Newest Problem

tortuga · #1 (**permalink**) 10-25-2015, 10:09 PM

Screwy handling was a result of the passenger side rear wheel being loose; wheel bearing at 7k miles...Also noticed both rear wheels are coated in grease inside the rims...Guess I'll be doing both.

Also need to figure out the apparent defect in the way the bearings are mounted which results in them throwing grease and failing at 7k miles...

Hardest part seems to be figuring out all the parts and how to modify them to work together and hopefully cure whats causing them to fail.

Hub is a 99-04 mustang cobra, bearing is the same, with a super coupe nut.

LMH · #2 (**permalink**) 10-26-2015, 08:20 AM

My Hurricane has the same hub/bearing. When the hub is pressed into the new bearing, you have to be careful to make sure the inner race is pressed tight. Otherwise, it can separate slightly and wobble in short order.
Did that make any sense?

Just make sure the inner race is pressed or held in place while the hub is pressed in.
Larry

keezling · #3 (**permalink**) 10-26-2015, 10:16 AM

Axle nut backed off. Common problem. 250fp torque + locktite will fix it.

tortuga · #4 (**permalink**) 10-26-2015, 05:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by keezling

Axle nut backed off. Common problem. 250fp torque + locktite will fix it.

And the bearing/hub would survive? In my mind's eye i think it would be shot...

Sawdust · #5 (**permalink**) 10-27-2015, 03:51 AM

I recently re-torqued my rear axle nuts to 250ft lbs + locktite, no problems since

Mark IV · #6 (**permalink**) 10-27-2015, 04:01 AM

Chassis number? It is possible that you have a hub that is machined in way that prevents the axle from fully seating in the hub recess. The solution is minor machine work on the radius of the hub. A change by the axle supplier in the radius on the axle caused the issue, the factory was unaware of the concern until the cars got some miles on them and the problem occurred.

Let me know the chassis number and I can send you the factory prints that show what work is required.

When this issue is present no amount of torque on the axle nut will prevent the issue. If you jack up the rear and grab the tire at 12 and 6 can you wiggle it up and down?

Mark IV · #7 (**permalink**) 10-27-2015, 07:11 PM

Issue must have fixed itself!

Why do people post asking for help and then disappear?

DWRAT · #8 (**permalink**) 10-27-2015, 09:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark IV

Issue must have fixed itself!

Why do people post asking for help and then disappear?

I quit trying to help Tortuga because he rarely replies to even say thanks.

Exhibit #1 Touch up paint source?

tortuga · #9 (**permalink**) 10-30-2015, 12:34 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DWRAT

I quit trying to help Tortuga because he rarely replies to even say thanks.

Exhibit #1 Touch up paint source?

Sorry but i have a life outside of the stupid car...Didn't know I had to kneel before you people and kiss your rings.

I sourced the parts and will be attacking it soon.

If your delicate ego needs reinforcement any time you impart a bit of knowledge, then yes, please refrain from responding to my statements, (look closely and you will see no question marks...)

I respond all the time on auto, sailing, climbing, and professional chat boards and am perfectly fine when people either choose to respond or not...Even when i take 20 minutes to explain something in detail.

Post a link to amazon touch up ? what a minute of your life? And yes i did order and use it, thank you for the advice.

But of course like i always say arguing on the internet is like running in the special Olympics, even if you win you are still retarded...

RockBit · #10 (**permalink**) 11-07-2015, 02:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark IV

Chassis number? It is possible that you have a hub that is machined in way that prevents the axle from fully seating in the hub recess. The solution is minor machine work on the radius of the hub. A change by the axle supplier in the radius on the axle caused the issue, the factory was unaware of the concern until the cars got some miles on them and the problem occurred.

Let me know the chassis number and I can send you the factory prints that show what work is required.

When this issue is present no amount of torque on the axle nut will prevent the issue. If you jack up the rear and grab the tire at 12 and 6 can you wiggle it up and down?

Seems like Superformance should have contacted owners of the affected cars when they discovered the issue, and supplied the necessary fix, instead of the owners having a failure and then having to pay to fix it.

CWizard · #11 (**permalink**) 11-08-2015, 08:42 PM

Tortuga --
Did you have to make any mods to the M-1109-A hub or the rotor to get everything to fit properly? Others (like in the thread you referenced) have had to open the center hole in the rotor and/or mill down the flange on the hub to get it to fit, and the studs had to be shortened. Any of that apply to your fix?
Thanks!
And extra thanks for listing the part numbers you used. Very helpful.
Jerry

jcam · #12 (**permalink**) 11-09-2015, 08:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Mark IV

Chassis number? It is possible that you have a hub that is machined in way that prevents the axle from fully seating in the hub recess. The solution is minor machine work on the radius of the hub. A change by the axle supplier in the radius on the axle caused the issue, the factory was unaware of the concern until the cars got some miles on them and the problem occurred.

Let me know the chassis number and I can send you the factory prints that show what work is required.

When this issue is present no amount of torque on the axle nut will prevent the issue. If you jack up the rear and grab the tire at 12 and 6 can you wiggle it up and down?

Mark,

What chassis numbers were affected by this issue?

Thanks,
Jamie

tortuga · #13 (**permalink**) 11-02-2015, 01:09 PM

Sorry All, I wish to issue a public apology for my attitude last week...I was had a VERY Crummy week and sort of let it spill over here. I will in the future monitor my threads when i post one to acknowledge other's efforts at lending a hand, and refrain from off color comments that could strike a painful chord with some.

Dimis · #14 (**permalink**) 11-02-2015, 07:43 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by tortuga

Sorry All, I wish to issue a public apology for my attitude last week...I was had a VERY Crummy week and sort of let it spill over here. I will in the future monitor my threads when i post one to acknowledge other's efforts at lending a hand, and refrain from off color comments that could strike a painful chord with some.

I hope things improve for you

PS: Mighty big of you to step up too. Thanks

Best wishes

tortuga · #15 (**permalink**) 11-07-2015, 12:09 PM

Notes:
Used heat to remove stubborn old axle nut & Pin drive cylinders, screwdriver in vent slots in rotor to hold wheel when breaking loose or torquing nut(s), Need to swap out or cutoff studs to fit pin drive cylinders on new hub, Need a machine shop to press out bearing, Torque inner nut 275-ft-lb outer nut to 150 ft-lb; used locktite red in addition. Tools, drift to push out lower control arm rod, 36MM deep socket, 300 Ft-Lb torque wrench, torch, common tools, jack, jackstands...

Hub & Bearing:

Parts

1) Hubs FMS-M-1109-A IRS Hub, 5 x 4.5 in. Bolt Circle, 2.775 in. Wheel Pilot Hub, Each
(Mfr. #: M-1109-A) 1

2) Ford Performance Racing Parts M-1215-A - Ford Racing Axle Bearings
FMS-M-1215-A IRS Bearing, For use with kit car IRS hub, FMS-M-1109-A, Each
(Mfr. #: M-1215-A)

3) Hub-Nuts-1 A auto 1AAX00081 23.95 ea (2 per side)

If your bearing is spun like mine was you WILL need a new hub...

The procedure is discussed at length here:

SPF rear wheel bearing removal help...