SPF steering wheel, updates on refreshing

[saki302]

Had a quick question for you guys-

Will this Finish line wheel work on our superformance cars?
https://www.finishlineaccessories.co...el-6-bolt.aspx

Looking for a leather wheel I can run sometimes. The wood looks cool, but feels tiny in my hands. I'm looking for something meatier.


As for the car-

After driving it home the first day, it didn't get driven for a month while I went through it. Randall at CV was a huge help, as was joining SCOF.

I ended up replacing:

All 4 CV boots- one had a tear, the others looked like they were going 'crispy'
Both rear upper heims with RT parts
QA1 shocks from Jim Vanderwal

Almost got used sways, but ended up getting new ones from RT to get the adjustable fronts and new mount setup


Engine oil, trans oil, rear end oil- done to make me feel better. Trans and rear end oil came out looking fine.
New spark plugs, and 'custom' K&N filter (I hand pounded the funnel base until it dropped down!)

Re-adjusted the carburetor idle screws, floats, etc.

brake and clutch fluid will be next, but it looks pretty clear, must be recent.

Went through the SCOF tech articles- added greasable fittings to the rear, carpet snaps, rollbar bolt, diff drain plug, etc. The quick, fun and cheap stuff!

I also cleaned a decade worth of grime from under the car. That was fun- took hours.


The old valve cover gaskets were weeping on the passenger side. I replaced with fel-pro cork, which still leaked. Switching to Moroso sealed them for good (UV dye trace). Swapped the breather and PCV while I was at it.

After the work, it felt like a different car. The tendency of the rear to slide out went away, and the motor felt MUCH more crisp and responsive. Still needs a few moments to warm up because of the 4150 competition carb (no choke or idle up).


The old Indy 500 tires were scary- I saved up for Avons, and love them- feels like a different car. I can use full throttle

I added shoulder belts and an Acton headrest too- the protruding rollbar bolt is in the perfect spot to kill me. Also added a kill switch like my old FFR had. I've never crimped a battery cable so thick- had to buy a hammer crimp tool for it.


The last couple things to do- RT told me about Kable-ease to help the jumping speedo needle. It helped some- my speedo still wavers +/- 3-5mph, but I can tell how fast I'm going now. I did buy a new speedo cable, but won't bother putting it on yet. Maybe in summer when it's too hot to drive. Old cable is probably just worn (38K miles).


I got all the minor oil leaks except two at the trans. There's a tiny weep at the rear output seal- not even enough to drip after a drive, but I can see a drop forming at the seal. And a leak at the front- enough for a couple drops after a spirited drive. I'm assuming it's one of those infamous TKO600 case seal leaks. TBH I can't be bothered to pull the trans for something so minor. I bought a drip rug for the garage for 10 bucks. My old FFR cobra had a rear seal leak on its TKO600, which I replaced. Seems like these things like to sweat..



I'm looking forward to driving this more now- so far the kids love it (except for the full throttle noise!).


It looks and feels like a totally different car. Just needed some elbow grease and love Someday I'll do the RT ball joints- I can't see how it'll handle better than it is- looking forward to it!

I'm going to leave the paint alone (stone chips), just touched up. Then I can drive it without worry!


-Dave

[saki302]

Old vs new rear suspension and CVs, old engine bay, and interior shot.

[saki302]

Avons installed, and son enjoying a ride

BTW- that tiny sticker above the exhaust is a squid that says 'I'll burn you' in Japanese. I thought it was perfect!

[tortuga]

I’ve got a leather wheel off of my spf if you’re interested in one...Mona lita

Steve H
1764

[209]

nice signature!!

[saki302]

Sent you a PM Steve ��

The previous owner got the signature, comes with a certificate and all. Apparently it's the real one, not the autopen (less than 3 tick marks).
I'm too cheap to pay for something like that �� I'd have had him sign it on the inside too. I've seen it done and it looks cool- there when you want it, gone when you don't.

The wind up clock is from an old MIG fighter jet- I love old planes. It's like the car was made for me to buy it ��

[Varmit]

Are you planning on make the SCOF run into Canada and New England next month. If not you should plan on attending some of the SCOF runs they are OUTSTANDING

[Jim Vander Wal]

Dave,
Good to hear that your car is coming together. The little stuff can make a huge difference.
As Varmit mentioned SCOF events are worth every penny. RT puts on a great show.
Enjoy and drive the snot out of it.
Jim, formerly 1855 & 2584 and now FFR 8885

[jacobsed]

Nice ride Dave! Can you tell us about the CV boot replacement? What was involved and how did you do it? Thanks.

[vntgspd]

Car looks great! Congrats!

I have a NIB steering wheel from Finish line if you are interested. $100 shipped.
It's a nice wheel but I would expect the Motolita to be a tad nicer.

[jacobsed]

I highly recommend RT's ball joints. After you get some miles on your car and notice a shake in the steering wheel at different speeds RT's ball joints will fix that. It did for myself and others at least.

[saki302]

I have two small kids, so no long distance runs for me in the near future. If there were one in CA, I'd be tempted

The CV boot replacement was pretty straightforward. I followed the SCOF tech instructions on removing the entire unit- I left it attached to the hub and pulled the whole thing as one piece. The inside shaft just pops out if you pry it on the Ford 8.8 rear.

Once the hub/CV is off the car, when you remove the inner boot clamps, the inside cup just pulls right off.

The 'Y' bearing yoke-thing hammers off the end of the shaft- I used a brass punch. There's a clip holding it on, you just hammer around the base evenly to nudge it off. Once the Y is off, you can pull the outer CV boot and leave the parts at the hub end intact.
Cleaning all the grease out is.. 'fun'.

You want a GOOD CV clamp tool. I think I used a Lisle. The outer big clamp will rub on the hub unless you clamp it tight and flat.