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Help With SPF Dash Removal
Good Evening,
I recently purchased a used SPF car that needs a little TLC. I need to drop the dash enough to work on a couple of gauges and clean up a couple of things that were done by the previous owner. I was hoping to tap into the braintrust of this forum before I go tearing into the dash. I only see three attachment points for the dash but it appears that the drivers side can not be lowered as the steering colum is tight against the top of the opening in the dash. Are there any tricks you guys know of to dropping the dash to gain access to the back side ? Appreciate any input. Thank you. Ted |
Feel free to drop me an email with your contact info. I'll be happy to help you out. Replacing a gauge does not necessarily require removing the dash. Depending on the year of the chassis, you might be better off not removing it.... My contact info is below. Or just PM me here offline.
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Removing seats will make rear panel access much easier.
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I agree with Blas, you may not have to remove the dash. I have done work on mine including replacing the fuel sensing line. If by any chance you have a glove box, removing it really helps and it was an easy remove.
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Try to find a ASE trained capuchan service monkey, because there ain't much room back there. :JEKYLHYDE :LOL:
I've replaced a gauge and routed a new oil pressure line...fun stuff. |
Remove the tach and/or the speedo (both easier to get to) and you'll be amazed how much room you have to work with through those holes. I have gorilla hands, too, so if I can do it anyone can. It's tight under there but doable. Pull the steering wheel and the seats if you must (to contort easier). Pulling the dash is a PITA.
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Gentlemen,
Thanks to all who replied. I worked on it a little today but didn't pull the spedo/tach/glovebox yet. I will try that sometime this week. It sounds like that should make replacement of the oil pressure gauge a little easier. I appreciate all the help. Ted |
I just did my water temp and speedo gauges the other day and it was pretty straightforward, and I did not have to remove the dash. The gauges are held in with thumb screws on the brackets...so if you can get your hand up there they come out pretty quickly. I think both gauges took about 30 minutes to install, including fishing the sensor end through the firewall for the temp gauge.
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I replaced the nylon oil line with a braided one last year. Removal of the speedo provides more access room and makes the job much easier.
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Hey Ted,
If you scare or become overwhelmed easily this is not a job you want to tackle!! I have done this many times, It is doable but it is a full blow pain IN THE BUTT! Yes there are three carriage bolts on the face of the dash and two trans tunnel struts. You will also have to remove the steering wheel and turn signal housing. Be aware, some of the wires are not long enough to remove the dash and stay connected, so you will need to be able to decipher what has happened! The end bolt are not terrible, the center bolt it difficult. Like Mr. Academic stated, the best option it to remove the speedo, and two end gauges so you have some room to work. Also you will need to flex the dash quite a bit to get it in and out. I found it best to put the drivers side in first, then the passenger. Flexing the driver side too much can crack the fiberglass. http://www.clubcobra.com/photopost/d...ut_small_2.jpg |
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Well, I wouldn't say I scare easily for this type of job, but I don't hate myself either :LOL: I think your description of the task and your picture is enough to convince me that I certainly should attempt the job via gauge and glove box removal first. Thanks a lot for taking the time to give a good description of the work and the photo. Ted |
Radiator cap ?
Hi Guys what the pressure on stock cap for a Superformance car with a 402 CID.
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13# would be the starting point.
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