhesive) and you will see it. Mine is attached with a metric socket head bolt; you will need a 6mm allen wrench. The factory uses a star washer between the cable lug and the chassis to cut through the chassis paint. This doesn't give you the best contact. Scrap the paint from the top of the welded post (where the cable attaches) so you will have good contact.

The 80A main power fuse is located in the bottom of the dropdown fuse panel above the driver's left leg. It looks like this:
http://www.cooperbussmann.com/images...79a3da63ec.JPG

I doubt you have blown the main 80A fuse. With the battery disconnect switch on, use a dc voltmeter to check voltage between ground and the large right post on the starter solenoid on the firewall (the large red cable from the battery should be connected here). If you have power here, check voltage between ground and the right main fuse terminal (this will be power going to the fuse). Then check between ground and the left main fuse terminal. If you have power here, you should have power to the headlights and horn without the ignition switch turned on.

Rodger

[Blas]

We got it covered.
It appears to be the main feed wire from the starter solenoids "HOT" side to the live post om the fuse panel. That wire is the main feed to the cars entire electrical system...thus no power in the car...
Paul is in the process of running a new feed wire...to get it home.
Great collective effort...

[PANAVIA]

Good Job !

Steve

[nine64]

It was a hot one yesterday, but after a much better game plan with everyone's help, a couple new jackstands and creeper, I managed to get the whole car off the ground and inspect all of the wiring from battery to starter. I could see just a portion of the starter to main fuse terminal run that Blas refers to and that looked OK, but clearly it was not delivering any power whatsoever. So I ran a new wire from the starter connection to the main fuse box terminal and voila, a fully functional automobile again. Now to sort out the real reason for the problem and get the ammeter working again, something fun to do in the garage over the coming weeks when it cools off a bit.

I really appreciate everyone's help, and that the rain held off until today!! A special thanks to Blas who put up with my phone calls Sunday!!

[Blas]

Happy to help...
"Get the AMP meter working again" - Tell me more....I don't believe you mentioned that yesterday....You said the 2 connections on the AMP meter looked ok?