bypass hose
 

Does anybody run a bypass hose with the superformance ( 351w) set up...? doesn't look like theres room for a fitting, car has been plumbed with out, I have had no issues, just curious, maybee you could post a pic.

If you have a thermostat, you should have the bypass hose. With the thermostat closed, the bypass hose pushes water back to the water pump. That keeps the water flowing through the block and heads, so it can all warm up evenly, without hot spots in the heads.

Ok so what about the heater hose loop to the heater core back to the water pump,if the heater control valve is open? isn't that the same thing? are both those ports suction on the water pump?

If you do not have the bypass hose, you should definetly have some holes drilled in your thermostat to let some water circulate thru the system till in reaches operating temp and the thermostat opens.....

David

I've been dealing with the bypass alternate solutions with my current engine upgrade. Send me your phone number and I'll call this evening to discuss and possibly send you some pics. Perry

Yes, that will do about the same thing. But it tends to slow down the warm up process.

That's what I thought, and that's why it was plumbed that way, theres a 1 3/4'' spacer,then the thermostat housing that blocks where the bypass hose connects.

http://i7.photobucket.com/albums/y30...h/P1000439.jpg

The culprit here is the aftermarket water pump. I went through the same thing as I had an Edelbrock water pump installed on my new KCR motor. I wanted the pump with the pipe thread barbs so I could use a 'U' shaped bypass hose as I've seen on a local Cobra. I have the same aluminum spacer between the intake and thermostat housing for your expansion tank to mount. It seems the location of the barbs on the aftermarket water pump compared to an original water pump (mine from the previous motor came off a 1990 Crown Vic 302 motor) are slightly rotated clockwise in a manner it puts the barb directly under the thermostat housing so a hose could not be installed. I put my original water pump on and plumbed the way the motor was previously. If you want to retain the water pump on your motor then you more than likely will need to replace the expansion tank with one that has a thin mounting plate that goes between the intake and thermostat housing. I believe it is a billet piece. I haven't researched who sells these but I have seen a few on local Cobras. This is what I will be doing in the future because currently I use a 'S' shaped bypass hose that hangs over the belt. Using the other expansion tank and getting rid of the aluminum spacer you can use a 'L' shaped bypass hose. There are other ways to plumb your hoses as seen on Craigs Cobras but you will still have the problem with the barb and thermostat housing. It bites but somethings got to give. I've got pictures to share but can not figure out how to attach.

I saw one similar to this that used a brass fitting. A square block with 2 male threaded pieces 90 degrees apart. Had to remove the thermostat housing to install it - almost flush to the water pump...polished it up, put a hose on the other end, and it looked great.... A 45 degree piece might work too...

I agree with Blas that a 45 degree fitting could solve your problem. My bypass hose attaches the thermostat barb with the lower barb of the water pump requiring the use of the 'S' shaped hose. You may be going to run the hoses per Craigs Cobras.

we used a 90 degree polished fitting on the WP and a straight 5/8 fitting on the housing with a U shaped hose ( generic )

Panavia...What water pump did you use to do the arrangement you describe? I had KCR put an Edelbrock water pump with npt barbs so I could do as you suggest and have seen on another Cobra. The problem in my situation and the reason for this thred is the barbs are rotated ever so slightly clockwise from my stock water pump that the upper hose to the water pump would not slip onto the barb because conflict with the thermostat housing. I have the same aluminum spacer between the intake and thermostat housing as seen in this post. If you can could you post a picture? Thanks

That's a weiand water pump in the picture, so you can rule that one out also. I up-graded my thermostat housing to the roush billet one and there is a little more room for a fitting , but I'm going to run it the way it is, It's actually running cooler with the new stat, and reduced anti-frezz ratio, stays right at 80-85c.

My motor temperature is fine with the stock pump. Just would like to get rid of the 's' shaped hose one day. Probably next winter project as I plan on making up the lack of miles put on her last year!

For the "S" shaped, I was able to use a hose - precast - off of a Ford Taurus. Spent some time in the junk yard looking before I found it.

Just my $.02 worth.

it was what came on the customers ROUSHNISHI motor which I think is Edelbroke.

Roush uses weiland (holley) and a brass 90 will fit for the recirc line.

The installer set up my Roush without a bypass possibly because the Cobra was to be used in hot climate. I bought the Cobra to a cold climate and installed the bypass to the heater. It was a tight fit, but I got it to work. They have fittings around that work. Roush says to always put in a bypass hose.

WardL, can you take a picture of your set up when you get a chance? thanks

I looked at my buddies Superformance today and now have the solution to my situation and possibly others. Took a few pics but have difficulty posting. Basically the upper barb on the water pump using a 90 degree npt goes to the barb of the thermostat housing using a 'U' shaped hose. The hose from the valve goes to the intake barb and the remaining heater hose goes to the lower barb of the water pump.